Model Railroad System

[NewtonLaw]

I have a request to install 120 volt duplex outlets to the underside of the wood frame work that supports a model railroad layout. My question is am I allowed to use standard Romex cable, type NM, attached to the wood frame or must I place the circuit in plastic conduit?

 

[PaulMmn]

I'm a model railroader myself, and what you describe is often done, but is most likely not up to code. AFAIK, any permanent outlets need to be mounted on a permanent part of the building, not the frame of a model railroad.

I'd suggest mounting the 'official' up-to-code outlets to the wall, then use power strips with 15' (or longer, if you can find them) cords to distribute power to where it's needed.

And remember-- power strips are not to be permanently mounted; they're called (IIRC) 'temporary power taps.' :angel:

 

[winnie]

If the wood framework is anchored down, then think of this the way you would install receptacles on any sort of permanently installed cabinetry. If these were receptacles installed on the underside of a countertop in a kitchen, would NM be sufficient, or would you require conduit?

IMHO it would depend upon the specifics of the installation and the likelihood that the NM would be exposed to damage. NM running right on the front bottom edge of the countertop would probably not be acceptable, but NM running further back might be just fine. Also remember that this counter will likely have holes drilled in it all over the place to run low voltage wires. MC anyone?

 

[LarryFine]

I
And remember-- power strips are not to be permanently mounted; they're called (IIRC) 'temporary power taps.' :angel:

I would think that your suggestion would not be considered a permanent use for the same reason the NM would not be permitted.

 

[NewtonLaw]

Thank you for your responses. The frame work holding the model RR is substantial an covers 3/4 of the basement that is 26 by 46. The platform height is about 48” high and the sides are enclosed with removable panels. I didn’t know if this would constitute a protected area and thus allow for open NM wire installation. I appreciate your insight.

 

[LarryFine]

I say it's not a problem. I am curious about the connection to the house wiring.

 

[GoldDigger]

I think may also depend on whether the construction is considered as furniture or as a built-in countertop or platform. Is it attached to the walla or freestanding?



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[jaggedben]

Another model railroader here...

I think that unless the local jurisdiction has a rule otherwise, there is no requirement that NM must be concealed. With that said...

I think that whether model railroad benchwork of that scale can be considered temporary or permanent would be an intractable debate, regardless of how its constructed. But I would ere on the side of it being temporary. Certainly the next owner of the house is unlikely to keep it there.

For what it's worth, at the model railroad club I belong to, generally all permanently wired 120V wiring is mounted to walls of the building, or walkways and platforms built through the space for people to stand on. All wiring attached to the benchwork that directly supports the model track and scenery is 12V or less and is for running the trains only. The few exceptions involve only plug-in 120V lighting fixtures and the like. If/when I get around to building something in my own home I would not attach any premises wiring to any model railroad benchwork. For one thing, we always want to keep open the option of modifying the track and scenery.

 

[PaulMmn]

Another suggestion-- however you wire the outlets, run them all through a single on/off switch, either a breaker, or a 20A toggle. That way, you can power off -everything- in the model train room when you shut down for the night. No lingering soldering iron or plug-in heaters to worry about.

And another-- Wire in one light fixture with the outlet circuit. That's your pilot light. If the light is on, your outlets are live.