Protect cables in stud bay

Status
Not open for further replies.

aries

Member
Hey everyone, I’d like to solicit an opinion or some advice on the following -

We have drywall down on an interior residential wall in order to replace a damaged pipe that runs within. The stud bay in which this pipe ran contains several others as well as some electrical - a couple #12 Romex and a big 3/2 romex cable that feeds a sub panel elsewhere in the house.

This wall section is in a hallway and seems like it would be subject to nail damage from people hanging pictures. The removed drywall bares this out with several picture hangar holes visible. Given that a nm cable full of #2 conductors is pretty stiff, I’m concerned that someone could hit it with a picture hangar nail with pretty exciting results.

its not feasible to get this into a conduit of any sort. But I’m wondering if there may be other methods to shield this cable better / increase safety. Perhaps some sort of wrap, or maybe some kind of nail plate that covers the whole stud bay? Besides the electrical, the pipes would also be at risk though with less chance of personal injury.

Does anyone have any thought?

-J
 

petersonra

Senior Member
Location
Northern illinois
Occupation
engineer
I think it is not required by code. I also think a nail plate that would cover the hole stud bay would be pricey.

Picture hangers generally do not have nails that go real far past the inside face of the drywall. I would not be all that concerned about it.
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
The Code only requires that your cables are at least 1-1/4" from the edge of the stud where the hole is drilled. It can bulge out in the middle of the bay and rest on the back of the sheetrock for all they care. This is why I would like to see NM cable banned rather than having to use some hokey AFCIs as a work around.

If you are concerned get a sheet of 1/16" thick steel cut to whatever size you require to cover that bay behind the sheetrock. Either rout out the stud faces by 1/16" so the plate sits flush and won't bulge the sheetrock or nail cleats to ether side of the studs 1/16" back to mount the plate.

-Hal
 

oldsparky52

Senior Member
The Code only requires that your cables are at least 1-1/4" from the edge of the stud where the hole is drilled. It can bulge out in the middle of the bay and rest on the back of the sheetrock for all they care. This is why I would like to see NM cable banned rather than having to use some hokey AFCIs as a work around.

If you are concerned get a sheet of 1/16" thick steel cut to whatever size you require to cover that bay behind the sheetrock. Either rout out the stud faces by 1/16" so the plate sits flush and won't bulge the sheetrock or nail cleats to ether side of the studs 1/16" back to mount the plate.

-Hal

The sheetrock guy might not like that idea too much.
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
A plate to cover the whole bay would weight over 30 pounds.

Well, ya want protection or don't you? Actually he doesn't have to cover the whole bay top to bottom, just where the wiring is. Rockers can use drill point screws like they use for structural framing.

Real story. I was doing a house many years ago and ran quite a few home runs through a ceiling bay in the basement over to where the panel was. Ceiling was to be finished with sheetrock. Despite supports across the bay and because of insulation, the wiring would sag in some places. Now, the owner of the new house who worked for the railroad as an electrician wasn't happy with that. He just so happened to work in the maintenance shop that repairs the cars. So I said OK, get me a piece of sheet metal to cover the area. What he got me was a piece of stainless that I couldn't even drill through. :eek: Had him take it back to work and punch some holes in it for roofing nails so I could nail it up.

i thought AFCIs were about cords that failed?

They are about anything they can convince people they will protect them from.:roll:

-Hal
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
I would use a couple of wooden or metal sticks, cut to fit between the studs, and strategically placed to keep the cable away from the back of the drywall, more or less centered between wall surfaces.
 

winnie

Senior Member
Location
Springfield, MA, USA
Occupation
Electric motor research
I am guessing that these were fished cables, but now the wall is open for work.

It seems to me that anchoring/supporting these cables as would be required for new work in an open wall is a reasonable improvement to deal with the nail situation.

-Jon
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top