What height do you drill studs for new construction romex

[danickstr]

Just wondered if anyone has put thought into it. I typically go at 18" - 2' out of habit.

 

[ActionDave]

Same height as the middle of my thigh as I walk down the wall holding the drill.

 

[ultramegabob]

Same height as the middle of my thigh as I walk down the wall holding the drill.

I did the same, usually resting it on top of the knife in my pocket to keep it from sliding down.

 

[mjf]

perfect height

perfect height

Just like the others have said..... No tape measure and no chalk line. I just hold the drill where its comfortable and go. holes end up perfect height... don't have to crouch to pull wires and turn up for switches and down for recepticals.

 

[Rewire]

I used a milwakee bit extender for years ,you could drill top plates standing on the floor

 

[ItsHot]

No set height, just what is comfartable to drill at. I like boring with my 24 volt Dewalt and a wood auger that is a Irwin brand that I get at the Lowes stores. It is 3 times faster than anything I have ever used!

 

[TOOL_5150]

Somewhere between 30" - 36" Not joking - its a good way to keep people from nailing in the 'wire zone'

~Matt

 

[electricmanscott]

This is like asking "what is you favorite color" or "colour" for you Brits.

The only thing that comes to mind with the question asked is kitchen or other cabinetry. Just beware of where you are running your cables. I learned the hard way. Those screws are pretty long.


Oh yeah.....BLUE:smile:

 

[brantmacga]

30"-36"
.

 

[roger3829]

I don't drill holes....... that's what an apprentice is for.:smile:

 

[electricalperson]

i was taught to drill them about 5 feet off the ground so they can slide sheetrock through the studs if they have too. just the way i was taught in trade school

 

[electricmanscott]

i was taught to drill them about 5 feet off the ground so they can slide sheetrock through the studs if they have too. just the way i was taught in trade school

And then they can bury your boxes faster. :grin:

 

[360Youth]

I don't usually post answers that have already been given but this time I will for two reasons:

1..that I can say I stayed on topic with my answer that I drill my holes thigh-high as most everyone else has said, with the exception that I will sometimes go high or low so that I can maintain wires entering a box from the same direction. (I am a little funny that way :grin

and 2...By staying somewhat on topic, I can respond to scott with one of the great movies of all time

This is like asking "what is you favorite color" or "colour" for you Brits.

The only thing that comes to mind with the question asked is kitchen or other cabinetry. Just beware of where you are running your cables. I learned the hard way. Those screws are pretty long.


Oh yeah.....BLUE:smile:

 

[peter d]

New homes? Is anyone even building those anymore?

 

[electricalperson]

sometimes i dont even go through the studs unless theres a box 1 or 2 bays over

 

[LarryFine]

Just wondered if anyone has put thought into it. I typically go at 18" - 2' out of habit.

Same height as the middle of my thigh as I walk down the wall holding the drill.

Same here, and I usually work 'forward,' lining the drill up with the hole I just made, so the holes are more in line.

 

[LarryFine]

I used a milwakee bit extender for years ,you could drill top plates standing on the floor

I have one, too, and love it. I almost look for a reason to clamp it on the drill. It's great for horizontal boring overhead, too, as well as drilling bottom plates, too.

In fact, with a 6"-long auger, it's great for top and bottom plates against already-sheathed outside walls, because you can tilt the hole toward the inside a little bit.


Added: By the way, are you talking about a bit extension, or the angled drill extension Milwaukee has for the angle drill?

 

[LarryFine]

No set height, just what is comfartable to drill at. I like boring with my 24 volt Dewalt and a wood auger that is a Irwin brand that I get at the Lowes stores. It is 3 times faster than anything I have ever used!

If you're talking about the 3-fluted Speedbor, you're right. They're great augers.

 

[Brian Oshman]

Second floor, top plates are drilled and wires are stapled along stud into attic, tacked over and dropped down to next box. First floor just the opposite, drill bottom plate and run through basement and back up (except for ceiling lighting which is drilled up of course), no straight across pulls. Less wire exposure and less chance of damage before rock goes up and less chances to ever hit it with a nail as the only place it will be is where a box is. You can step through any stud cavity after rough in without hitting any wires. Straight across pulls are only done if there is no other option.

 

[Cow]

sometimes i dont even go through the studs unless theres a box 1 or 2 bays over

My inspector would probably have something to say if I tried to run my Romex on the outside of the studs.:wink: