Euro/African 240 single phase

[Toneone]

Currently stationed in Africa. Local power where I am is 240V per phase, 400 phase to phase at 50Hz. I have been dealing with several loads made in, and for use within the U.S. Most of the electronics (TVs, computer) do not have issues.

However, others are having issues. Some of the loads, like a few clothes dryers, are 120/240, but would normally require 120 off of two legs and a neutral (3 wire). Currently, they are connected to the available single phase 240 (with nothing to the second hot leg input) ground and neutral. Ground and neutral are bounded at the main. The dryers are running for 30 seconds and cutting off. Shortly after, an audible click will sound allowing them to start back (over temp reset??). There are a few resistors on a circuit board in the back panel showing extreme amounts of overheating.

My main question here is how will a 120/240 load like this react to a single phase 240 supplied to one side. I am thinking the current will not behave the same. Also there's the freq, only 50Hz when the dryer calls for 60. Don?t think this is as much an issue. But what about frequency in other loads? High intensity lights or other various motors for example. Or are there any other loads I need to be specifically careful with. I understand the motors will run slower but overall affects or damage??

 

[Rick Christopherson]

Your dryer is dying (literally) because you are putting 240 volts into a system expecting 120 volts. I see that you are listing yourself as being in the electrical industry, but you are making a typical DIY'er mistake of assuming the neutral wire is something different from any other current carrying conductor, except for the fact it is the grounded conductor. You need to hire someone that understands the two system types and can figure out how to change the bonding in the appliance.

 

[Brian Oshman]

The motor and controls are 120 volts and will never run there without incorporating a step down transformer. The heater element will not have a problem.

 

[norcal]

There is also the issue of the dryer timer on 50hz. Buy appliances made for the local market.

 

[PetrosA]

Any older dryer with a two-wire hook-up and mechanical timer will be fine (I had one for ten years and sold it in perfect running condition). A newer one with a three-wire hook-up and an electronic timer will not be fine. On an older model, hot and neutral get hooked up to the "hots" lugs and the frame gets grounded. If you don't understand how it works, like the others wrote, hire someone who does.

 

[dbuckley]

Someone outside North America that understands how North American electricity works - they'll be quite hard to find

 

[norcal]

Any older dryer with a two-wire hook-up and mechanical timer will be fine (I had one for ten years and sold it in perfect running condition). A newer one with a three-wire hook-up and an electronic timer will not be fine. On an older model, hot and neutral get hooked up to the "hots" lugs and the frame gets grounded. If you don't understand how it works, like the others wrote, hire someone who does.

A timer built for 60 HZ will operate slower on 50 HZ, a clothes dryer built for the US market is not going to like 230V fed to the 120V motor/timer/drum light(if so equipped).