Pond Aeration...

[1793]

I have a job to look at to get power to an Aeration System for a pond. I've been told that the aerator is cord connected 120V and that a 20A circuit would be great. The folks installing the Aerator is also going to install an Algae Control System in the future that requires AC power so they would like a 2 gang box for the Aerator and Algae Control.

The pond is about 200 to 220 feet from the house so I have to deal with Voltage Drop. I have about 40' inside the house before I go external.

I would like to know if I can run 12/2 NM in the house then switch to #6 THHN/THWN underground from the house to the pond?

As always, thanks in advance

 

[kwired]

I have a job to look at to get power to an Aeration System for a pond. I've been told that the aerator is cord connected 120V and that a 20A circuit would be great. The folks installing the Aerator is also going to install an Algae Control System in the future that requires AC power so they would like a 2 gang box for the Aerator and Algae Control.

The pond is about 200 to 220 feet from the house so I have to deal with Voltage Drop. I have about 40' inside the house before I go external.

I would like to know if I can run 12/2 NM in the house then switch to #6 THHN/THWN underground from the house to the pond?

As always, thanks in advance

That should be acceptable but I would consider running the #6 all the way to the house panel and an extra conductor to have 120/240 and a small panel at the pond. Someday there will be a desire to add something else and you are already covered. I would also oversize the raceway so that larger conductors could be pulled later if needed. Does not cost much now compared to digging it all up later.

If you do not want to go with 120/240 and a panel, then I would still install larger raceway now.

 

[1793]

That should be acceptable but I would consider running the #6 all the way to the house panel and an extra conductor to have 120/240 and a small panel at the pond. Someday there will be a desire to add something else and you are already covered. I would also oversize the raceway so that larger conductors could be pulled later if needed. Does not cost much now compared to digging it all up later.

If you do not want to go with 120/240 and a panel, then I would still install larger raceway now.

Bold by me:

In the house running NM would be MUCH easier and less expensive than running conduit. Running the #6 in the house would pose one small problem, in 6/3 NM the Ground is only a #10 and I would need to have a full sized #6.

 

[augie47]

If you are under the '08 Code you might take a look at Art 682. I'm still becoming acquainted with the Article, but it appears your installation would fall under the venue of Art 682 and 682.31 requires an insulated grounding conductor and you may need a equipotential grid if you install control equipment (682.33).

 

[kwired]

Bold by me:

In the house running NM would be MUCH easier and less expensive than running conduit. Running the #6 in the house would pose one small problem, in 6/3 NM the Ground is only a #10 and I would need to have a full sized #6.

Installing ENT is about as easy as installing NM cable and you can use a conduit body instead of a splicing box at the transition point of interior to exterior.

You just need to watch for total number of bends you make.

If you need to fish someplace it fishes rather easy. I don't see the 40 feet in the house raising the total cost by enough to make a significant change in the total cost of your project.

 

[Buck Parrish]

I just done on. They wanted a 120 volt outlet at the ponds edge. So that's what they got. about 8ft' away on a retainer wall. UF- 12-2 (gfci -wr).

I let them plug what ever they wanted to in it.

I had to set a meter and small panel about 50 ft. away, permits , inspections.

 

[1793]

If you are under the '08 Code you might take a look at Art 682. I'm still becoming acquainted with the Article, but it appears your installation would fall under the venue of Art 682 and 682.31 requires an insulated grounding conductor and you may need a equipotential grid if you install control equipment (682.33).

The equipment is going to sit, I think, 10' above the high water level of the Pond. I should know more in the morning I'll try to get more photo's

Installing ENT is about as easy as installing NM cable and you can use a conduit body instead of a splicing box at the transition point of interior to exterior.

You just need to watch for total number of bends you make.

If you need to fish someplace it fishes rather easy. I don't see the 40 feet in the house raising the total cost by enough to make a significant change in the total cost of your project.

In the House alone I would have 3 90's. Then I would have to set a box on the surface inside on the drywall then go through the wall to an LB or box then go underground.

I just done on. They wanted a 120 volt outlet at the ponds edge. So that's what they got. about 8ft' away on a retainer wall. UF- 12-2 (gfci -wr).

I let them plug what ever they wanted to in it.

I had to set a meter and small panel about 50 ft. away, permits , inspections.

No need for the meter at this stage.

 

[kwired]

In the House alone I would have 3 90's. Then I would have to set a box on the surface inside on the drywall then go through the wall to an LB or box then go underground.

Why do you need the inside box? Just run to the outside box or conduit body. You are still 90 degrees short of max bends and if you have a box or conduit body you start your count over on the next section of raceway.

If you want to follow some peoples advice you have to splice the NM cable in an inside box anyhow because it can not be used outdoors, so you have almost the same thing with that method.

 

[roger]

Why not use MC inside the house? You can make the transition in a W/P box where you enter the house.


Roger

 

[Cavie]

I have a job to look at to get power to an Aeration System for a pond. I've been told that the aerator is cord connected 120V and that a 20A circuit would be great. The folks installing the Aerator is also going to install an Algae Control System in the future that requires AC power so they would like a 2 gang box for the Aerator and Algae Control.

The pond is about 200 to 220 feet from the house so I have to deal with Voltage Drop. I have about 40' inside the house before I go external.

I would like to know if I can run 12/2 NM in the house then switch to #6 THHN/THWN underground from the house to the pond?

As always, thanks in advance

I'm and old fart so be nice. In dealing with voltage drop the small wire goes at the end of the circuit yes? Or should I have skipped VD101 and gone to VD102? I think #6 is overkill. Without doing the math I would run 10/3 w/ground from the panel the lake and call it a day.

 

[Buck Parrish]

I'm and old fart so be nice. In dealing with voltage drop the small wire goes at the end of the circuit yes? Or should I have skipped VD101 and gone to VD102? I think #6 is overkill. Without doing the math I would run 10/3 w/ground from the panel the lake and call it a day.

Me too...............

 

[1793]

I'm and old fart so be nice. In dealing with voltage drop the small wire goes at the end of the circuit yes? Or should I have skipped VD101 and gone to VD102? I think #6 is overkill. Without doing the math I would run 10/3 w/ground from the panel the lake and call it a day.

The Aerator was installed today and the total length of the run, Panel to Pond, is 220'. According to one of the On-Line VD Calculators a 220', 20A circuit with #8 THWN would have a VD of 5.6%. For #6 on the same run it would be 3.5%. To me the difference between the two would not be that much.

A #10 would have a VD of 8.8%, too much for me.

 

[chris kennedy]

I'm and old fart so be nice.

OK.

Hey Butch, boy you look fantastic!

In dealing with voltage drop the small wire goes at the end of the circuit yes?

I don't think the electrons care, we are dealing with overall circuit resistance.

 

[roger]

The Aerator was installed today and the total length of the run, Panel to Pond, is 220'. According to one of the On-Line VD Calculators a 220', 20A circuit with #8 THWN would have a VD of 5.6%. For #6 on the same run it would be 3.5%. To me the difference between the two would not be that much.

A #10 would have a VD of 8.8%, too much for me.

But what is the actual load per the name plate?

Roger

 

[1793]

But what is the actual load per the name plate?

Roger

That is a good question. When I was out there today the HO was gone and the unit is locked so I could not see the nameplate.

I'm trying to go ahead and cover my bases with the possible addition of another load in the near future.