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    My first install, questions thread.

    Starting my first install presently, I started slow. Red some books, took some classes, opened an account with CED/greentech, and started an account with an engendering firm that draws up plans that seem to sail through plancheck.

    My first job is on my own house... didn’t want to put any customer through any trial and error.


    System will be 26 Hyundai mono crystalline 290W modules, solar edge optimizers and a solar edge SE6000H

    Racking is Iron ridge XR10 and I’m doing supports on 48”

    * Here is my first question, how far apart do I need to space the rales apart. I didn’t find any specification. It seems like there is a lot of leeway so long as the modules land on the rails on the outer 12” or so.

    * 2nd question, and I think I know this... PV wire on the roof to the JB or combiner box and then #10THHN back to the inverter in a metal raceway marked with PV stickers and nothing else in it except the EGC? Is that right?
    Last edited by five.five-six; 07-02-19, 09:08 AM.

    #2
    * Here is my first question, how far apart do I need to space the rales apart. I didn’t find any specification. It seems like there is a lot of leeway so long as the modules land on the rails on the outer 12” or so.
    Yes, 12" is a good rule of thumb. If you want to get specific you can check the module manufacturer installation guides. They usually show the parameters of what range the panels can be supported at.

    * 2nd question, and I think I know this... PV wire on the roof to the JB or combiner box and then #10THHN back to the inverter in a metal raceway marked with PV stickers and nothing else in it except the EGC? Is that right?
    Correct. #10 is good.

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

    Comment


      #3
      Consult the module installation instructions for the maximum distance of the rail from the end of the module. I've generally found that if you are within the first 25% of the module length from the end, you're okay. 12" on a 60cell module has always been fine as far as I've seen.

      Comment


        #4
        What exactly is the j box/ combiner you refer to? Seems like the inverter would have a few mppt's so no need for a combiner. Does it have rapid shut down capability? Remember too, you can run pv wire right into the inverter if you want, no need to necessarily transition to thhn.
        Ethan Brush - East West Electric. NY, WA. MA

        "You can't generalize"

        Comment


          #5
          Sure but it’s going to be at least a 60 foot probably 80 foot run from the roof to the inverter. PV wire is expensive and I have tons of number 10 THHN. My understanding is the rapid shut down functionality is built into the optimizers
          Originally posted by electrofelon View Post
          What exactly is the j box/ combiner you refer to? Seems like the inverter would have a few mppt's so no need for a combiner. Does it have rapid shut down capability? Remember too, you can run pv wire right into the inverter if you want, no need to necessarily transition to thhn.

          Comment


            #6
            My other question is how do I transition from PV wire to rain tight raceway? I’m thinking of type SO connector?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by five.five-six View Post
              My other question is how do I transition from PV wire to rain tight raceway? I’m thinking of type SO connector?
              Something like this, but don't pay that price.
              https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Tight-.../dp/B071S7G2K6

              Comment


                #8
                How do you make the DC safe to work on.?

                I read you can open the string, short each module or cover each module with an opaque material.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by five.five-six View Post
                  How do you make the DC safe to work on.?

                  I read you can open the string, short each module or cover each module with an opaque material.
                  I thought you were using optimizers? The brands I'm aware of keep the voltage safe until you turn the system on.

                  If you're not using optimizers, then...


                  - You wire up everything other than the panels before you plug them into anything but each other.
                  - You disconnect the load (turn off inverter) before unplugging anything.
                  - You understand that this still doesn't necessarily make it safe.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jaggedben View Post
                    I thought you were using optimizers? The brands I'm aware of keep the voltage safe until you turn the system on.

                    If you're not using optimizers, then...


                    - You wire up everything other than the panels before you plug them into anything but each other.
                    - You disconnect the load (turn off inverter) before unplugging anything.
                    - You understand that this still doesn't necessarily make it safe.
                    Yes, that makes sense

                    Now, I have worked while on a roof many many times but this my first time working on a roof.

                    From these photos, is there anything obvious that I'm doing wrong? (besides dripping mastic everywhere, I picked up on that all by myself)


                    Tile roofs are a lot of work.






                    Comment


                      #11
                      Well...

                      Your work looks okay but I can't believe your tiles aren't on wood battens. Whoever installed your roof originally was seriously cutting corners. I don't think what you've done will actually make things any worse than before. But if one of our crews encountered something like that I would probably ask them to stop work while I discussed with the homeowner that they either get their roof redone or that we don't accept liability for leaks on a roof that wasn't properly built to begin with.

                      I guess this is your own home so no one will sue you if anything happens.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by jaggedben View Post
                        Well...

                        Your work looks okay but I can't believe your tiles aren't on wood battens. Whoever installed your roof originally was seriously cutting corners. I don't think what you've done will actually make things any worse than before. But if one of our crews encountered something like that I would probably ask them to stop work while I discussed with the homeowner that they either get their roof redone or that we don't accept liability for leaks on a roof that wasn't properly built to begin with.

                        I guess this is your own home so no one will sue you if anything happens.
                        I had thought the buttons were supposed to be every other rank and they were to keep the tiles from slipping off the roof. The roof is 5.5:12 and they nailed every rank. I nailed every rank I removed except the top rank which I used a dab of adhesive to hold to the tile above it.


                        I was also very concerned at one point that the roof felt really spongy for a residential roof but it turned out we were just having an earthquake at that moment.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by five.five-six View Post
                          Sure but it’s going to be at least a 60 foot probably 80 foot run from the roof to the inverter. PV wire is expensive and I have tons of number 10 THHN. My understanding is the rapid shut down functionality is built into the optimizers

                          Fair enough. It's maybe a $40 difference for your system, but if you have "free" thhn already, then certainly more. Although time and extra parts could chew thru that $40. On the other hand, PV wire is larger possibly requiring a larger pipe and not as super happy fun time to pull......

                          You are going to love your system. I look at my output everytime I go down to the solar shed.
                          Ethan Brush - East West Electric. NY, WA. MA

                          "You can't generalize"

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by electrofelon View Post
                            Fair enough. It's maybe a $40 difference for your system, but if you have "free" thhn already, then certainly more. Although time and extra parts could chew thru that $40. On the other hand, PV wire is larger possibly requiring a larger pipe and not as super happy fun time to pull......

                            You are going to love your system. I look at my output everytime I go down to the solar shed.

                            Not exactly free but last time I went to the scrap yard, there was a Berg electric apprentice in a Nisan Sentra using a hacksall to cut the ends off about 50 new spools of #10 he was told to scrap. I bought 10 rolls off him for $100 and he got out of taking them off the spool.



                            So, how are you guys that do tile notching the tiles? I picked up a m18 angle grinder and put a diamond blade on it. It works better than an abrasive disk but there has to be a better way.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by five.five-six View Post
                              So, how are you guys that do tile notching the tiles? I picked up a m18 angle grinder and put a diamond blade on it. It works better than an abrasive disk but there has to be a better way.
                              There's not really a better way. Turbo blade works better than a straight cutter. You might look at the the Ironridge tile replacement flashing, I've given them some thought but they're much more expensive than the hooks I'm using.

                              Comment

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