Floor heating questions

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powerplay

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a) I have heard that the 240 volt in floor heat mats put out more heat than the 120 volt ones, but I am thinking it all depends on the watts. Do the 240 volt heat mats heat up faster?

b) I'd be curious to know if the custom heat mats are constructed better and last longer than the manually strung ones or vice versa? The manually wired ones would have better coverage, but I'm thinking the quick install heat mats would be able to radiate into adjoining tiles enough to prevent frostbite on the toes reasonably well? I'm leaning towards 120 volt self wired although it would be fairly easy to run 240 volts to the panel, but I'd appreciate any feedback or preferences to the contrary.

...thanks again!
 
Wattage makes the difference. When you have a floor area that is large then you need to go to 240V. The heat will be the same at 240 or 120v if the wattage is equal.

I have found that the mats are easier to install but cost much more than the individual wire setups. I have done both-- a lot more labor without the mats.
 
a) Do the 240 volt heat mats heat up faster?
Watts is watts. It's very possible the 240v mats have a higher heat density (watts per square foot) which will heat faster and/or keep up with a greater heat loss, but at more $.

b) I'd be curious to know if the custom heat mats are constructed better and last longer than the manually strung ones or vice versa? The manually wired ones would have better coverage, but I'm thinking the quick install heat mats would be able to radiate into adjoining tiles enough to prevent frostbite on the toes reasonably well?
I've done plastic mesh mats with the heat wire woven in, and mats that were zig-zagged wire with three what-looked-like metal duct tape strips. The latter was slightly faster.

I can tell you that the heat doesn't spread very far. A cabinet guy placed an island about 10" off the plans, and the missing heat on that side is noticeable through thick socks.

I've never done the single wire, but it probably would be the most tedious, because you don't know whether your layout spacing is working until you've laid it all out. Yecch! :mad:

I'm leaning towards 120 volt self wired although it would be fairly easy to run 240 volts to the panel, but I'd appreciate any feedback or preferences to the contrary.
All other things being equal, I generally prefer wiring almost everything at the higher voltage, which means lower current for a given power level.
 
I have never done heat in the tile in a kitchen but if the kick spaces go done first then they tile to it. That would avoid them fastening into the heat wire.
 
How did you luck out from him hitting the heat cable, man it seens every time I have had them do this they get the heat cable when they anchor the island down.:mad:
Anchored the island down? I sincerely doubt it. Fortunately, it's huge.

It covered 10" of heat on one side, and left 10" unheated on the other.
 
Anchored the island down? I sincerely doubt it. Fortunately, it's huge.

It covered 10" of heat on one side, and left 10" unheated on the other.

Hehe, I did a kitchen once with a bunch of monkeys who thought it was ok not to anchor the island. They learned their mistake when the 16 year old son started doing dips between the island and wall counters and pushed the island a foot away pinching a wire and breaking the duct on the down draft.

If it's got wires or ducts in it, it needs to be fastened on my jobs ;)
 
Installing the tile under the counters makes everyones jobs hard except the tile guys. What a pain to drill down for the vents, wires , plumbing etc. I think I had seen that once and that builder will never do that again. We all tore into him. :grin:
 
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