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    #16
    Originally posted by bullheimer View Post
    thanks for the replies. the microwave has to be hard wired as there is a whip with four wires in it, they look to be 14g at best. i am pretty amazed that it will draw 15 amps (it says it uses 3600 watts) at 240, so.....i guess that would get around any load/recept issues. also the oven has a whip as well with i believe 12g wires

    if it were my house, i don't know, i guess i would wire it up and do an actual voltage draw on it first. i expect it to be less, but then maybe the oven, if i did the same, would be more, don't have any 240 extention cords laying around. but i guess maybe that is the only way.
    Is this a microwave only? My guess is it is more likely a "speedcook oven" that has
    Originally posted by from TurboChef website data
    Airspeed Technology circulates currents of heated air from the top and bottom of the oven cavity to brown, sear and caramelize food. Precision microwave assists when helpful in the cooking process
    The toaster ovens in Subway sandwich shops, and many other rather fast baked foods in restaurants are done in this kind of oven these days, it is a fan forced oven with assistance from microwave action also and can cook foods up to 15 times faster than a conventional oven according to TurboChef.
    Last edited by kwired; 11-27-13, 02:20 PM.
    I live for today, I'm just a day behind.

    Comment


      #17
      yeah, the factory installer guy who sold my guy his stuff said it needs a dedicated 20A ckt. the end...

      it's called, according to him, a microwave convection oven. same diff as your speed cook i'm guessin.

      funny thing, it just never ends. the hole in the cabinets for the two of them is only 34 inches, and the oven is 27, the micro above it is 17. do the math, then break out your sawzall. now where's the smiley face slappin hisself upside the head??
      The End of the World as i Knew it: 2012. I'm having my Doom's Day now.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by bullheimer View Post
        ... now where's the smiley face slappin hisself upside the head??
        Right here....

        Comment


          #19
          None of these answers were very helpfull sooooo-

          Here is what you do if you are a real Electrician.

          *Using my 2011 Handbook (Check current code book but i doubt this has changed) Comment below if it has.

          Look at *220.55 Note #4 and Note #5- note the phrase "household cooking appliances" not just "Ovens" and "cook tops" there is no hard definition that excludes micro. its states you can supply a cook top and two ovens max with one circuit . Period ! IT will be added together and the KW total will be seen as ONE range and then use your chart Column A B or C. Table 220.55.
          SO NOTE 5= Microwave is a Household cooking appliance as well as it is a combo convection oven anyway which takes precedence anyhow.

          the neutral load will be more than usual on the Micro wave but similar since the code compensates for the neutral by keeping it 30 amp min. and romex is full size N who cares !
          So that's plenty for the micro and any low stetting oven neutral loads... as some ovens do apply a neutral load to the circuit in low setting apparently ...i did not know that .! Nor did i care since most feeder cables ran have a full size neutral. But some old houses may not have...

          For example if you have 2 -3000 kw appliances then you go with =6000 @25 amps and the demand of 2 @ Column B is 65 %.(16.25amps) of that total could be used for sizing. feeder. and Breaker so a 20amp 240 volt circuit could handle all that ! Coool! Always run the neutral You never know what is coming out to the job or what could happen in the future if some decide to change it. IF I were doing it I would run 8/3 anyway and run the breaker at 30 maybe in the hypo above but you can do 20 and 20 amp wire if you want. Wire is a heat sink so you take more of a chance of burning up something like a wire nut or terminal connection if you use small wire. so think safety but dont over do it too much is my opinion.

          *ARTICLE 210 .19 (A) 3 states that any appliance shall have an ampacity **(not less than) the rating of the branch circuit and not less that is the maximum load to be served.

          *210 .19 (A) 3. Exception #1 talks about tap conductors being not less than 20 amp wire.... this can count for appliance conductors from factory and your flex whip if you need one to go from j box to micro or cook top . so those could be 20 amp min. but again size with your heat sink in mind ...don't always do the min required . if you get a loose connection it may save you if you have bigger wire. and 20 amp and 50 dont mix well either in a wire nut... seen those catch fire. two similar size wires twist better or use insulated lugs for a sure connection for two different size wires.

          Neutral can not be ampacity of not less than 70 percent of branch circuit rating and not less than # 10= Exception #2

          **so breaker maximum is not noted if you notice... any breaker will protect from a short ... the worry with an oven is a short not an overload since the element can only do so much. and people don't turn everything on and blast it for 3 hours at a time! Common sense is needed too here. its not like they are firing swords in there oven !!! cooking a turkey in the convection all day etc....if they do they deserve to have their house burn down ..LOL


          Your Welcome!

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by bullheimer View Post
            yeah, the factory installer guy who sold my guy his stuff said it needs a dedicated 20A ckt. the end...

            it's called, according to him, a microwave convection oven. same diff as your speed cook i'm guessin.

            funny thing, it just never ends. the hole in the cabinets for the two of them is only 34 inches, and the oven is 27, the micro above it is 17. do the math, then break out your sawzall. now where's the smiley face slappin hisself upside the head??
            HE is wrong! Never Go by the "factory installer guy" said... NEC is what you go by. They just cover . . . . (Moderator's Note: inappropriate language removed.)
            Last edited by charlie b; 08-20-19, 01:39 PM.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by SMARTERCARTER View Post
              None of these answers were very helpfull sooooo-

              Here is what you do if you are a real Electrician.

              *Using my 2011 Handbook (Check current code book but i doubt this has changed) Comment below if it has.

              Look at *220.55 Note #4 and Note #5- note the phrase "household cooking appliances" not just "Ovens" and "cook tops" there is no hard definition that excludes micro. its states you can supply a cook top and two ovens max with one circuit . Period ! IT will be added together and the KW total will be seen as ONE range and then use your chart Column A B or C. Table 220.55.
              SO NOTE 5= Microwave is a Household cooking appliance as well as it is a combo convection oven anyway which takes precedence anyhow.

              the neutral load will be more than usual on the Micro wave but similar since the code compensates for the neutral by keeping it 30 amp min. and romex is full size N who cares !
              So that's plenty for the micro and any low stetting oven neutral loads... as some ovens do apply a neutral load to the circuit in low setting apparently ...i did not know that .! Nor did i care since most feeder cables ran have a full size neutral. But some old houses may not have...

              For example if you have 2 -3000 kw appliances then you go with =6000 @25 amps and the demand of 2 @ Column B is 65 %.(16.25amps) of that total could be used for sizing. feeder. and Breaker so a 20amp 240 volt circuit could handle all that ! Coool! Always run the neutral You never know what is coming out to the job or what could happen in the future if some decide to change it. IF I were doing it I would run 8/3 anyway and run the breaker at 30 maybe in the hypo above but you can do 20 and 20 amp wire if you want. Wire is a heat sink so you take more of a chance of burning up something like a wire nut or terminal connection if you use small wire. so think safety but dont over do it too much is my opinion.

              *ARTICLE 210 .19 (A) 3 states that any appliance shall have an ampacity **(not less than) the rating of the branch circuit and not less that is the maximum load to be served.

              *210 .19 (A) 3. Exception #1 talks about tap conductors being not less than 20 amp wire.... this can count for appliance conductors from factory and your flex whip if you need one to go from j box to micro or cook top . so those could be 20 amp min. but again size with your heat sink in mind ...don't always do the min required . if you get a loose connection it may save you if you have bigger wire. and 20 amp and 50 dont mix well either in a wire nut... seen those catch fire. two similar size wires twist better or use insulated lugs for a sure connection for two different size wires.

              Neutral can not be ampacity of not less than 70 percent of branch circuit rating and not less than # 10= Exception #2

              **so breaker maximum is not noted if you notice... any breaker will protect from a short ... the worry with an oven is a short not an overload since the element can only do so much. and people don't turn everything on and blast it for 3 hours at a time! Common sense is needed too here. its not like they are firing swords in there oven !!! cooking a turkey in the convection all day etc....if they do they deserve to have their house burn down ..LOL


              Your Welcome!
              You can run the oven all day if you want, heating element only cycles on as temp requires, which is also a consideration taken in setting up the demand factors.

              If you open the oven door and leave it open then you possibly end up with a continuous load situation - if it happens for too long and you used demand factors to reduce conductor ampacity and overcurrent protection - then you could end up tripping overcurrent device after being in this condition for a while. Otherwise the longest element run cycle is usually during "preheat"
              I live for today, I'm just a day behind.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by dereckbc View Post
                We do not have enough information to answer the question directly.

                For demonstration purposes let's assume it complies. If this were your home would you do that? I know I would not as that would be a poor practice and asking for trouble.
                Given the cost of most remodels, isn't the cost of a 2nd home run, so both the stove and the microwave can have their own circuits, pretty puny compared to the overall cost??

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by PaulMmn View Post

                  Given the cost of most remodels, isn't the cost of a 2nd home run, so both the stove and the microwave can have their own circuits, pretty puny compared to the overall cost??
                  sure most of time it is. Then there is that basement storage room you need to cross to do so but they have it stuffed full of so much crap they don't even know what is in there.
                  I live for today, I'm just a day behind.

                  Comment

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