Smart Glass

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stickboy1375

stickboy1375

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Litchfield, CT
Was wondering if any one has done any work with this product? The glass panels are 120 volts, but I'm curious about what others would do with the conductors leaving the glass window....


IMAG0215.jpg
IMAG0221.jpg

I was just planning on boxing out the wires, but the exposed THHN's seems like an issue?
 
ActionDave

ActionDave

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Durango, CO, 10 h 20 min from the winged horses.
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I have, but only once. Just slid a piece of flex over the wires till it hit the j-box. The power company was involved so the local inspector took a hands off approach.

Also just a plain old t-stat did not work that well so we ended up adding a PID controller.
 
R

Rock Crusher

Member
Location
Ne. USA
There isn't any way to connect a connector of any kind? Whether there is a threaded hole or atleast a hole you can put a connector in. There has to be a way to protect the wires. That is per code and just common sense. Unless they are in romex or some other approved method.
Maybe post a close-up pic of where the wire come off, or out of, the window.
 
stickboy1375

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
Rock Crusher said:
There isn't any way to connect a connector of any kind? Whether there is a threaded hole or atleast a hole you can put a connector in. There has to be a way to protect the wires. That is per code and just common sense. Unless they are in romex or some other approved method.
Maybe post a close-up pic of where the wire come off, or out of, the window.
Click to expand...


IMAG0213.jpg

This is how they ship them, the carpenters just drill a hole in the framing and slip the conductors through for us like the first pics I posted.
 
stickboy1375

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
Rock Crusher said:
There isn't any way to connect a connector of any kind? Whether there is a threaded hole or atleast a hole you can put a connector in. There has to be a way to protect the wires. That is per code and just common sense. Unless they are in romex or some other approved method.
Maybe post a close-up pic of where the wire come off, or out of, the window.
Click to expand...

Since when does a manufacture have to follow the NEC?
 
stickboy1375

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
Sierrasparky said:
Are you saying you just connect 120 v to the end of those wires?
Click to expand...

Not quite, they come with some relay package, I'm not sure whats in it, but it requires 120v constant, 2 wires for a switch leg, and 2 wires for the load ( the orange and white on the window) everything is labeled as 120V...


I'll take a picture of the instruction sheet when I go back....
 
paul

paul

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Location
Snohomish, WA
I wired a couple up a few years back. Told my PM that it had no UL and no way to attach the conduit. I ended up sleeving it with flex. I made a whole in the casing in which to slide it down into. There was no permit pulled in the job and to this day I don't see a way of making it legal per the NEC.

Cool stuff though.
 
ActionDave

ActionDave

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stickboy1375 said:
Not sure what this means? The windows I have came with a driver, it gets a constant 120 volts, a switch leg, and a 2 wire load to the window... I'll take a picture of it when I go back...
Click to expand...
A PID controller is a super fancy thermostat. As you can tell by my description I don't know exactly what it is either.

What it did was keep the temperature of the glass consistent. Prior to installing it the temp. would swing up and down past the set point of the t-stat.


The glass was installed in a fancy hotel restaurant to keep the patrons comfortable if they were seated at a table near the window. The stuff was made in Sweden I believe. Local POCO thought I might be something they could sell or promote, hotel owner wanted something to brag about so they got together. I understood that it was one of the first places in the U.S. to use it.

What is your application? Is the glass heating the whole house?
 
N

n1ist

Senior Member
Location
Massachusetts
Occupation
Principal Electrical Engineer
As he mentioned, they are automatically-darkening panels for a bathroom. It's like a single large liquid-crystal pixel. The driver generates a suitable AC voltage to darken the window when the bathroom is occupied.
 
stickboy1375

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
n1ist said:
As he mentioned, they are automatically-darkening panels for a bathroom. It's like a single large liquid-crystal pixel. The driver generates a suitable AC voltage to darken the window when the bathroom is occupied.
Click to expand...

Yeah, blinds are not practical for a window in a bathroom shower. :) so they went with these smart glass windows, they actually come normally fogged, its when you apply the voltage they become transparent.
 
T

texie

Senior Member
Location
Fort Collins, Colorado
Occupation
Electrician, Contractor, Inspector
stickboy1375 said:
View attachment 6538

This is the relay that came with the smart glass, I'm not even sure why this is needed? Looks like a standard RIB relay to me....



View attachment 6539

Simple enough wiring diagram....


Here is the manufactures website...http://www.ltisg.com/ltiprivacy.php#
I would love to see how they wired the ones on the web site.
Click to expand...

Found this on the web site: http://www.ltisg.com/specs/SGULLC.0110.pdf Note the detail for the "LTI UL approved nipple".
I had looked at this product a while back for a job that didn't happen. I was really excited to try it.
 
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