Single 15A receptacle on a 20A breaker

[infinity]

So to add some clarification on the issue the end user's piece of equipment comes with a 15A plug installed. Plus, the vendor literature states the power supply should be a 15A dedicated circuit. I did not know this info when I posted the question, but am now providing it. Now I am being told instead of just installing a 15A breaker, the plan is to keep a 20A breaker, remove the 15A plug and install a 20A plug, replace the vendor cord, and install a 20A receptacle. So, in my opinion the plan resolves one issue, but creates additional. Not only does invalidate the UL listing, but the OCPD rating is greater than specified by the vendor. Therefore, the equipment is not properly protected. I will be reviewing the code to see what it states, but would appreciate any comments. If I need to explain anything please let me know. Thanks

Why would you change the plug? A120 volt 20 amp single receptacle accepts both 15 and 20 amp plugs.

 

[LarryFine]

Agreed. No reason to alter the equipment.

 

[hbiss]

So to add some clarification on the issue the end user's piece of equipment comes with a 15A plug installed. Plus, the vendor literature states the power supply should be a 15A dedicated circuit.

The equipment that's like this that I'm most familiar with is commercial cooking equipment. There are fryers, for instance, exactly like that with a 15A plug and requiring a 15A dedicated circuit. If you look at the name plate you will see that they draw something like 14.8 amps all by itself so you can't plug it into an receptacle that's on a circuit that has other receptacles on it (non-dedicated) because there will be nothing left for anything else. Even a 20 amp non-dedicated circuit is going to have problems. So that's the reason for the 15A dedicated requirement. Now, that doesn't mean that you can't supply it with a dedicated 20A circuit, it's just that 15 is the minimum because it draws 14.8A.

As was stated, a 20A/120V receptacle (5-20R) has a "T" slot on one side allowing it to accept both 15 and 20A plugs. So you are good to go, and I'm happy to see that you are using a 20A single receptacle on a 20A dedicated circuit. :thumbsup:

-Hal

 

[Nardie]

Why would you change the plug? A120 volt 20 amp single receptacle accepts both 15 and 20 amp plugs.

Do you read the full question? I don't think I should replace plug, but install a 15A breaker. The vendor supplies the equipment with a 15A plug and requires a 15A dedicate circuit. So in my opinion by installing a 20A plug and 20A breaker would invalidate the vendor's warranty. Just my thoughts but appreciate yours.

 

[Nardie]

The equipment that's like this that I'm most familiar with is commercial cooking equipment. There are fryers, for instance, exactly like that with a 15A plug and requiring a 15A dedicated circuit. If you look at the name plate you will see that they draw something like 14.8 amps all by itself so you can't plug it into an receptacle that's on a circuit that has other receptacles on it (non-dedicated) because there will be nothing left for anything else. Even a 20 amp non-dedicated circuit is going to have problems. So that's the reason for the 15A dedicated requirement. Now, that doesn't mean that you can't supply it with a dedicated 20A circuit, it's just that 15 is the minimum because it draws 14.8A.

As was stated, a 20A/120V receptacle (5-20R) has a "T" slot on one side allowing it to accept both 15 and 20A plugs. So you are good to go, and I'm happy to see that you are using a 20A single receptacle on a 20A dedicated circuit. :thumbsup:

-Hal

So by removing the plug would probably invalidate the UL listing for the piece of equipment plus the vendor cord. Plus, the design calls for a dedicated circuit. I see no reason to just install a 15A breaker, unless I'm missing something. Let me know. Thanks

 

[infinity]

Do you read the full question? I don't think I should replace plug, but install a 15A breaker. The vendor supplies the equipment with a 15A plug and requires a 15A dedicate circuit. So in my opinion by installing a 20A plug and 20A breaker would invalidate the vendor's warranty. Just my thoughts but appreciate yours.

I did read the question and my response was directed to the bold part of your post (see below). As I stated there is no reason to change the plug from 15 to 20 amps because the 15 amp plug will fit in a 20 amp single receptacle. I agree with you about the warranty issue.

So to add some clarification on the issue the end user's piece of equipment comes with a 15A plug installed. Plus, the vendor literature states the power supply should be a 15A dedicated circuit. I did not know this info when I posted the question, but am now providing it.Now I am being told instead of just installing a 15A breaker, the plan is to keep a 20A breaker, remove the 15A plug and install a 20A plug, replace the vendor cord, and install a 20A receptacle. So, in my opinion the plan resolves one issue, but creates additional. Not only does invalidate the UL listing, but the OCPD rating is greater than specified by the vendor. Therefore, the equipment is not properly protected. I will be reviewing the code to see what it states, but would appreciate any comments. If I need to explain anything please let me know. Thanks

 

[tortuga]

1

 

[hbiss]

Not only does invalidate the UL listing, but the OCPD rating is greater than specified by the vendor. Therefore, the equipment is not properly protected.

I don't disagree with 110.3(B) however you have to use common sense when applying it because it covers every piece of listed electrical equipment regardless of what it is. You don't say what kind of equipment you are talking about. Sensitive medical equipment is one thing and cooking equipment like I was talking about is another. Further, if something is cord and plug connected there is no telling where the owner is going to plug it in. In my example above, I can guarantee you that the 15A dedicated circuit is: A) because it doesn't need a 20A circuit and B) needs to be dedicated because if there is anything else on the circuit it will result in the breaker tripping- which will result in service calls and returns claiming that the unit is defective. (And that right there is the main reason for the wording on the label, to cover their butt against stupid.) So in this case at least, a 20A circuit is more than fine and if you were to ask the manufacturer they would tell you so.

I have never seen any 120V cord and plug connected equipment with a 15A plug that couldn't operate properly and safely when supplied by a 20A circuit.


-Hal

 

[romex jockey]

From the good book.....('17)

Receptacle. A contact device installed at the outlet for the
connection of an attachment plug, or for the direct connection
of electrical utilization equipment designed to mate with the
corresponding contact device. A single receptacle is a single
contact device with no other contact device on the same yoke.
A multiple receptacle is two or more contact devices on the
same yoke. (CMP-18)

Receptacle Outlet

. An outlet where one or more receptacles
are installed. (CMP-18)

We can install a lesser rated receptacle than OCPD server in the USofA , in fact we can daisy chain vs pigtail them all as well....

Up the street iirc, the CEC would differ.....

Across the pond, a UK ring circuit receptacle might be a good study

Our lovely manufactured homes would be as well, having the majority of rx 14-2 /15A , save for that which is NEC mandadted 12-2 /20A , in boxless backstabbed devices at that!

~RJ~

 

[LarryFine]

I agree with Hal. It's no different than a window A/C or a high-end refrigerator that specifies a dedicated 15a circuit. By the way, I take that to mean a minimum, but more that it refers to the plug's configuration. There is equipment that comes with 20a plugs, and their specs obviously mention 20a circuits.

There would be no issue with plugging any of this equipment into a 15a or 15/20a receptacle on a 20a circuit. I do not believe the manufacturer builds their equipment to rely on the rating of a 15a breaker to prevent damage or failure that a 20a breaker would allow. That's just how I see it. YMMV.

 

[MAC702]

...it refers to the plug's configuration. There is equipment that comes with 20a plugs, and their specs obviously mention 20a circuits.

There would be no issue with plugging any of this equipment into a 15a or 15/20a receptacle on a 20a circuit. I do not believe the manufacturer builds their equipment to rely on the rating of a 15a breaker to prevent damage or failure that a 20a breaker would allow. That's just how I see it. YMMV.

This is how I see it as well, and you put it nicely.

 

[romex jockey]

Yeah, I guess it does. My mind goes blank when confronted with something that doesn't make sense. hmy:

-Hal

oh, so you've a HB NEC too....?
~R:rotflmao:J~

 

[Malywr]

I agree with Hal. It's no different than a window A/C or a high-end refrigerator that specifies a dedicated 15a circuit. By the way, I take that to mean a minimum, but more that it refers to the plug's configuration. There is equipment that comes with 20a plugs, and their specs obviously mention 20a circuits.

There would be no issue with plugging any of this equipment into a 15a or 15/20a receptacle on a 20a circuit. I do not believe the manufacturer builds their equipment to rely on the rating of a 15a breaker to prevent damage or failure that a 20a breaker would allow. That's just how I see it. YMMV.

15A circuit dedicated is to Handle load drawing by that equivalent and to protect circuit inside wall
Equipment need additional protection or most likely has its own inside


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