Service Changes, Temporary Connections

Status
Not open for further replies.
J

jmellc

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Occupation
Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
I was burning myself on service changes where I had to temp the new service in til POCO came for permanent connections. I was using split bolts for 4/O AL or #2 Al, etc Some of these split bolts were $18 each. I started buying ground lugs to size, bolt 2 together for each connection. Use a lock washer and tighten well, tape well. Works great for the 3-5 days it usually takes POCO to come out. Much cheaper and does a good job.
 
Splicers%20Reducers%20(Dual%20Rated).jpg
 
Over the years, I have used everything from 3/4" romex connectors w/ rubber tape (don't jump on me, that's what my first employer made me do!) to Polaris insulated lugs. I have a friend who uses Polaris lugs and leaves a note inside the meter base for the POCO to please leave them on the jobsite so he can swing by to pick them up. I presently use 250mcm double barrel lugs and mastic pads. Fast and not too expensive. I can't believe your POCO gets there within 3-5 days. Here in Northern Virginia, Dominion VA Power usually takes 3-5 months! I was working in a house last year when I saw the service of their neighbor's house that I had upgraded the previous year still temporarily rigged!
Called Dominion and was told the county never notified them. Called the county and was told the date that they notified Dominion! This happens all the time here, and in different jurisdictions, so I know that the POCO is the problem. I highly suggest keeping track of all your "heavy-ups" (oops...that slipped out...that's a whole different thread!) Sometimes, they fall through the cracks!
 
I agree. You need to keep tabs on Dominion. I've used the set screw connectors that Bob showed, Polaris and H-taps. I prefer H-taps. $5 each and totally reliable and disposable.

Mark
 
If you talk to the POCO crew they probably have a whole bucket of split bolts on their truck that they will give you. Most now just leave them at the job.
 
Do over

Do over

Why are you temping the connections? I've seen services with romex connectors that have been up there for years. And I love it when they leave the locknuts on. In New Jersey we are allowed to cut loose any single family dwelling up to 200A single phase for repair needs or a service changes. I'm surprised you can't. We use insulated crimp sleeves with a manual Burndy crimper for the phase conductors and an H-tap for the neutral conncetion. The crimper is a handful to use on the extension ladder, but we only allow Journeymen to terminate live conductors anyway. It does require some practice to be efficient, but then it's done for good without all the tape. The power company isn't even involved.
We also have a temp 60A 240V panel with a GFCI quad and a meter pan with a 30' cord and alligator clips now for working power. We were changing a service and had a "cheater cord" bugged in for power when the meter reader walked by annd asked us if we enjoyed stealing from the power company. He didn't like my comment about them stealing from me every month so I got a visit from a line supervisor who asked me to build the temp so I could meter what I was using.
Both have become great tools and have some of the heaviest usage in the shop. You could build the temp out of parts from a service you have to change.
 
Here in VA, in areas covered by Dominion VA Power, we don't run the service cable on the line side of the meter, only the load side, so we have to temporarily make connections inside the new meter base. Normally, we remove the screws holding the old meter base, tie it off to the side, mount the new meter base in its place with the new sec going out the bottom, into the house and to the new panel. Then you carefully take the old meter base (having left the old SEC intact for a couple of feet below the old meter base) and set it on top of the new meter base, with the old SEC coming into the top hub. Now you have the old meter base sitting directly atop the new one, with the old SEC bowing out and back between two of the existing straps to make up the couple of feet you have raised it. We then strip the old SEC and the new SEC and temporarily splice the 3 conductors inside the new meter can, making sure to leave enough length on the new for the POCO to permanently tie it in later. Then we put a meter blank and the cover on the new meter base and the meter goes back on the old meter base. When POCO arrives (months later) they run new SEC from the new weather head (which they supply as well) down to the new meter base and make it up. The only time we need to use an extension ladder is to install a new eyebolt, if necessary, for the POCO to connect to. They provide the eyebolt and meter base at no cost, we just have to pick them up from them. (they prefer us to use the threaded type through wood with a nut & washer in the attic) Unless the existing eyebolt is falling out, I don't even install an eyebolt any longer. I have gone to MANY houses afterward and seen my eyebolt up there, unused where I installed it!) They usually don't even change out the old service drop from pole to house! Sorry for the LONG explanation! Going back to the "cheater cord" Kin NJ mentioned, we always call that a "whirlygig" down here! I don't have a meter base on mine (yet) or know anyone who does, but good idea! I was once in the middle of a change as well when a meter reader showed-up. He was obviously a new kid and probably summertime help. He looked like he'd seen a ghost! When he asked me where the electric meter was, I pointed to it underneath some bushes near where I was and kept on working, after all, time is money! He looked terribly scared and took off running! Of course, by the time his supervisor got there, my "whirlygig" was gone and hidden in my van! We just had a quick laugh and he told me the kid was completely freaked by what he saw!:D
 
TOOL_5150 said:
works great, even the big ones that can handle 4/0 are like $5 at the supplier. or you can just do what I do, and use polaris and just bill it to the customer.

~Matt
Click to expand...
Yes, those are good. Don't know why I didn't think of them.
 
Split Bolt said:
Over the years, I have used everything from 3/4" romex connectors w/ rubber tape (don't jump on me, that's what my first employer made me do!) to Polaris insulated lugs. I have a friend who uses Polaris lugs and leaves a note inside the meter base for the POCO to please leave them on the jobsite so he can swing by to pick them up. I presently use 250mcm double barrel lugs and mastic pads. Fast and not too expensive. I can't believe your POCO gets there within 3-5 days. Here in Northern Virginia, Dominion VA Power usually takes 3-5 months! I was working in a house last year when I saw the service of their neighbor's house that I had upgraded the previous year still temporarily rigged!
Called Dominion and was told the county never notified them. Called the county and was told the date that they notified Dominion! This happens all the time here, and in different jurisdictions, so I know that the POCO is the problem. I highly suggest keeping track of all your "heavy-ups" (oops...that slipped out...that's a whole different thread!) Sometimes, they fall through the cracks!
Click to expand...
If I left a note, I'd have a snowball's chance of someone leaving them for me. And that creates another trip. I'd rather use the cheapest safe thing I can find and not worry about losing them
 
krisinjersey said:
Why are you temping the connections? I've seen services with romex connectors that have been up there for years. And I love it when they leave the locknuts on. In New Jersey we are allowed to cut loose any single family dwelling up to 200A single phase for repair needs or a service changes. I'm surprised you can't. We use insulated crimp sleeves with a manual Burndy crimper for the phase conductors and an H-tap for the neutral conncetion. The crimper is a handful to use on the extension ladder, but we only allow Journeymen to terminate live conductors anyway. It does require some practice to be efficient, but then it's done for good without all the tape. The power company isn't even involved.
We also have a temp 60A 240V panel with a GFCI quad and a meter pan with a 30' cord and alligator clips now for working power. We were changing a service and had a "cheater cord" bugged in for power when the meter reader walked by annd asked us if we enjoyed stealing from the power company. He didn't like my comment about them stealing from me every month so I got a visit from a line supervisor who asked me to build the temp so I could meter what I was using.
Both have become great tools and have some of the heaviest usage in the shop. You could build the temp out of parts from a service you have to change.
Click to expand...
Good question. Normal procedure here is that we finish a service change, inspector approves and gives notice to POCO to connect. If it's an unoccupied house with no need for power yet, I leave for POCO to connect. If family is living there, I temp with what I have and POCO comes later with crimp splices or other stuff. On some, the triplex needs to be moved as well. That is the case on a house I just finished. Moved meter & disconnect over some & installed new attachment point. POCO will move triples to new point.
 
Below is what our POCO requires, and we also can reconnect the service drop, I use split bolt, insulated crimps, uninsulated crimps with heat shrink on the ungrounded conductors, and read below, if the existing service had a old style bolt in meter we can use bypass jumpers in the new meters to get the customers power back on, but we have to call in and they will estimate the usage by previous usage, then they subtract a percentage to give a little leeway.

USE: Procedure for handling of electric meter when customer owned service entrance is being upgraded.
PREVIOUS REVISION
03-14-94
ORIGINATED
03-94
PREVIOUS NUMBER
ER 806-A, 08-01-89
LATEST REVISION: Revised entire procedure to reflect the use of white seals as an identification means for
service entrance upgrades in progress (inspector approval pending).
SPECIFICATION:
1. GENERAL:
1.1 A contractor may cut the existing seal, and remove the original electric meter, if they hold a
permit from the local building department, for the purpose of upgrading the existing service
entrance.
1.2 When the upgrade has been completed, the contractor may re-energize the new service
entrance by installing jumpers, from line to load, in the new meter socket. Jumpers must be
approved for such use, and capable of handling the entire load. The original electric meter
shall be hung on the new service entrance, so it is visible to NIPSCO personnel.
1.3 The contractor shall complete the service entrance upgrade, and notify NIPSCO within thirtysix
(36 ) hours of the removal of the original meter. Note: Failure to notify NIPSCO within
this time schedule will place financial responsibility with the contractor, for any
unmetered electric usage, over the allotted 36 hours.
1.4 Upon receiving the upgrade completion notice from the contractor, NIPSCO will pick up the
existing meter from the location, and install a new meter in the upgraded service entrance. The
new meter will be sealed, at this time, with a white seal. The white seal identifies the service
entrance as an upgrade in progress, which is still awaiting the required approval from the local
code enforcement official (inspector).
1.5 The white seal will remain on the service entrance until the inspectors approval is received.
The white seal status of the service entrance will be communicated to any existing local
building department. Once the upgrade has been approved by the inspector, NIPSCO will
perform any re-connection or replacement of service conductors, and re-seal the meter with
a green seal. The green seal will identify the completion and approval of the upgrade.
Click to expand...
Here is a link for all of their standards: NIPSCO Standards
 
When I was a helper, we were told to use 1/2" Tomics as temprary splices. I didn't know better, but I wouldn't use them now.

I always figure a way to not have to cut the drop, or have the POCO do it. They do everything on the line side of the meter here.
 
We have our own version of the whirlygig, we call it a "thief". :grin:

We usually use a polaris over split bolts but I will put a label on them "please save for us" and since we are on a first-name-basis with our POCO guys, they will save them. They usually have a handful in a bucket for us at any given time. I am happy to bill the customer if necessary, but would rather re-use.
 
In Ma National Grid has started a program that you call them and they will send out a few connectors for connetions but I question this in the fact that you are now resposable for this connection. I use insulated piercing type (bug bites) for temp connections and tell the poco that they will need to come by afterwards and put there perminate connections on.
 
Well, after suggesting following-up on service changes, I got to thinking. Today I drove by 2 houses that I had changed out and were near where I was working. BOTH of them still had my temporary double meter rig! Livid, I got home, pulled both files, went to the county website to check permit status. One had been passed on 6/2/09 and the other 6/11/09! That's '09 people...OVER A YEAR AGO!!! I called the county and was assured that the POCO had been advised via fax in both cases after the final inspections. Then she said she would re-fax them tomorrow. I then called the POCO (Dominion VA Power) and was assured that there was no record of them being notified!:mad:
VERY FRUSTRATING!!! Now I'm going to have to go back over years of service changes to check them all out!:mad: BTW: Getting back to another thread, one of those permits from Fairfax County, VA says "Heavy Up Service" on it.:D

Larry, I haven't heard the words "Tomic Connector" for years, since I moved away from Richmond! Up here, nobody carries them. I miss them. They were great for putting a missing connector on a box without removing any wiring!:)
 
Split Bolt said:
Larry, I haven't heard the words "Tomic Connector" for years, since I moved away from Richmond! Up here, nobody carries them. I miss them. They were great for putting a missing connector on a box without removing any wiring!:)
Click to expand...
Who you callin' "old"? :mad: :)grin:)

Have you tried the Raco Insider pop-in? It's shaped like a stovepipe hat, installs from the inside, and grips against pull-out.

It's sort of a pop-in that grips the other way.
 
krisinjersey said:
Why are you temping the connections? I've seen services with romex connectors that have been up there for years. And I love it when they leave the locknuts on. In New Jersey we are allowed to cut loose any single family dwelling up to 200A single phase for repair needs or a service changes. I'm surprised you can't. We use insulated crimp sleeves with a manual Burndy crimper for the phase conductors and an H-tap for the neutral conncetion. The crimper is a handful to use on the extension ladder, but we only allow Journeymen to terminate live conductors anyway. It does require some practice to be efficient, but then it's done for good without all the tape. The power company isn't even involved.
We also have a temp 60A 240V panel with a GFCI quad and a meter pan with a 30' cord and alligator clips now for working power. We were changing a service and had a "cheater cord" bugged in for power when the meter reader walked by annd asked us if we enjoyed stealing from the power company. He didn't like my comment about them stealing from me every month so I got a visit from a line supervisor who asked me to build the temp so I could meter what I was using.
Both have become great tools and have some of the heaviest usage in the shop. You could build the temp out of parts from a service you have to change.
Click to expand...

You should have given him a dollar and said it should cover much more than the amount of power you consumed during this short time. They lose much more than what you will use in this situation just in line losses ahead of meters alone.

I don't hook up too many services as in the OP POCO usually does but if I do, I use H taps or crimp sleeves - POCO will not change them later because that is what they will use. For 200 amp or smaller conductors you only spend about one dollar per connector or less. The crimper is not cheap but I use it often for more than just reconnecting to POCO lines.
 
Last edited:
Got a few of the Raco insiders in my "sewing kit." They come with the Raco fan boxes. I use a different connector with the fan boxes and save the Insiders for when I need them!
 
Split Bolt said:
Well, after suggesting following-up on service changes, I got to thinking. Today I drove by 2 houses that I had changed out and were near where I was working. BOTH of them still had my temporary double meter rig! Livid, I got home, pulled both files, went to the county website to check permit status. One had been passed on 6/2/09 and the other 6/11/09! That's '09 people...OVER A YEAR AGO!!! I called the county and was assured that the POCO had been advised via fax in both cases after the final inspections. Then she said she would re-fax them tomorrow. I then called the POCO (Dominion VA Power) and was assured that there was no record of them being notified!:mad:
VERY FRUSTRATING!!! Now I'm going to have to go back over years of service changes to check them all out!:mad: BTW: Getting back to another thread, one of those permits from Fairfax County, VA says "Heavy Up Service" on it.:D

Larry, I haven't heard the words "Tomic Connector" for years, since I moved away from Richmond! Up here, nobody carries them. I miss them. They were great for putting a missing connector on a box without removing any wiring!:)
Click to expand...

You and I are in the same neck of the woods (Fairfax County). I never rely on the county to notify Dominion. I always call the Dominion Engineer the day after the inspection and let him/her know that it passed. I usually get final hook-up within a few weeks, but I let the customer know to call me if it's temp'ed for more than a month.

Mark
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top