Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

When do contactors have to be in an enclosure.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    When do contactors have to be in an enclosure.

    Hey guys, I'm doing a job where I'm going to wire a wells mfg. ventless hood. There are (2 )40 amp 208 volt 3 phase fryers, a 90 amp 208 volt single phase range and the 20 amp hood circuit. The fryers and the range will run through normally closed contractors I will install. How do I know if these contractors have to be installed in an enclosure and if so can I use 3 separate enclosures?

    #2
    Just to clarify, are you asking if you need an enclosure versus bare open terminals mounted on a wall? Or is there an equipment chase integral to the hood?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    [COLOR="Blue"]Brought to you by Carl's Jr.[/COLOR]

    Comment


      #3
      There is a electrical chase area designated for contractors, terminations, and such.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by patricknola View Post
        There is a electrical chase area designated for contractors, terminations, and such.
        You don’t need a separate enclosure. There should be a bonding lug somewhere also on that chase.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        [COLOR="Blue"]Brought to you by Carl's Jr.[/COLOR]

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by patricknola View Post
          There is a electrical chase area designated for contractors, terminations, and such.
          Are you sure about that? Look at page 13.

          -Hal

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by hbiss View Post

            Are you sure about that? Look at page 13.

            -Hal
            Originally posted by patricknola View Post
            There is a electrical chase area designated for contractors, terminations, and such.

            I just went back to your original post on the subject and read through the hood manual.

            Those diagrams do not show an integral equipment chase; do you have exactly what is in the manual or do you have additional components on the actual install?

            The hood chase I’m referring to would be a stainless enclosure connected to the hood itself and contains the ansul system & microswitches, wiring compartments and terminal blocks for devices mounted under the hood. Again I don’t see this on the drawings. Do you by chance have a picture of what’s there ?


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            [COLOR="Blue"]Brought to you by Carl's Jr.[/COLOR]

            Comment


              #7
              If you look at page 4 there is an internal drawing of the fan and filter unit with call outs and on page 5 all internal components are identified. There is a wiring compartment where they have their relays as well as the terminal blocks for field wiring. No provision is made for additional contactors. Page 13 has a drawing that shows an external field installed contactor cabinet and routing for raceways from it to supply the receptacles for the appliances.

              -Hal

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by patricknola View Post
                Hey guys, I'm doing a job where I'm going to wire a wells mfg. ventless hood. There are (2 )40 amp 208 volt 3 phase fryers, a 90 amp 208 volt single phase range and the 20 amp hood circuit. The fryers and the range will run through normally closed contractors I will install. How do I know if these contractors have to be installed in an enclosure and if so can I use 3 separate enclosures?
                Would it just be more productive to just install shunt trip breakers if the panel has room for them? That way all your doing is taking a wire back to panel to trip the shunt trip breakers for the appliances.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by mopowr steve View Post

                  Would it just be more productive to just install shunt trip breakers if the panel has room for them? That way all your doing is taking a wire back to panel to trip the shunt trip breakers for the appliances.
                  Been there with that suggestion. Yeah it would, even a sub panel for all those circuits fed from one shunt trip breaker. Thing is the hood does not have the provision to do that. All it has is a SINGLE CONTACT THAT OPENS when the hood shuts down, malfunctions or there is a fire. You would need a contact that closes to operate a shunt trip, but even if they had that you would need to reset the shunt trip breaker(s) each time after turning the hood off.

                  -Hal

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You mean there’s not another micro switch in the suppression system actuator that you could come off of? Or add a second microswitch if it only came with one?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Every control head I've wired contained two micro-switches, and could be fitted with two more.

                      The fire guys usually carry spares, and will usually give you a few; don't forget to ask for mounting screws.
                      Master Electrician
                      Electrical Contractor
                      Richmond, VA

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by mopowr steve View Post
                        You mean there’s not another micro switch in the suppression system actuator that you could come off of? Or add a second microswitch if it only came with one?
                        Originally posted by LarryFine
                        Every control head I've wired contained two micro-switches, and could be fitted with two more.

                        The fire guys usually carry spares, and will usually give you a few; don't forget to ask for mounting screws.
                        NO!!!

                        This is actually the second thread by this OP about this thing and all of that was hashed out in the first. The OP should have added this question to his first post rather than starting a second and causing confusion.

                        This is NOT your typical hood system. It's all self contained with no option to do anything other than external contactors for electric appliances. That's how they designed it.

                        There is no outside ventilation and the whole thing sits atop a 3 sided SS enclosure supported by legs on the floor that the appliances go into. It's really an appliance in itself. Not even attached to the structure.

                        -Hal


                        Last edited by hbiss; 10-13-19, 01:04 AM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          A DPDT relay can be added easily enough.
                          Master Electrician
                          Electrical Contractor
                          Richmond, VA

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Larry, you're making my head hurt. I already suggested that in the first post and it was shown not to be an option.

                            -Hal

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X