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    #16
    Originally posted by JFletcher View Post
    I was going to mention those Tyco/TE Connectivity splices but using those house-wide would be a serious exercise in masochism.
    That's a great way to put it. But he asked.....


    You know the difference between a sadist and a masochist?
    A masochist says "beat me" and a sadist says "no"

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by JFletcher View Post
      They make strippers for UF that work great.

      http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-U...6200/205072204
      Its not the same as the easy clean stripping of paper NM. Trust me, if I had to strip NM all day I'd rather paper then something resembling UF.
      Our comedian shamelessly joked about a blackout. Talk about dark humor.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by mbrooke View Post
        Its not the same as the easy clean stripping of paper NM. Trust me, if I had to strip NM all day I'd rather paper then something resembling UF.
        Me too, tho rewiring a flood damaged home is not a daily thing. I'd give (well, sell) the HO something that would never need replacing due to flood again. I might even do it same labor cost and write off the extra time as charitable work.
        Electricians do it until it Hertz!

        Comment


          #19
          The main problem with water is obviously the connections.
          But the next main thing people overlook. If the wire is nicked somewhere. Boy it will really corrode in that spot. I've got a video of me finding #6 copper romex that had condensation clinging to the wires and running into the outer sheath. That water ruined it. It was just a big glob of corrosion..

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by JFletcher View Post
            Me too, tho rewiring a flood damaged home is not a daily thing. I'd give (well, sell) the HO something that would never need replacing due to flood again. I might even do it same labor cost and write off the extra time as charitable work.
            How do we know water wont get into the jacket regardless? Nowhere is a perfect or snug fit guaranteed around the EGC and conductors.
            Our comedian shamelessly joked about a blackout. Talk about dark humor.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by mbrooke View Post
              How do we know water wont get into the jacket regardless? Nowhere is a perfect or snug fit guaranteed around the EGC and conductors.
              UF is rated for wet locations. I dont care if water gets in, it's buried all the time and sits for years in water/wet locations. If a house was wired with UF, it wouldn't need rewiring if/when flooded, which is what I was getting at.
              Electricians do it until it Hertz!

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by JFletcher View Post
                UF is rated for wet locations. I dont care if water gets in, it's buried all the time and sits for years in water/wet locations. If a house was wired with UF, it wouldn't need rewiring if/when flooded, which is what I was getting at.
                Oh- my mistake. I thought you meant Canadian NM.
                Our comedian shamelessly joked about a blackout. Talk about dark humor.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by James L View Post
                  That's a great way to put it. But he asked.....


                  You know the difference between a sadist and a masochist?
                  A masochist says "beat me" and a sadist says "no"


                  Yeah, those Tyco splices *are* an option, and I've used them before where a cable needed to be extended behind something basically un-fishable, like wainscoating. I'd not use them house wide under any circumstance.
                  Electricians do it until it Hertz!

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by JFletcher View Post


                    Yeah, those Tyco splices *are* an option, and I've used them before where a cable needed to be extended behind something basically un-fishable, like wainscoating. I'd not use them house wide under any circumstance.
                    Can you imagine spending $600 on those kits and then spending a whole week making them up?

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by James L View Post
                      Can you imagine spending $600 on those kits and then spending a whole week making them up?
                      I imagine after a while you'd get pretty good at it. and mobile homes use devices that are similar in design. but no, I'd not want to use them for anything more than a single, emergency fix where cutting open the wall isnt possible w/o major damage to it or its finish.
                      Electricians do it until it Hertz!

                      Comment


                        #26
                        There are splice kits which are UL listed for Non-accessible applications:

                        3-wire
                        http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Elec...69-2/202204327

                        2-wire
                        http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Elec...-000/202204326


                        So these are really made to be concealed in the wall??
                        So if the connection goes bad.....

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by JFletcher View Post
                          I imagine after a while you'd get pretty good at it. and mobile homes use devices that are similar in design. but no, I'd not want to use them for anything more than a single, emergency fix where cutting open the wall isnt possible w/o major damage to it or its finish.
                          I've used one in my whole life, in a finished basement with no unfinished area except furnace room. Home run dropped down from main floor to switches which were being deleted. No can light close enough, etc. So I spliced that one home run

                          I felt ashamed of myself....

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Thanks for all the input. Though the reason for paper wrapping is a bit off topic, still interesting.
                            @ JamesL - now we're getting somewhere. The splices - I assume satisfy code - buried in a drywall, 2x4 cavity?
                            From the Home Dep pic, they don't look any safer than putting a box (e.g., metal, w/ romex clamps) and a lid inside the wall. Maybe it has to do w/ size of a buried box - bigger target if cutting into a wall? Not sure. Other than the splices' clamping force, they don't look "safer" than a quality J-box & lid.

                            What about any of these (I just filtered on 600v) https://www.grainger.com/category/sp...1splice%2Bkits

                            For instance, https://www.grainger.com/product/IDE...ce-Kits-29UJ82 says it's for UNDERground, 600v. Where / how would I find out if any splice met / exceeded code for indoor & inside a wall?

                            Re: actual water height. The day the water receded, I determined from some 16" concrete blocks on end (raising furniture), the water level in the house had to be < 8". More like 7" or 6."
                            Took a day to sink in. So it never got to std height outlets & not to the load center. There are 3 or 4 outlets - maybe a few more - closer to the slab. They probably were under a couple inches water ~ 24 - 36 hrs, est.
                            The drywall is all removed to ~ 42" now, but I didn't check how wire ran to those few low outlets. Straight up, or sideways. But I can.
                            Eventually, flood insurance / FEMA requires removing 48" of drywall - apparently if there's only 1" of water.

                            Re: checking water wicking (if any) in the few low outlets. (this is more like a 1-7/8 story) Other than replacing the wire to near the 1st floor ceiling (at least 9ft, maybe more in one room) & checking that the wrapping isn't wet at that point, the testing method - if & how high - water wicked up is a bit puzzling. There are "moisture meters" - made to check lumber, slabs, walls, etc. Some have 2 very small probes. I suppose you could gently pierce the sheathing - several ft above the outlet - over the grd conductor & test w/ a meter. Granted, it's only a few outlets.

                            Don't know if code allows cutting / slicing / penetrating romex sheathing (for any reason), then re-seal, say a short slice in outer sheathing w/ tape, liquid tape or any other product. I don't see that as a risk, despite code. They MAKE many splice products for below & above ground cables, but don't know exact applications. Maybe mfg's sites give applications.

                            Fishing new wire to the 2nd story attic & setting a J box - "just to be safe," is a fair amt of work, w/o knowing if water wicked 1 inch or past the 1st floor ceiling. But, can be done..
                            In ONE room, the near to floor outlets are on an outside wall, that does NOT have a 2nd story above it - only a low pitch roof w/ too small an attic space to get near the top plate of the outer wall.
                            It'd take luck & skill to run a fish tape from the breakfast room, into the tight attic (maybe 4:12 pitch roof there) & get it to move back toward open attic. It's theoretically "possible."

                            I haven't actually crawled into that part of attic. Maybe w/ a long pole / extension pole of sorts, to reach ? 12 - 15 ft (wild guess) across the low attic, that could grab the fish tape or, bend the tape down enough, so it started running along the roof decking, toward the taller attic. It could be difficult on certain outlets.

                            @ Goldstar:
                            Wiring under water If undamaged, no replacement is necessary
                            So... NJ decided that water wicking up the grd conductor wrapping wasn't an issue? Or did I misinterpret?
                            IIRC, with Sandy, some parts of NJ had salt or brackish flood water? Here, no salt. Rising water was from rain & dam releases. Yes - it could have caused sanitary sewers to overflow. Don't think that's a danger to copper.
                            Unless you got a water sample from the house, or take a wire section to a testing lab, no way to know what was in water. If anything of concern, I'd wager it was pretty diluted, as the rains were torrential & record breaking.
                            IMHO, if I couldn't readily and easily identify whether any cabling was damaged I would replace it.
                            How would you determine if water wicked up the romex? Or just ignore that, as NJ did? For wire, other than water in the ground wrapping, what would damage it, if walls are all standing?
                            we're not talking about a few inches of water - we're talking about feet of water
                            Not here, we're not. About 8" -almost certainly less. Who ever said that some NJ houses had water wick 10 ft up the romex, IIRC didn't say how high the water was above the lowest cut end of romex. 7 in. vs. 7 ft of water makes a huge difference how high the water inside romex had to overcome gravity Also length of time it was under water.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by LarrywdH View Post
                              There are splice kits which are UL listed for Non-accessible applications:

                              3-wire
                              http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Elec...69-2/202204327

                              2-wire
                              http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Elec...-000/202204326


                              So these are really made to be concealed in the wall??
                              So if the connection goes bad.....
                              Yes, designed to be concealed & non-accessible.

                              They have screw terminals to connect the wires, and a janky strain relief strap. And they clip together like a quick-connect.

                              If the connection goes bad, you're probably thinking a flying splice with wire nuts would have been better.

                              I've used one in my entire life, and I didn't like it.

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