Drywall cutting and fishing

[nhfire77]

I normally do heavy commercial and industrial work, mostly new construction, so, I am not sure what the best way would be to do this. Actually, I am trying to bid it, and not sure the simplest way.

Attached is a bad Paint drawing. This is an assisted living facility, not healthcare. The hall ways are 5/8" floor to ceiling. The hallway has a drop ceiling, the apartments are solid ceiling. We are looking to add door closers to the apartments. (little red boxes in the drawing.)

Do we cut access holes in the hallway wall to make another smaller hole on the wall the door closers would be mounted to?

I am well aware firestopping is a huge concern. We did a walk through with facilities people, and I am the only bidder that look above the dropped ceiling. Now that they know a lot of firestopping is going to be needed, they are happy I pointed this out. They are calling the other bidders to come back. I have a pretty good rapport with the guys and they gave me ballpark estimates on their budget for this. I tried not to openly laugh, so I don't put much stock in this going forward, but I figure I would try and get this on paper just in case they break out the check book.

 

[jsmalone1]

It's been a while but I did a fairly large remodel of a nursing home. Generator/EM power added and fire alarm with door holders. I used Hilti brand firepads on the boxes and firecaulk for the wall penetrations. It went well. I don't know if Hilti still carries that line but there are plenty of suppliers out there that do. I submitted the Hilti documentation to the city for approval ahead of starting the job=no problems--It was pricey but we bought in bulk and saved a ton bc they couldn't sell the stuff.

 

[nhfire77]

We are doing surface mount boxes in the apartment. The wall which has the red box on it cannot be seen above the ceiling. It is behind the full height hallway wall. I am wondering about cutting access holes then just patching them with firestop, or???

 

[fishin' electrician]

Depending on framing, opening the wall above the drop ceiling may not even allow you to get into that perpendicular wall. Do you know which way the ceiling joists run? Worst case would be if ceiling joist run parallel with hallway.

Is a short section of wiremold from ceiling to door holder box an option?

That I could see getting a snake to if a hole is cut above the drop ceiling in hall and ceiling joists run perpendicular to the hallway.

Drilling up through the top plate for door holder box may only get you into a ceiling joist if it lays right on top of the wall.

You have your work cut out for you on this one, as each apt. may pose a slightly different scenario.

Still, there should be money to be made, especially with proper planning, which you seem to be on top of.

As far as patching, I would think it would be less expensive to close off the holes you cut with the pieces you cut out, firestopping material isn't cheap.

 

[nhfire77]

Depending on framing, opening the wall above the drop ceiling may not even allow you to get into that perpendicular wall. Do you know which way the ceiling joists run? Worst case would be if ceiling joist run parallel with hallway.

Is a short section of wiremold from ceiling to door holder box an option?

That I could see getting a snake to if a hole is cut above the drop ceiling in hall and ceiling joists run perpendicular to the hallway.

Drilling up through the top plate for door holder box may only get you into a ceiling joist if it lays right on top of the wall.

You have your work cut out for you on this one, as each apt. may pose a slightly different scenario.

Still, there should be money to be made, especially with proper planning, which you seem to be on top of.

As far as patching, I would think it would be less expensive to close off the holes you cut with the pieces you cut out, firestopping material isn't cheap.

I believe the joists are perpendicular to the hallway, base on the attic layout. There is a 2nd finished floor. Drilling down wont work.

I'm thinking an access hole needs to be made in the hallway to unit wall, but then I could drop out of the ceiling in pipe or wiremold, but ascetically speaking that would be, not good.

So that leave me making a hole in the hallway wall, then somehow reaching through that hole to the proper stud bad of the wall the door holder would be on. That seems like a nightmare.

I agree that some units would be more challenging than others. I'm still not sure what method will work.