I am installing a 200a Square D SCED 30-42 and the bottom has a factory hub mount location and the top only knock outs. I used a brand A200 hub and drilled/tapped to attach the hub for SE conduit. However, there is a 1/4" gap between the case and the bottom of the hub. I sanded/filed it baby bottom smooth but wonder if I will get called on it by inspector. I have a watertight 2" hub to install if its decided it won't fly but it looks pro now and "workmanship" like all day. Any input or experience with this in Orange County Ca would be especially helpful.
Square D 30/42 CSED OH SE hub requirements.
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Are you talking about a Square D CSED SC3042M200PF ?
If so that is a 'semi flush' loadcenter and does not use any hubs.
It is that loadcenter, and semi-flush. So I should remove the tapped hub and replace it with a meyers hub and put the screws into the holes correct? I will just replace the screws to fill the holes and that should be golden... without having to buy a new load center? Thanks for the reply, just thinking myself into a pickle.
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
IMO it sounds like you've pieced together an installation that is not code compliant. Are you mounting a 3R enclosure upside down that's why the existing hub is on the bottom? Is this in a wet location? Sounds like you should not have used the hub with the 4 mounting holes as they typically go over a raised flange to keep the water out.
It is a semi flush panel w/flange, specs call for OH or UG and it is to be mounted correctly orientated. It has a factory AL hub location AT BOTTOM and just knockouts at top but me wanting that cool hub connection tapped in some screws to attach a 2" hub at top that fit BEHIND THE FLANGE instead of just knocking out the size for a Meyers hub and using it. My only problem is that between the hub and the panel is a small gap, I filed the case smooth so there will be no risk to the SER. A local sparky with experience with local inspectors (I usually work in another county) says its all good w/hub but wanted to hear what the heads here had to say as well.
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- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
Can you post some photos?
That panel is not listed for use with any hubs.
See the drawing:
Your SER cable is behind the vapor barrier behind the flange.
To bring in the SER cable you simply need a two screw connector.
See the drawing:
Your SER cable is behind the vapor barrier behind the flange.
To bring in the SER cable you simply need a two screw connector.
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I need the 2" mast since I am doing overhead SE. Most of the service mains here are mounted semi-flush in stucco here, usually w/OH service drops.
- Location
- Wisconsin
- Occupation
- PE (Retired) - Power Systems
Isn't that provisions for a hub on the bottom below the 'tunnel' kit mounting area? I see four screw holes.
I don't see top provisions from the factory, but why couldn't one be field added behind the drip flange? A hub is not needed as it is behind the finish, but I don't see it being prohibited, subject to the AHJ.
EXACTLY what I did.
ALWAYS
This is because the factory hub locations have that lip stamped into the metal that mates with the hub. I would undo this (actually I would take it as a $200 lesson and replace the panel so as to not leave my customer with a butchered panel) and use a meyers hub if needed, or conduit and locknuts if not.
I am not above getting a new panel at all. That said, the bottom hub location calls for an AL hub which is slightly different with a base plate added but the gap will remain in any case. This unit does not have the stamped section. It is a perfect panel for the customer and they will not mind a few screws at the top to fill where I tapped but if it comes to that I will just change it out.
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- Location
- Wisconsin
- Occupation
- PE (Retired) - Power Systems
Why are you using a hub at all, and not a more simple connector?
That entrance plate is not weathertite so your conduit connection does need to be either.
That entrance plate is not weathertite so your conduit connection does need to be either.
I thought it would be easier to mate up with the mast going through the header. And truthfully, since I do mostly res HVAC and work was slow I got bored and just thought myself into this pickle and broke out the tap kit. Might have turned into a costly time kill though. My ground electrode gets inspected tomorrow so will see what he says when he is here but if it was an auto fail I would just get a replacement today.
The A-L hub, if you look at that plate that is part of it, the plate has an edge formed to sit tight against the panel = no gap. Another (easily fixed) potential issue is, I don't know what diameter bolt you use with your hub but do you have enough thread engagement? Don't the factory hub locations have formed holes that are deeper than the thickness of the sheetmetal?
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
That sure sounds upside-down to me. Which way does the door open? Could the interior be inverted?
- Location
- Wisconsin
- Occupation
- PE (Retired) - Power Systems
The referenced drawings in post #7 clearly shows (4) factory provided mounting holes for a hub.