Holes in floor joist
- Thread starter tdaug53
- Start date
- Status
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
hardworkingstiff
Senior Member
- Location
- Wilmington, NC
Is the center line between the 2 holes horizontal, vertical, or on an angle to horizontal/vertical?
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
How long is the span? I have drilled 2.5" holes in 2x10 joists with no issue but it depends on where he drilled it.
mcclary's electrical
Senior Member
- Location
- VA
Most places limit the size of the hole to a percentage of the framing member. I think you're ok with a 2 &1/2" hole as long as it's in the middle 1/3 of the framing member. If it's in either of the other 2/3's,,,,,you will need framing plates to fix it.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
This may help
Last edited:
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
Sounds like a 2x10 may not work with a 2.5" hole. I believe what we did was to put 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood on both sides of the joist about 4' long and then drill the center of the plywood both length and width.
We did a 11,000 sq ft home some 5 yrs ago with night mare framing and from garage down large hall way to main rooms on lower level we had to bring some 35 home runs down that hall way area , this framing was TGI rafters but in 3 areas there was some kind of special framing between these TGI an I cant remember what it's called but we had to have the structural engineer come out to survey what we had planned to do , I told the owner we would not drill a hole until the engineer gave the approval , he gave the approval no larger than 1 1/4 inch holes max 10 holes spaced out 4 in apart , this house had the lighting panels in it like 8 of them with electronic relays , crazy job to.
See the following guide...
http://arch.umd.edu/Tech/Structural...Wood_Products/Notching_&_Boring_Guide_A11.pdf
JFletcher
Senior Member
- Location
- Williamsburg, VA
Holes drilled in joists cannot be larger than 1/3 the size of the joist or within 2" of the top or bottom of the board, or another hole.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
I like that guide better than the one I posted. I thought 1/4 was not correct but I just now realized that was from a UK site. :grin::roll:
International Residential building code R502.8.1 Sawn lumber
2" minimum from top or bottom. D/3 max.
The diameter of holes bored or cut in to members shall not exceed one-third the depth of the member. Holes shall not be closer then 2" to the top or bottom of the member, or to any other hole located in the member.
2" minimum from top or bottom. D/3 max.
The diameter of holes bored or cut in to members shall not exceed one-third the depth of the member. Holes shall not be closer then 2" to the top or bottom of the member, or to any other hole located in the member.
macmikeman
Senior Member
- Location
- Planet macmikeman
We really ought to forward this info to the plumbers.... I see some things that are not mentionable getting done.:roll:
growler
Senior Member
- Location
- Atlanta,GA
LMAO....True. It is frightening what plumbers cut out.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
When they cut out large holes they gusset with plywood as I described earlier. Apparently you can make a larger hole when you gusset with plywood on both sides.
- Location
- Massachusetts
I moved the 'lumber' posts to this thread.
Really, every time?
Not in the real world, that is why there are these guy called building inspectors. Gusseting with plywood is not a code recognized method of "fixing" an over sized hole or notch, you need to double up joists or use engineered brackets. Even then you are limited to what you can get away with.
construct
Senior Member
- Location
- Branson, Missouri
If holes and notches occur in sawn lumber that exceeds code limits, we have to require an engineered fix, because there are no perscriptive fixes in the code. Structural panel gussets are one fix I typically see. If engineered lumber has been used like I-joists, LVL's, etc, and the manufacturer's chart limitation are exceeded, then an engineer must be used.
I almost never see any framing issues with wiring methods unless it is a SE cable or feeder going through an exterior wall top plate.
For the most part, I see plumbing causing the most butchering issues.
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