I am going to be replacing light poles in a parking lot, the old mounting bolts are rusted and we will grind them off to drill new holes and then epoxy new mounting bolts in the cement. I have not done ths before, I was goimg to use a Hilti adhesive, HY 150 Max adhesive, How long do the bolts have to be? Any advice someone can give on process and procedure?
New anchor bolts for light poles
- Thread starter strand16
- Start date
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laketime
Senior Member
Contact Hilti for an engineering judgment. They will probably need information on the poles (height,weight). They will fax you a detail that shows all the information you will need. Highly suggest you go this route, you do not want a pole falling over and you saying well i thought...
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
Here's some info from HILTI:
http://www.hilti.com/holcom/page/module/product/prca_rangedetail.jsf?lang=en&nodeId=-11484
http://www.hilti.com/holcom/page/module/product/prca_rangedetail.jsf?lang=en&nodeId=-11484
- Location
- Bremerton, Washington
Yes I agree on asking Hilti. The following has to be designed
Strength of adhesive, or really how deep the hole has to be
yield strength of fasteners
This is all determined by the height and wind load on the pole.
Ask Hilti on use of rotory impact drill bit vs core drill.
Strength of adhesive, or really how deep the hole has to be
yield strength of fasteners
This is all determined by the height and wind load on the pole.
Ask Hilti on use of rotory impact drill bit vs core drill.
fishin' electrician
Senior Member
- Location
- Connecticut
Agree with others, contact HILTI. It's been a while, but I could swear we used HILTI kits that had the adhesive and the bolts packaged together.
mcclary's electrical
Senior Member
- Location
- VA
Heat the nuts up 'til they're red hot with a torch and put an impact om them, they'll come off. After you remove pole. Then run a dye over the threads and put a new nut on. (only if the bolt didn't rust out)
I've never used epoxy on tall poles (20' plus) Seems like a lot of damn drilling. I would think you'd have to go in at leats 24" as the stock bolts are usually 30".
What I do (sometimes) is take out enough concrete to get ahold of a couple inches of good clean thread and install rod couplings/all thread. I don't know if it's engineer approved but with 4, 3/4" bolts, spaced about 6" apart, tightened all the way into a rod coupling on both ends, the chance of a failure seems miniscule.
Don't forget to deal with the water issue that caused the bolts to rust in the first place or someone will be back doing it again. Last year, in a water retention area, I simply raised the base about 24" (with threaded rod and couplings) to get it out of the flood water level.
What I do (sometimes) is take out enough concrete to get ahold of a couple inches of good clean thread and install rod couplings/all thread. I don't know if it's engineer approved but with 4, 3/4" bolts, spaced about 6" apart, tightened all the way into a rod coupling on both ends, the chance of a failure seems miniscule.
Don't forget to deal with the water issue that caused the bolts to rust in the first place or someone will be back doing it again. Last year, in a water retention area, I simply raised the base about 24" (with threaded rod and couplings) to get it out of the flood water level.
jwjrw
Senior Member
Soak em with a rust pent. for several days then use the torch. I agree if its just surface rust this is the way to go..
- Location
- Simi Valley, CA
Since the bases are usually engineered, I would ask for an engineered fix.
- Location
- Logan, Utah
- Status