Split Bolt

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peter d said:
I've said it before and will say again that I cannot for the life of me understand why anyone would still use a split bolt for anything other than bare conductors in this day and age. :confused:
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I agree, I've never bought one!

Insulated taps for me....
 
I realy like the Polaris fittings. Never used the Kup-L-Taps. My first instincts are to be leary of anything that is insullation piercing. Perhaps someone with more experience here could asuage my fears.
 
iaov said:
I realy like the Polaris fittings. Never used the Kup-L-Taps. My first instincts are to be leary of anything that is insullation piercing. Perhaps someone with more experience here could asuage my fears.
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If it helps any, they have break-away bolt heads, so you can't under- or over-torque them.
 
iaov said:
I realy like the Polaris fittings. Never used the Kup-L-Taps. My first instincts are to be leary of anything that is insullation piercing. Perhaps someone with more experience here could asuage my fears.
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I have used them many times and as you are I am very leary of them so I have a tendancy to install a bit more analy than other methods. My bosses had me install them and they have never failed to my knowledge as of yet. Polaris is my first choice then splitbolt then whatever my personal preference.
 
iaov said:
I realy like the Polaris fittings. Never used the Kup-L-Taps. My first instincts are to be leary of anything that is insullation piercing. Perhaps someone with more experience here could asuage my fears.
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Haven't ya ever used those screw on caps for temporary lights?
 
LarryFine said:
I don't believe using a device rated for this use qualifies as "working hot" any more than touching the insulation of an energized conductor.

I don't know if you've ever seen or used one of these, but you'd have to go out of your way to try to make contact with any energized parts.
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I still do not believe they are designed for hot installation.

Regardless of being hard to make contact with live parts you would be in for a world of burns if you clamped into a faulted conductor.
 
iwire said:
I still do not believe they are designed for hot installation.
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It says they are on the page to which I linked, as long as there is no load.

Regardless of being hard to make contact with live parts you would be in for a world of burns if you clamped into a faulted conductor.
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That conductor would already be the energized one; it would be the tap conductor I just installed that could be the faulted one.

However, I always use my K-60 to check each of my new conductors against an energized conductor first, for just that reason.

In fact, I do the same thing the first time I energize any new circuit or conductors.
 
The Type KS-3 accommodates 3 maximum size conductors.
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(Page 4)
Apparently not UL or CSA listed?????

As for insulation piercing (I use the burndy version on page 36.) there is a time and place for them. I wouldn't use them in a gutter - but use them on OH service conductors all the time. Local POCO considers any splice they did not do temporary - so why waste time? (Although they often take a year to come out to re-splice)

Gutters or cans I use Polaris.
 
e57 said:
As for insulation piercing (I use the burndy version on page 36.)
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I found them on p21, where the ability to install them on hot conductors is repeated.

there is a time and place for them. I wouldn't use them in a gutter . . .
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I am curious as to why you would not, as I have; that's one of their main attractions.
 
I believe this falls in the realm of up, down, tape, no tape I never use split bolts.

One if there is an IR issue the repairs are a PIA.
Two I hate the way they look, layout is easier with a Polaris.
Three I do not lose anytime or money the customer gets billed the same wrap and tape or Polaris.
 
peter d said:
Which is cheaper - the labor to install a split bolt, of the labor to install a Polaris connector? I don't think you're seeing the forest for the trees. I would use the Polaris in a heartbeat.
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I agree, but. it being an existing installation, if he is lucky enough that the existing split bolts are rated for three...might be less expensive
 
Mule said:
Your talking to a EC that is works mostly T/M....:D A kerney properly wrapped takes longer than the polaris connector. So I either buy the $25 Polaris and asborb $10 in labor, or buy a $10 Kerney and absorb $25 in labor....

If you bid a job, the same thing occurs.....that is if your doing the work, not your hired hand...
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You purchase a $25 Kearny, but charge $31.25 for it, charge for your labor and save so much time, that you have more time for other work, not loosing any labor time at all...just passing onto another job, of which you will charge for the material and your labor.

At the end of the year, you have made the same labor money, but more in material, profit margin is up and all are happy, as your customers have paid just a little less than before
I call that a win-win situation.
 
i like the polaris connectors better then split-bolts, but when wiring motors i prefer a split-bolt for better flexibility inside the peckerhead
 
i slipped and busted my knuckles the other day making up a burndy with 4/0 conductors

reason why i like burndys so much is because i enjoy the entire process from twisting the nut to taping it up real good with rubber tape and electrical tape
 
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