point of attachment for service entrance

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toma

Member
Location
PA
I need some help...A customers point of attachment(screw in type, porcialin) pulled out of the wood frame of the home. The customer was told by poco that it was her responsiblity to get it reattached. Any suggestions on how to reattach it?
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
Buy a new one, drill a new pilot hole and screw it in. POCO will reattach to the new point. If the drop is hanging by the weatherhead I would tie it off with some 1/4" rope until the POCO can connect permanently.
 

480sparky

Senior Member
Location
Iowegia
In our area the POCO requires all new point of attachments to be thru-bolts. Even though it is not equally enforced.

Same here. Wood-screw types are no longer allowed.... probably for the same reason the OP has problems. They pull out too easily after water infiltrates behind them and starts to rot the sheathing & framing away.

A long eyebolt through the frame is 100% required here.

I would add to drikk through.........

Starting the weekend a wee bit early, are we now? (using very Irish baroque).....
smiley_drunksinging.gif
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
In our area the POCO requires all new point of attachments to be thru-bolts. Even though it is not equally enforced.

Our area also does but if there is no attic I will use a new screw in style. Here is what to do. Screw in the new lag into a new place. Try and catch a rafter tail if it is on that end of the roof. Then take a rope and put it thru the loop of the insulator and pull the wire tight then attach the grip to the new insulator. Remove rope---:D
 

electricmanscott

Senior Member
Location
Boston, MA
Our area also does but if there is no attic I will use a new screw in style. Here is what to do. Screw in the new lag into a new place. Try and catch a rafter tail if it is on that end of the roof. Then take a rope and put it thru the loop of the insulator and pull the wire tight then attach the grip to the new insulator. Remove rope---:D

If the drop is too heavy use a come along.

Easy fix. :smile:
 

hurk27

Senior Member
I would add to drikk through into the attic and use an eyebolt with nuts and washers.

So the next tree pulls the whole wall down:rolleyes:

I was somewhere, one time(cant remember where) where the POCO had a pullapart connection point at the pole, this was to allow a drop to pull free if a tree came down, I sure wish they would use them here, there is no kind of system that would stop a 4,000# oak from taking a drop down. the more you try to anchor it to a house the more damage it does to the house and service.:confused:
 

M. D.

Senior Member
I agree ,.. it should be able to support the cable under normal conditions .. I quite frankly would want mine to rip out of the wall,.. as opposed to ripping the wall out.
 

480sparky

Senior Member
Location
Iowegia
I agree ,.. it should be able to support the cable under normal conditions .. I quite frankly would want mine to rip out of the wall,.. as opposed to ripping the wall out.

I'd be curious to see if a tree falling on a service drop could actually cause an average wall to 'fall over'. The ones I've repaired over the years where there's any eyebolt through the framing only caused the wedge clamp to fail.
 

hurk27

Senior Member
We had enough storm damage a couple weeks age that would support this, in the past I had always tried to make the point of connection so strong that the wire or connections at the weather head would break or pull apart, but with the crimps put on by a hydraulic crimp tool that the POCO uses here it didn't matter, as I just had to reinstall several services that were still pulled off the house, some of the damage was the failure of the studs in the gable broke and pulled right through the wall pulling off the plywood and siding, which had to be replaced before I could even reattach to the house. also the service wire was pulled so hard it broke the plastic mounts in the meter can and pulled the connections right out of the meter. which had to be replaced, so a quick job turned into a two or more days of trying to get these peoples power back on, but I had one house that had a PVC riser that was just pulled off the wall, it snapped the male adapter at the hub, but as far as damage to the house and meter, there was none and had that service back up and running in just an hour. the male adapter even kept the wire from shorting out at the hub, which can cause allot of damage too. with the whole riser coming down it allowed enough slack for the drop to hit the ground without pulling the wires out of the meter. also I leave the neutral longer so the hots are pulled out first before the neutral. If they can even be puled out?
 

M. D.

Senior Member
Scott , who posts here often found ,..after the last big ice storm here,.. that by far the type of service that out performed all others was SE cable ,.. it pulls right out before there is real damage to it in in many cases. I'll see if I can find his post...
 

M. D.

Senior Member
Here is relavent his statement

.
...In my ice storm experience se cable is actually the preferred method. Of the many services I repaired during "big Ice '08" (the media will promote anything) se cable was the easiest to get back in service. Clip it back up and reconnect. Conduit methods would be broken and need replacement.....

You know for a long time we tried to fight earthquakes by making buildings rigid,.. it turns out it's better if they can move a bit...
 
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