Let's Make Some Holes

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A hole hawg with a ship auger is the way to go. We've used them since 1972 and they are a hard drill to top. A word of caution when using hole saws use a different drill. The larger hole saws tend to grab and a hole hawg is not forgiving it will break something or throw you.
 
augie47 said:
With the 1-1/8 auger, if you are drilling 2 x 4s would this not present a problem with 300.4(A)(1) ? With the actual size of 3-1/2", even if you bored dead center you would technically be in vilolation.
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It would only be a violation in 2x4s if nail plates aren't used.

re: the Hole Hawg, doesn't it have a torque control/clutch to keep the drill from breaking a wrist if (when) it hangs?

laketime, out of those two I'd get the variable speed.
 
JFletcher said:
It would only be a violation in 2x4s if nail plates aren't used.
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that what where I was leading, I forgot to "fill in the blanks", my point was with the 1-1/8 bit & 2 x 4s, one would need a barrel of nail-plates if 300.4 was rigidly enforced.
 
i use dewalt

i use dewalt

I got a clutch controled dewalt joist and stud drill.( it's got a winding control feature)
they came out with it last year i believe. I do both Electrical and Plumbing so this one comes in handy , since you can drill up to 6" holes with a Hole saw. You can imagine you need a safety feature if you are to go that big.
I've used the right angle drill milwakee all the time for electricall. but i like the dewalt better for bigger holes. Definately selffeed brill bits though.
Sorry to lazy to take a picture now.
 
With the 1-1/8 auger, if you are drilling 2 x 4s would this not present a problem with 300.4(A)(1) ? With the actual size of 3-1/2", even if you bored dead center you would technically be in vilolation.
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Not unless the cable is on the outer edge of the hole :grin:

I have done the math before and I know what you mean but rhe 1 1/8 bit is the standard out here.


As far as the plumber/electrician model? I would go with the plumber's. No need for variable speed when drilling studs with an auger bit.

I also liked the older models placement of the reverse switch. I always have to look for the new one. The old one was right there on the side at your thumb. You WILL be using the reverse switch. Auger bits tend to not cut cleanly thru the back side and pull themselves in thru the hole.
 
220/221 said:
Not unless the cable is on the outer edge of the hole :grin:

I have done the math before and I know what you mean but rhe 1 1/8 bit is the standard out here.
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Notice what the Code actually says:(A) Cables and Raceways Through Wood Members.
(1) Bored Holes. In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is installed through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood members, holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 32 mm (1? in.) from the nearest edge of the wood member.
That 's why I mentioned "literal" enforcement. Following the rule, it makes no difference where the cable is (within the hole), it's the edge of the hole. With a 1-1/8 but it's mathematical impossible to keep the edge of the hole 1-1/4 from the edge of a 2 x 4.
 
480sparky said:
I have the same thing, but it's not a dedicated drill, but rather it fits into the chuck of any ?" drill.


BTW, Pierre, you many want to straighten out that one box.... looks a wee bit crooked.:grin:
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This picture is a job I was visiting, not one of my actual jobs when I was contracting. That box is kind of crooked, isn't it:grin:




augie47 said:
Notice what the Code actually says:(A) Cables and Raceways Through Wood Members.
(1) Bored Holes. In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is installed through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood members, holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 32 mm (1? in.) from the nearest edge of the wood member.
That 's why I mentioned "literal" enforcement. Following the rule, it makes no difference where the cable is (within the hole), it's the edge of the hole. With a 1-1/8 but it's mathematical impossible to keep the edge of the hole 1-1/4 from the edge of a 2 x 4.
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I point out the wording quite a bit. The guys usually get mad. ;)
 
Pierre C Belarge said:
Here is a picture of the gooseneck I used. There is little need for a ladder in standard 8ft ceilings, and virtually no bending down as well for lower holes. I used these many, many years.
GooseNeckDrill2.jpg
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I would be lost without this tool. I also use it for drilling thru studs since it is easier than changing drills to the right angle. I do own a right angle also but I tend to use this one more often.
 
This really is a boring subject, isn't it? :grin:


480sparky said:
1675.jpg
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I have one of them. Torquey, but the angle handle minimizes problems.



guitarsarge said:
old-hand-drill-small.jpg





Here you go...
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I have one of those, too. The first cordless drill. ;)

nakulak said:
BT45D.jpg





gas powered baby (you can get a right angle attachment)

(plus the fumes run the other trades out)
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I don't have one of those, but the fumes may keep bugs away, too.

billdozier said:
Cant imagine drilling a house with a cordless drill.
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I dunno. The 36v DeWalt will do it.




Pierre C Belarge said:
GooseNeckDrill2.jpg
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Yep, got that setup, too. It's also great for drilling down on an outside wall, because you can angle back in and miss the band joist.

Also, the angle head that comes with the drill itself doesn't have a 1:1 gear ratio, so you can mount it for more torque or more speed.



Every drill has its use. I really do use the 36v DeWalt for rough drilling unless there's convenient power handy. I don't unroll a cord unless I have to.
 
Irwin Speedbor bits

Irwin Speedbor bits

laketime said:
What drill is the best for drilling out wood studs for housing rough in?
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I like the Milwaukee RAD for angle drilling. But for straight drilling I like my 24volt cordless Dewalt with the Irwin brand Speedbor bits available at the blue box! They cut 3 times faster than anything out there!!
 
guitarsarge said:
I've always thought that 1.25" was to not only protect the wire, but the integrity of the 2x4 member. Isn't it 40%?
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No, the section is written solely with the protection of the cable in mind. You would need to look to the building codes (and documentation from the engineered lumber company's spec, I believe) to know if you can drill a hole in a piece of wood in the first place.

We can drill a 2" hole (or a 2" notch) in a 2x4, cover both sides with a nailplate, and the NEC is satisfied. That doesn't mean the framer's inspector would be happy with us in some instances.
 
Well, that's what I meant:wink:

I think from a framing standpoint, it's 40% for a 2x4. Of course i realize the nec doesn't cover framing, I think they just coincide...
 
Nvm, I tried to edit my post, but must've done something wrong:-?

Anyway, I see your point as long as you protected the wire with the plate.

here's what it would look like though:grin:

2x4.jpg
 
guitarsarge said:
Well, that's what I meant:wink:

I think from a framing standpoint, it's 40% for a 2x4. Of course i realize the nec doesn't cover framing, I think they just coincide...
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Many interior walls are not framed with 2x4s.

The NEC could not care less about the structural integrity of the building, the codes will not normally coincide.
 
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