residential garage/ work shop

Status
Not open for further replies.

Riograndeelectric

Senior Member
I am bidding on a residential detached garage the owner want to use a a wood working shop for his home improvements.
In lloking at the code I can t see that this would be classified a hazard location due to dust and gas vapors. since it is not a commercial garage. the owner want to have several floor receptacles installed din the slab. the pals spec the building as a garage

is there code requirements that pertain to residential garage as far as mounting heights for outlets. dust proof fixtures etc. the owner is planning on installing a dust collection system . I am not sure how to bid this. do I bid as a residential detached garage or as a work shop and then does the dust come into play from being a wood working area?
 
I would contact the bldg department to see what they may have to say about this type of home shop.

With my experience in inspecting these types of shops, I would without question try to persuade the customer to not install floor receptacles. The amount of wood dust that accumulates can be incredible.
 

480sparky

Senior Member
Location
Iowegia
I don't think I've ever seen a resi garage considered anything more than a big box where you store stuff like holiday decorations and vehicles.
 
I would strongly recommend to the customer to treat it as a hazardous location. The floor outlets I would not install. Again it all depends of the amount of work being done and what the bldg dept says.
 

augie47

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee
Occupation
State Electrical Inspector (Retired)
I agree that your first stop should be Building Inspection or your electrical AHJ.
From my experience you are probably in a small minority in considering this as classified. Not saying it should not be, just saying I have never seen it go that way.
Even if you decide that it's not necessary to go Classified, I'd discuss with the owner the steps that you could take to minimize hazards such as no floor outlets,
 

growler

Senior Member
Location
Atlanta,GA
With my experience in inspecting these types of shops, I would without question try to persuade the customer to not install floor receptacles. The amount of wood dust that accumulates can be incredible.

I wouldn't want any floor receptacles either. I did one like this and I did use weatherproof boxes and dust covers but that was for practical purposes. It's still just permitted as a garage. What counts is what is listed for use as and not what the homeowner does with it.

If it's really a hazardous location I doubt if it would be allowed in a residential area. People do wood working projects all the time in their basements and garages.
 

Howard Burger

Senior Member
ceiling locking recepts as alternate?

ceiling locking recepts as alternate?

I'm in the process of having a woodworking shop built next to my house. I'm puting the recepts for table saw and future jointer in the 9 ft ceiling with locking recepts. If his ceiling is this height, you might suggest it. Having the cords up like this will also keep them out of the way as he moves around the equipment.
 

wireguru

Senior Member
I'm in the process of having a woodworking shop built next to my house. I'm puting the recepts for table saw and future jointer in the 9 ft ceiling with locking recepts. If his ceiling is this height, you might suggest it. Having the cords up like this will also keep them out of the way as he moves around the equipment.


and if the ceiling is higher you can always install cord drops
 

cowboyjwc

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Simi Valley, CA
Wood shops used to be a classified location, but not any more. And a single man "hobby" wood shop would never create enough dust to be a danger.

That said, I would also try to get them away from floor outlets. I agree that cord drops may be the way to go.
 

Riograndeelectric

Senior Member
now if the the building is called a gargae as far as the submitted plans go is a residential Gage classified as hazardous location. I Can not seem to find any thing in the code that says one way or another. I just could not imagine installing floor outlets if this some day could be used as a garage since it will be built as a garage but used as a wood shop.
 

e57

Senior Member
Wood shops used to be a classified location, but not any more. And a single man "hobby" wood shop would never create enough dust to be a danger.

That said, I would also try to get them away from floor outlets. I agree that cord drops may be the way to go.
I'm there with ya on this...

FYI there are huge numbers of guys with more and better stuff than most pro shops - that doesn't mean they are going commercial or would ever produce a condition to warrent any chapter 5 methods.

I have a wood/metal hide away in my garage and would have some big toys if I could afford them.

I would suggest the cord drops, and if he is stuck on floor outlets give some guidance away from them, I am sure he'll appreciate the knowledge. I would maybe opt for 3/4" stubs capped off to hard-wire, and a California 50a for a spider box at the door.

And now sit back and relax for a little of where this guy comes from:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/low-entertainment-center-pt-1/http://thewoodwhisperer.com/2009-fresh-wood-student-competition/
 
Even though you can make a good buck on floor plugs I try to avoid them even inside a home, Have you ever seem a floor box in a hardwood floor after a 2year old has emptied his juice bottle into one.
 

wireguru

Senior Member
Woodhead @ 6'6".

yep these
IMG_0723-800.jpg
(except with SOOW cable, not the SJTW i have this one on) and twistlock connectors (female cord cap) for single machines, 220 stuff, etc

the 50a CS (california special) -(the 50a 4 wire twistlock used on construction spiderboxes) is a great idea.
 

e57

Senior Member
and a California 50a for a spider box at the door.

What's a CA 50a?
The 50a cord on spider boxes - I don't thing any home or pro shop should be without one.

Essentially you can take a 50a panel and put it where you want to use it.

Stuff like this below: Or this:
powerdistr.jpg
03cjohnston1ph03_866262551.jpg
http://cepnow.com/powerdistr.jpg


I have a few homemade adaptors - a few are nominees for the violation pictures... :roll: One for a 50a welder (legal) and another for for 240 30a, and 120 20 twist-locks* (full-blown illegal) and 50' cord - I can bring it out back and work out there if i want. (*I'm gonna build a panel set-up like that NEMA3 above to replace my cheater adaptor. ;))
 

mcclary's electrical

Senior Member
Location
VA
I worked at a sawmill that employed 140 people and produced sawdust by the truck load, for ten years. There wasn't the first classified area in the whole place except inside of one particular silo. And there was no electric in that. (and fuel pumps, of course) You're better off stubbing up pipe where he wants his machines and mounting receptacle above floor or coming down from the ceiling w/ cords. The floor boxes are a fire waiting to happen unless he vacuums them out everyday! Even though he's gonna have a dust collection system, that just means what gets into the receptacle is going to be superfine dust.
 

e57

Senior Member
A "one-man" "hobby" work-shop is not a classified area.... To bid or consider it that way would be over-priced and way over-built. Cord drops for a few portable power tools - sure. Floor outlets - just a bad idea.

But I was thinking - If I were retired - like that's gonna happen.... :roll: And I had some money and some land to build a dream shop - what would it look like electrically????? ;)

  1. 3 ? 208 via phase convertor if required.... Some of the really good stuff is 3 ?....
  2. Duct/gutter all walls
  3. Walker floor duct w/ activations for flex stubs in a grid.... Put equipment anywhere, and be able to move it later.
  4. 50a CA cord at the door... For outside portable panel.
attachment.php
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top