Looking for a good sealant for soldered wires

[hardworkingstiff]

This stuff looks perfect. Does it handle the heat alright when the heatshrink is being applied?

Is this a concern?

? E-6100? is not recommended for any items that come into contact with food, drinking water or animals.

 

[TwinCitySparky]

Is this a concern?

They are under the carousels milking platform

I am assuming not.

 

[e57]

I have had a few problems - or should I say - have been present when a few restaurants have had health and safety inspections where certain chemicals and adhesives have been applied... Like caulking of sheets on walls and openings in walls for wash down - and they have had to prove that it was safe to have near and in wash down areas where food was prepared. I'm not completely clear on the particulars - but it why I brought this up earlier. apparently some adhesives gas-off, or shed some chemicals that are not hip around food and can't be used in restaurants???

I figure it might be something to look into...

Anyway - you might want to give thought of casting the section of cable in a mold. Like make a shape - smooth and rounded around a sample cable - then make a casting of that shape to repeat. Then use some sort of silicone (food safe?) - wait to cure - then make more... That way they all look like - say - professional.... :roll:

 

[Smart $]

...I get the caulk-tube size and cap the end of the tube with a bolt and a couple wraps of tape when I'm done. Lasts a long time. ...

Tip: the best "cap" I've found for any caulk-tube product is aluminum [foil] duct tape. The aluminum foil is impervious to air. Just tape around the tip with the tape overlapping itself a little lengthwise and the tip widthwise, then squeeze and twist the end tight... but not so tight as to rip the foil.

Not an endorsement of the particular product pictured.

 

[Cow]

I went ahead and ordered 10 tubes of that E-6100.

I'm not worried about the food and animal contact or outgassing. It's inside the carousel where the equipment sits, milk/vacuum lines run, etc.

 

[TwinCitySparky]

Tip: the best "cap" I've found for any caulk-tube product is aluminum [foil] duct tape. The aluminum foil is impervious to air. Just tape around the tip with the tape overlapping itself a little lengthwise and the tip widthwise, then squeeze and twist the end tight... but not so tight as to rip the foil.

Not an endorsement of the particular product pictured.

Not a bad idea. One benefit to my idea is if the product does start to dry into the tip, you can pull the bolt out with the dried on plug attached to the end. Peel it off, good to go.

 

[TwinCitySparky]

I went ahead and ordered 10 tubes of that E-6100.

I'm not worried about the food and animal contact or outgassing. It's inside the carousel where the equipment sits, milk/vacuum lines run, etc.

I think you will be pleased. I would experiment with it a bit first to get a feel for how the product behaves, also give it adequate time to dry. The drier smell does go away after a few days.

 

[Smart $]

Not a bad idea. One benefit to my idea is if the product does start to dry into the tip, you can pull the bolt out with the dried on plug attached to the end. Peel it off, good to go.

Your method use to be my Plan A, and is still my Plan B for when I don't have any aluminum tape handy. FWIW, I've taped up a tube of silicon caulk and six-months later even the mass at the very tip was still quite usable. Same goes for Marine GOOP (which is a cousin of E6100, same manufacturer) after setting untouched for nearly a year. Of course you can't let it set open for a half a day after using it... gotta tape it up somewhat pronto. Make sure to wrap the tape around the tip with no wrinkles.

 

[mxslick]

This is the product you are looking for cow. I have used this stuff for the break out wiring configuration you described countless times. Flexible, waterproof. Works great on many other applications too. They also make a UV rated version.

This 6100 is the high viscosity "no slump" version. I get the caulk-tube size and cap the end of the tube with a bolt and a couple wraps of tape when I'm done. Lasts a long time.

http://eclecticproducts.com/_tds/e6100_tds.pdf

But does the following note on Page 2 prohibit the use in this case?

"E-6100? is not recommended for any items that come into contact with food, drinking water or animals."

Depends on the exact location of those splices I suppose. But the AHJ might have something to say about it.

 

[wireguru]

if my cheese starts to taste funny, ill know why. (you didnt like the idea of the molded rubber T assemblies I posted about earlier?)

 

[TwinCitySparky]

But does the following note on Page 2 prohibit the use in this case?

"E-6100? is not recommended for any items that come into contact with food, drinking water or animals."

Depends on the exact location of those splices I suppose. But the AHJ might have something to say about it.

Reply #25 from cow:

I'm not worried about the food and animal contact or outgassing. It's inside the carousel where the equipment sits, milk/vacuum lines run, etc.

 

[Cow]

i thought of another (and better) option (i dont know your budget or how quickly you need it) There is a place near me that makes molded rubber Y adapters and such. As I recall, they have a mold for a 'T' adapter, they could make you the cord with however many molded rubber Ts with the pigtail coming out. I think each molded splice is going to run $15 or so. PM me if you want more info

if my cheese starts to taste funny, ill know why. (you didnt like the idea of the molded rubber T assemblies I posted about earlier?)

:grin::grin:

Wireguru, your idea sounds great. I just already had the special premade pigtails to do the job plus I was trying to get this done as soon as I could. That price is great if it's really only around $15, considering I'm charging more than double that for 4' of 12-3 SJ and one complete soldered/heatshrinked joint for each milking stall. But that price is including everything, drive time, etc...

Here's the pigtail:

 

[wireguru]

:grin::grin:

Wireguru, your idea sounds great. I just already had the special premade pigtails to do the job plus I was trying to get this done as soon as I could. That price is great if it's really only around $15, considering I'm charging more than double that for 4' of 12-3 SJ and one complete soldered/heatshrinked joint for each milking stall. But that price is including everything, drive time, etc...

ah ok, I didnt realize you were using pigtails with premade connectors on them.