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Finding Low voltage wall plate

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  • S'mise
    replied
    Perhaps I'll try and call manufacture next time.

    Thanks again for everyones advice.

    The makeshift plate looks decent, so I'll consider it a success.

    Leave a comment:


  • brantmacga
    replied
    Originally posted by S'mise View Post
    As with many things, it has to do with time/money.
    I find it's not worth spending much of either, dealing with the manufacture.
    Most of my jobs aren't long term plans that afford the luxury of waiting a month or so for a plate to be made up.
    Typically it’s a 7 day turn around for me. Idk I’d call and ask at least but I understand your point


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • LarryFine
    replied
    I'd be willing to make a phone call to either prove or disprove your assessment if it were me.

    Leave a comment:


  • S'mise
    replied
    As with many things, it has to do with time/money.
    I find it's not worth spending much of either, dealing with the manufacture.
    Most of my jobs aren't long term plans that afford the luxury of waiting a month or so for a plate to be made up.

    Leave a comment:


  • hbiss
    replied
    Originally posted by LarryFine View Post
    I'm back to contacting the plate maker and ask if they will make the blank plates you need. After all, what you'd really be asking them to do is not do machining to plates they already make.
    Wouldn't even have to do the holes. For a blank they would be different locations than the other plates they make so they may object. Drill them yourself and use a countersink.

    -Hal

    Leave a comment:


  • LarryFine
    replied
    I'm back to contacting the plate maker and ask if they will make the blank plates you need. After all, what you'd really be asking them to do is not do machining to plates they already make.

    Leave a comment:


  • brantmacga
    replied
    I’ve done it with painters tape and a small cut off wheel; just keep it low enough to not scorch the finish. But to me it’s worth it to pay $100 versus spending two hours trying to measure and cut.


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  • S'mise
    replied
    Originally posted by brantmacga View Post

    I had to order a custom 4gg stainless plate 3 weeks ago for LV infrared heater switches; it was $100 plus shipping.

    It was four cutouts roughly 20mm x 20 mm.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I might try cutting out the plate myself at that price.
    I use blue painters tape on the face (to stop scratches) before drilling/cutting with a fine tooth jig-saw blade. I've had success doing snap in rocker switches like that in the past.
    I admit it's not fun.

    The trick with stainless steel is using low rpms.

    Of course if the customer doesn't mind just add it to the list.

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  • brantmacga
    replied
    Originally posted by S'mise View Post

    Any (ballpark) idea what "expensive" is?
    I had to order a custom 4gg stainless plate 3 weeks ago for LV infrared heater switches; it was $100 plus shipping.

    It was four cutouts roughly 20mm x 20 mm.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • S'mise
    replied
    Thanks guys. Sometimes you do the best you can and move on.
    I often remind myself, "you're not building a church".
    ​​​​​​

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  • hbiss
    replied
    Hey, does it look better than it did? Nuf said.

    Now the customer can put some sticky labels on it so it will match the rest of the decor.

    -Hal

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  • al hildenbrand
    replied
    Originally posted by PaulMmn View Post
    Paint all 4 of the plates in that cluster so at least they'll -appear- to be the same!
    But then those four three-gang plates won't match the nearby receptacle plates.

    John, short of getting a custom color match, I think you've done a good job. The customer's switches stand out, . . . They are Power & Light controls, not to be confused with the "grayed out" security controls. The nickel paint, although not a match, mutes the security group.

    I like it.

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  • PaulMmn
    replied
    Paint all 4 of the plates in that cluster so at least they'll -appear- to be the same!

    Leave a comment:


  • S'mise
    replied
    Turn out worse than I hoped but it'll do, I guess.

    Satin nickel paint doesn't match satin nickel plate but was closest color I could find. At least it sort of matches wall color.

    Plastic inserts were extremely tight fit to switch plate so I couldn't do a proper alignment and get them flush (in spite of spacers) because I had to first tighten 6 box screws of the insert before inserting 6 face screws that hold the plate to the inserts.

    l will replace white screws with stainless when paint is touched up. I couldn't get plate straight due to the fact I couldn't tighten box screws all the way in order for insert alignment.
    What a pain in the arse. Click image for larger version

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  • S'mise
    replied
    Originally posted by synchro View Post
    https://www.houseofantiquehardware.c...ategory=427774

    For the big holes, would stainless fender washers to span the larger hole and a smaller washer behind it to center the switch in the hole work out?.
    That's a great idea, but using fender washers would make it look a little funny, along with the spacing of the holes a little different than the others.

    Besides, I already ordered the decora plate and blank inserts. I'll post a picture of how it looks next week.

    I do appreciate it.

    Leave a comment:

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