changing water heater elements

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IMO (not that anyone asked, lol) chaning out the element without draining the tank is a disservice to the customer. It is a perfect time to clear out any sediment build up in the bottom of the tank.

I don't change both elements, because the bottom element does the majority of the work. Very seldom will the top element go bad.
 
hardworkingstiff said:
IMO (not that anyone asked, lol) chaning out the element without draining the tank is a disservice to the customer. It is a perfect time to clear out any sediment build up in the bottom of the tank.

I don't change both elements, because the bottom element does the majority of the work. Very seldom will the top element go bad.
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If they want, I will get out the shop vac and clean away. I have little pieces of pipe and rubber tubing that work ok. My time is their time. Some just want hot water ASAP as they have other things to do.
 
Oh My Now you you have to drain the tank to do the job and by the time you are done with all the labor charges you might as well sell them a new water heater as the price is close to the same..

even though it seems straight forward to do and simple enough when you are done the customer would better served with new energy efficient water heater. Besides the hassle in collecting the bill.
 
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In response to the original "the water heater is in front of the service," sell them a tankless electric or gas heater and mount to the side of the service if there is room. Then change out the service. Call your plumber buddy up and have him work with you, unless you use an electric tankless, then your license will probably cover you.
 
jes25 said:
Is there anything I need to look for to assess condition of the old water heater?
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LarryFine said:
You did check for 240v to the water heater, right?
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Checking for the correct power at the water heater is about all you need to do.

If the power is correct then just let your buddy the plumber come in a sell them a new water heater. Explain to the plumber your problem with clearance and see if he can move the water heater to a better location. A tankless water heater may solve the problem and then you can do what electricians do best, electrical work.

If the solution to the problem is an electrical tankless heater make sure you install a big enough service to handle the power requirements. Some of those draw quite a bit of current so you may need a 200 amp service.
 
I have a 6-year warranty water heater that is now going into it's 10th year of service. No sign of rusty water or leaks yet, but I am going to replace it as a preventative measure.
 
Ended up being a bad disconnect switch.

Darn, after all this I really wanted to change those elements
 
peter d said:
I have a 6-year warranty water heater that is now going into it's 10th year of service. No sign of rusty water or leaks yet, but I am going to replace it as a preventative measure.
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Great Scott lad!! How long have you known about this!! You are are livin' on borrowed time.
Get out of the house and call for help from a safe location.
 
Why do people call them HWH, Hot Water Heaters.....???

If the water is allready hot, then why heat it? What they need is a CWH, or just plain old WH!

~Matt
 
TOOL_5150 said:
Why do people call them HWH, Hot Water Heaters.....???

If the water is allready hot, then why heat it? What they need is a CWH, or just plain old WH!

~Matt
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That's right up there with "under counter lights". I can understand under-cabinet lights OR counter lights. The other one just confuses me.

Mark
 
Dennis Alwon said:
Turn the water off to the tank and make sure all faucets are closed. If it is a screw in element turn it out and quickly insert the new element. You should loose less than a quart of water.
Otherwise you will need to drain the tank which takes forever unless you have a small pump that will attach to a hose.

Honestly, I also have been told if the heater is over 7 years then change it. It is amazing that the life expectancy of a heater is so small. What a waste of money.
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OK!!...what happens when the lime/rust comes out, blocks the element hole, or the element has blown completely out and has gotten twisted? You'll lose a quart, plus about 20 gal. Visualize the look on the HO's face when that happens..ask me how I know.
...Life expectantcy depends..on water hardness, and incoming temperature...most tank failures occur because of thermal shock.

rich000 said:
Easy to change out the elements. If you are going to drain the tank, allow yourself at least an hour.



If you want to save time, just get some towels, have the new element ready, shut off the water supply to the HWH, pull out the old one, and quickly put in the new one. There should be minimal water coming out.

I used to drain the tank. Then I saw a plumber do it the above way and I was like, duh!

Make sure it is the element and not the thermostat first. Also, if you replace one element, go ahead and replace both.
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True. And if one t-stat is bad, replace both, especially if they are made by Apcom.

ItsHot said:
I would hope that the elements are screw ins, and not bolt ups!
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There might still be a few out there with wrap-around (belt) elements!

mivey said:
I usually loose less than a cup. You can slap your palm over the hole while getting the new element ready.

A blown out element can get hung up so have towels handy just in case.

I usually convert those to screw-ins. They make an adapter plate.
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why bother? I haven't done that in 25 yrs.

ItsHot said:
Is this a plumber's forum?:roll:
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Here I am...fire away! Let's talk reverse osmosis!

TOOL_5150 said:
Why do people call them HWH, Hot Water Heaters.....???

If the water is allready hot, then why heat it? What they need is a CWH, or just plain old WH!

~Matt
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Why is electric BB/duct-mounted reheat different then a toaster?
 
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