Service change tools

Status
Not open for further replies.

mark32

Senior Member
Location
Currently in NJ
Lately I was thinking what tools I'd need if I become a contractor, someday. I'd like to get a pair of ratcheting cutters, hot box, hot gloves, extension ladder, maybe a small generator, but I haven't a clue as to what I'd use to re-attach the service conductors. I was reading about the popular Burndy MD6's but how do you use those crimps they recommend, cablelok crimpits? I was thinking they would look just like an insulated butt connector but they don't. I then thought about using those polaris connectors but I see they are quite pricey, not sure which would be better/more cost effective. Rather basic questions but when it comes to residential, 99% of the services I've done were all underground, I've never even installed a service hook before.
 

stevebea

Senior Member
Location
Southeastern PA
Lately I was thinking what tools I'd need if I become a contractor, someday. I'd like to get a pair of ratcheting cutters, hot box, hot gloves, extension ladder, maybe a small generator, but I haven't a clue as to what I'd use to re-attach the service conductors. I was reading about the popular Burndy MD6's but how do you use those crimps they recommend, cablelok crimpits? I was thinking they would look just like an insulated butt connector but they don't. I then thought about using those polaris connectors but I see they are quite pricey, not sure which would be better/more cost effective. Rather basic questions but when it comes to residential, 99% of the services I've done were all underground, I've never even installed a service hook before.

I know Blackburn makes Insulation Piercing type connectors. Only tools requried are a wrench but I have no idea as to their cost.
 

ASK_EDDIE

Member
Location
TEXAS
Here the final connections at the weatherhead to service conductors are always made by the power company, But from reading on here for several years thats not always the case in other parts of the country.
 

shepelec

Senior Member
Location
Palmer, MA
For connectors ask your utility, either they supply them, have a standard for them or they will make the permanent connections. National Grid will supply all the connectors I need for free.
Generator is nice but if you plan right you won't really need it. I run the SE and cut the socket in first, then I have a small panel with alligator clamps and a GFCI that feeds a temp outlet. If needed I also have a 3000W inverter on the truck for real tricky jobs.:cool:
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Lately I was thinking what tools I'd need if I become a contractor, someday. I'd like to get a pair of ratcheting cutters, hot box, hot gloves, extension ladder, maybe a small generator, but I haven't a clue as to what I'd use to re-attach the service conductors. I was reading about the popular Burndy MD6's but how do you use those crimps they recommend, cablelok crimpits? I was thinking they would look just like an insulated butt connector but they don't. I then thought about using those polaris connectors but I see they are quite pricey, not sure which would be better/more cost effective. Rather basic questions but when it comes to residential, 99% of the services I've done were all underground, I've never even installed a service hook before.

Even split bolts cost more than many crimp devices. The issue with the crimp devices is the cost of the crimper. If you are going to use it enough it is a good investment. Have you ever priced a battery or hydraulic operated crimper? They make hand crimpers look cheap.
 

GUNNING

Senior Member
I wish we could do the reconnect. It would really help with my sense of closure.
We have to negotiate with both the inspectors and the utility for a disconnect or the reconnect. Now thats what I call control freaks.
 

jmellc

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Occupation
Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
I temp the power back on most of my service changes & POCO comes later to do it their way. I found the cheapest way is to buy 6 4/O lugs. Bolt them together in pairs, back to back, securely tighten, using lock washers. Less than $10 for all. 4/0 split bolts were about $15 each, last time I bought them. That & 2 rolls of black tape, maybe $12 altogether.
 

renosteinke

Senior Member
Location
NE Arkansas
Tools for service changes ...

Here the PoCo recently changed their protocol, and now do NOT want the EC to disconnect from or connect to the service drop. They'll send a troubleman for that task.

Nevertheless, I got in the habit of keeping a few 'service' parts in my kit, including Polaris connectors. Price? As I see it, the increased safety and convenience was worth it. I also kept a bail (the thing that holds the ACSR to the mast) and the mast anchor bracket. For most service changes, you're increasing the size of the pipe.

So the service kit had a 2-1/2" hole saw (for 2" RMC), a 12" x 1/4"dia drill (as a pilot for the hole saw), and a 2" pipe die for cleaning excess zinc off the threads. Other tools include a 24" aluminum pipe wrench, a Vise-Grip brand chain wrench, pipe cutter large enough for 2", half-round file for bur removal,ground rod driver(s), ratchet cutter, ACSR cutters (or bolt cutters), a caulking gun, and various puttty knives.

Materials used, and kept with the 'service change kit,' include white phase tape, Scotch 88 tape, linerless splicing tape, splicing putty, Simpson Stron-Tie brand lag bolts, 2"RMC strut clamps, short pieces of strut, fender washers, roofing tar (both can and caulk-tube), roof jack, rope (for tying off the service conductors), and a plastic insert for the meter opening.

You mentioned crimpers. Be wary here; Greenlee has almost too many models- and it's very possible that the parts house will lend you a powered one. If you buy one, a model that looks like bolt cutters and will crimp everything from #3 to 2/0. You might also want one to crimp connectors onto #6 and #4 stranded wire.

"Specialty" tools you'll use, that ought to be in your general kit, include spade-shaped tile/glass bits (for cement siding), impact driver (for the lag bolts), cordless saws-it-all, demolition hammer (for the ground rod), ladder, Fein multimaster (removing old panel, trimming siding, etc.), Porta-band (primary tool for cutting strut and RMC), SDS roto-hammer (masonry work), assorted types of anchors, tin snips, and various wrenches and sockets.

Long list? Yup. Expensive? Yup. Gone are the days of $20 tools; now the stuff you need will cost hundreds of dollars each. Even my "Harbor Freight" rotohammer ($75) is in a $40 box, with over $300 in various bits. So here's what my real advice is: DON'T BUY ANYTHING. Instead, 'buy' the stuff in a 'virtual' way, and place the money in a dedicated savings account. Lees to guard/store/lose ... and you can always get it later.
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
... I haven't a clue as to what I'd use to re-attach the service conductors.
When I was a helper, I was taught to use 1/2" and 3/4" Tomic connectors for remaking service drop connections.

However, the POCO usually takes care of everything on the line side of the meter here, so we rarely have to touch those connections.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top