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20' aluminum light pole what size Sono tube

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    20' aluminum light pole what size Sono tube

    Hello all
    I have to install a 20' aluminum light pole. What size Sono tube would I need. The pole is square. I will have one fixture on top. I know you are suppose to have this engineered out but I was hoping to get a rough idea on what I'm looking at for size. I was thinking maybe a 18" tube 6' long. 4' in the ground and two above. Maybe it needs to be longer? Any help would be great.
    thanks

    #2
    Using your guesstimate, I would make one change: 6' tube, 5'​ in the ground.

    Don't forget to make a hole in the tube for the PVC stub-out.
    Master Electrician
    Electrical Contractor
    Richmond, VA

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      #3
      By the precast footings , I have a friend doing alot of these on a job right now the precast are easy to install and sometimes cheaper

      Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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        #4
        Originally posted by purevoltage View Post
        Hello all
        I have to install a 20' aluminum light pole. What size Sono tube would I need. The pole is square. I will have one fixture on top. I know you are suppose to have this engineered out but I was hoping to get a rough idea on what I'm looking at for size. I was thinking maybe a 18" tube 6' long. 4' in the ground and two above. Maybe it needs to be longer? Any help would be great.
        thanks
        I'm doing a job with 25' poles. Base is 24" diameter, 30" above ground, 48" below ground.

        For what it's worth.

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          #5
          Although you can possibly come up with a general conservative answer, I would have to say that the engineered answer will depend on the characteristics of the soil or other substrate and the likely wind loading on the pole.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by purevoltage View Post
            Hello all
            I have to install a 20' aluminum light pole. What size Sono tube would I need. The pole is square. I will have one fixture on top. [COLOR=#ff0000]I know you are suppose to have this engineered[/COLOR] out but I was hoping to get a rough idea on what I'm looking at for size. I was thinking maybe a 18" tube 6' long. 4' in the ground and two above. Maybe it needs to be longer? Any help would be great.
            thanks
            permitted? how you gonna get this signed off without a stamped drawing?

            last poles i did required a certified inspector for the pour, and a concrete sample
            he took with him. all working off a stamped approved drawing.

            YMMV.
            ~New signature under construction.~
            ~~~~Please excuse the mess.~~~~

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              #7
              You need information on the E.P.A. of the fixture(s) and the design wind speed.
              The more they overthink the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain

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                #8
                Maybe throw some rebar in.
                At the last lighting job we did it became obvious prefab is now the way to go. No drilling use a backhoe, no pour, no base bolt problems, base was smooth,...

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by GoldDigger View Post
                  Although you can possibly come up with a general conservative answer, I would have to say that the engineered answer will depend on the characteristics of the soil or other substrate and the likely wind loading on the pole.


                  Originally posted by nickelec View Post
                  By the precast footings , I have a friend doing alot of these on a job right now the precast are easy to install and sometimes cheaper

                  Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
                  Seems to me a poured in place footing fills all the voids. Precast would mean you need to compact soil around it, as well as under it if you excavated too deep, or you have more risk of movement later. Not really any different than setting wood poles in direct contact with soil. Not saying it won't work, but probably has advantages as well as disadvantages.
                  I live for today, I'm just a day behind.

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                    #10
                    Wow
                    Thanks for all the suggestions. I do have a permit for this. The city does not require a stamped set of prints for this pole. I had not thought about a precast base. I will have to look into that. To be safe though I'm getting a engineer to figure out what we need for sure. I agree that it depends on the soil and that part I'm not really sure what we are going to need. I will reply back with the answer from the engineer to see what he says. thanks for all the great suggestion.

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                      #11
                      Ok my wag,
                      24"x6' set 4' min.
                      Rebar cage
                      4800/+ psi concrete

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                        #12
                        Many pole manufucturer's have "per-engineered" base designs in their technical literature. Of course they are based on a specific set of conditions that may or may not apply to your installation.
                        Don, Illinois
                        (All code citations are 2017 unless otherwise noted)

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                          #13
                          I just did my first job with direct buried poles. They were 5” round aluminum, 20’ above grade and 4’ below, with a double bullhorn and two 300w flood lights for a sports field. The pole supplier did all the calcs for the soil type, I just needed backfill with coarse gravel or concrete. I went concrete. They went really well, I was impressed. A lot cheaper than getting footings poured as well.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by MNSparky View Post
                            I just did my first job with direct buried poles. They were 5” round aluminum, 20’ above grade and 4’ below, with a double bullhorn and two 300w flood lights for a sports field. The pole supplier did all the calcs for the soil type, I just needed backfill with coarse gravel or concrete. I went concrete. They went really well, I was impressed. A lot cheaper than getting footings poured as well.
                            What is the significant difference if you filled the hole with concrete anyway? Only 20' pole (above grade) doesn't need anything too special of a footing if it just has a couple luminaires on it.
                            I live for today, I'm just a day behind.

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                              #15
                              The difference in my eyes is big cost savings. In the past, I’ve hired a concrete guy to make the rebar cages, pour the footings and then hired a crane to set the poles. In this case, we dug a hole 4’ deep, was able to set the poles by hand with three guys fairly easily since they are aluminum and we are just dropping them in a hole, not up on bolts (no crane) and we mixed 5 bags of concrete for each pole ourselves in a wheelbarrow (no concrete contractor, the concrete just needs to be heavy, not any particular strength). It was a little extra work for us, but we saved I’m guessing $3500 in subs.

                              The reason I went this direction in the first place is we needed to put these poles out in a field with no road access. We couldn’t have cranes or concrete trucks drive on the sports fields as they’d destroy them. The poles were light enough for two guys to easily carry them the several hundred feet to the locations.

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