Is my house adequately grounded, and what does that mean?

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lmark103

New member
Location
Oregon
Hello,

I am a newish owner of an old (1941) home in Oregon. I know next to nothing about electricity, but am here to learn! Hopefully, you will entertain my relative naivete of electricity and how it affects me in my new (old) home. :bye:

My first question, if anyone would be so helpful to provide feedback is:

This old home had galvanized metal water pipes. They were corroding from the inside, reducing water pressure severely. We just had them replaced with PEX plastic pipes. In the process of having them replaced, the plumber removed 3 grounding connections to the metal water pipe (obviously). One was an exposed copper wire coming out of the electrical panel/circuit breaker box, clamped directly to a water pipe. One was a clamp from a light fixture to another water pipe. The third was a clamp from the natural gas line to a water pipe. He said to contact an electrician about what to do next (he was a friend of a friend working for cash, not doing anything with a permit. Sorry, I know, I know).

Anyway, I emailed about 50 electricians about this, asking if the can provide me with an estimate to come out and "re-ground" the house/re-attach the grounding clamps to something other than PEX plastic water pipe. I did look and see that there is another exposed copper wire leaving the electrical panel, going out through the wall, and attached to a grounding rod, directly beneath the meter outside. My "understanding" is that my house was grounded to both the water pipe, and this grounding rod outside. Now, it is only grounded to the grounding rod obviously.

Almost all of the electricians (other than the ones who had dispatchers/secretaries reply with "we can come diagnose your problem for $105/hr) said something similar to this "The current code requires two ground rods spaced 6' apart in lieu of the
metal water pipe. We are also supposed to bond to the gas pipe (if you have gas)."

So I thought, OK, I should have someone come out and install another ground rod. However, one electrician said this "[FONT=&quot]The requirement for 2 ground rods is for new installations. If you have one existing ground rod that can be verified, as you stated in your first email, then you have a code compliant installation. If the existing cannot be verified, then 2 new rods would be required."

[/FONT]
So either I am still code compliant with my one grounding rod (and no water pipes) or I need another grounding rod. Easy enough.

However, I started reading (and getting lost) in electrical forums, which start to utterly confuse this newbie. The crux of my questions is - what does this grounding rod (or two) do? What does it protect me from? A lot of the information I've read says it protects me from a ground fault (such as an appliance having a loose wire, coming in contact with a metal casing of said appliance, and becoming energized or hot). BUT, much other information I have read said a grounding rod (or two) only protects me from a static discharge - meaning if my house gets hit by lightning. Many of these sites also said that having two grounding rods 6 feet apart may or may not provide any additional benefit over 1 rod, depending on soil conditions, etc. But 2 rods is code, so.....

Anyway, sorry for being a windbag. I am just trying to figure out if:

a) I should get another grounding rod installed.
b) What situations/dangers this/these grounding rods would protect me and my family from.

Thank you any and all for your input.
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
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Normally we would just close the thread but because you do not seem to be asking how to do it yourself we can give some suggestions.

But the issue of grounding electrodes is very subjective, so you are not going to get a clear answer. Some feel they are critical for safety, others feel they help some and others see no point at all.

To complicate things the NEC has many requirements and options regarding the types and number of electrodes needed. For instance the NEC does not automatically require two ground rods as many electricians believe.
 

Smart $

Esteemed Member
Location
Ohio
... I am just trying to figure out if:

a) I should get another grounding rod installed.
b) What situations/dangers this/these grounding rods would protect me and my family from.

Thank you any and all for your input.
First, determine whether your former connection to the water piping was for the purpose of being a grounding electrode or just for grounding it. To be a metal water pipe electrode, it has to have 10 ft or more in contact with earth and be electrically continuous. If that were true prior to the replacement with PEX, I have to assume the plumber did not make the transition to PEX in or on the outside of the entry wall or floor. If yes, is there any metal amount extending into the interior to which a clamp can be installed? If yes, have an electrician reconnect. If no, you do not have a metal water pipe electrode... and having a non-metallic water piping system now, there is no bonding (grounding it) required.

Installing another ground rod may not be required. You are not upgrading your electrical system from the sounds of it... but you do have to maintain its integrity to the code in effect the last time it was upgraded. I have to assume it was upgraded at least once since you mentioned breaker box (vs. built 1941). Even current Code has no 'automatic' requirement for two ground rods. What is required under current code is that a single ground rod electrode (IMO, excluding a required supplementary rod electrode for a metal water pipe electrode) must have a resistance to ground of 25 ohms or less. If not, a second rod is required. This is why many say two rods are required... it is just easier to install the second rod than it is to prove the first meets the resistance-to-ground requirement. However, I am uncertain how far back this goes in the NEC editions (issued at 3yr intervals), and you should only need to meet the edition in effect at the time of your last upgrade.

I'll let others handle the lighting fixture and gas line issues... so as not to be a windbag :lol:
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
1)-Almost all of the electricians (other than the ones who had dispatchers/secretaries reply with "we can come diagnose your problem for $105/hr) said something similar to this "The current code requires two ground rods spaced 6' apart in lieu of the
metal water pipe. We are also supposed to bond to the gas pipe (if you have gas)."

2)-So I thought, OK, I should have someone come out and install another ground rod. However, one electrician said this "The requirement for 2 ground rods is for new installations. If you have one existing ground rod that can be verified, as you stated in your first email, then you have a code compliant installation. If the existing cannot be verified, then 2 new rods would be required."

3)-So either I am still code compliant with my one grounding rod (and no water pipes) or I need another grounding rod. Easy enough.

I broken down your post into three questions.

1) Yes, the 2011 NEC does require two ground rods (unless you can meet the exception of 25 ohms or less) but that is not in lieu of the water pipe electrode. If the metal water pipe is 10' or more in contact with the earth it must still be used as an electrode. The gas pipe is bonded through the EGC of a gas appliance.

2) I agree. If you're upgrading the grounding electrode system under the 2011 NEC you would need two ground rods.

3) I agree also. The water pipe electrode required a supplemental electrode just in case the water pipe ever got changed to a non-metallic pipe. At the time of installation it's likely that only one rod was required so your still OK.
 
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
Your plumber actually gave you some pretty good advice. Get an electrician that is familiar with the codes and issues in your area.

Additional gas line bonding may not be required if the appliance connected to it already has an EG. Then again if you have any of the newer flexible lines that have been installed in the last few years, additional requirements may have been added in your area.
The light fixture concerns me in that it may have been using the bond to the water pipe as a bootlegged grounded conductor (neutral). Does it still work?

You really do have a pretty good grasp of the situation, just spend the money and be done with it.
 

1793

Senior Member
Location
Louisville, Kentucky
Occupation
Inspector
I broken down your post into three questions.

1) Yes, the 2011 NEC does require two ground rods (unless you can meet the exception of 25 ohms or less) but that is not in lieu of the water pipe electrode. If the metal water pipe is 10' or more in contact with the earth it must still be used as an electrode. The gas pipe is bonded through the EGC of a gas appliance.

2) I agree. If you're upgrading the grounding electrode system under the 2011 NEC you would need two ground rods.

3) I agree also. The water pipe electrode required a supplemental electrode just in case the water pipe ever got changed to a non-metallic pipe. At the time of installation it's likely that only one rod was required so your still OK.


This could be where the "rub" is, the interior wiring may be two wire NM with no EGC. Could be why they jumped off at different places to get their "ground".
 

Hv&Lv

Senior Member
Location
-
Occupation
Engineer/Technician
I broken down your post into three questions.

1) Yes, the 2011 NEC does require two ground rods (unless you can meet the exception of 25 ohms or less) but that is not in lieu of the water pipe electrode. If the metal water pipe is 10' or more in contact with the earth it must still be used as an electrode. The gas pipe is bonded through the EGC of a gas appliance.

2) I agree. If you're upgrading the grounding electrode system under the 2011 NEC you would need two ground rods.

3) I agree also. The water pipe electrode required a supplemental electrode just in case the water pipe ever got changed to a non-metallic pipe. At the time of installation it's likely that only one rod was required so your still OK.

I'm with Iwire on this one. 2 rods isn't a requirement, it usually is the easiest.
 

1793

Senior Member
Location
Louisville, Kentucky
Occupation
Inspector
IIRC, This used to be legal many years ago. An EGC could be obtained anywhere off a bonded water pipe system. No?

In my opinion, no.

In order to have an EGC it would have to go back to the Grounding Electrode Conductor / System. The reason is, if you just hit any copper pipe in the house you would then be relying on the piping system to carry the "ground". If someone were to insert a piece of plastic ahead of your attachment then you would not have your "ground". This could be dangerous for now if the copper pipe were to be energized then every piece of pipe would be "hot" with potential shock hazard say at a water spigot or faucet.
 

Smart $

Esteemed Member
Location
Ohio
In my opinion, no.

In order to have an EGC it would have to go back to the Grounding Electrode Conductor / System. The reason is, if you just hit any copper pipe in the house you would then be relying on the piping system to carry the "ground". If someone were to insert a piece of plastic ahead of your attachment then you would not have your "ground". This could be dangerous for now if the copper pipe were to be energized then every piece of pipe would be "hot" with potential shock hazard say at a water spigot or faucet.
But I believe the point was that it used to be permitted for circuits w/o an EGC... and IIRC, it was permitted.
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
I'm with Iwire on this one. 2 rods isn't a requirement, it usually is the easiest.

Even under the 2011 NEC?

250.53 Grounding Electrode System Installation.
(A) Rod, Pipe, and Plate Electrodes. Rod, pipe, and plate
electrodes shall meet the requirements of 250.53(A)(1)
through (A)(3).
(1) Below Permanent Moisture Level. If practicable, rod,
pipe, and plate electrodes shall be embedded below perma-
nent moisture level. Rod, pipe, and plate electrodes shall be
free from nonconductive coatings such as paint or enamel.
(2) Supplemental Electrode Required. A single rod, pipe,
or plate electrode shall be supplemented by an additional
electrode
of a type specified in 250.52(A)(2) through
(A)(8). The supplemental electrode shall be permitted to be
bonded to one of the following:
(1) Rod, pipe, or plate electrode
(2) Grounding electrode conductor
(3) Grounded service-entrance conductor
(4) Nonflexible grounded service raceway
(5) Any grounded service enclosure
Exception: If a single rod, pipe, or plate grounding elec-
trode has a resistance to earth of 25 ohms or less, the
supplemental electrode shall not be required
 

Smart $

Esteemed Member
Location
Ohio
Even under the 2011 NEC?
While the wording has changed, it still amounts to not being required if the "first" ground rod is 25 ohms or less to ground.

...and regarding the wording, how shall we interpret "single"? If you think about it, every correctly-installed ground rod is a single ground rod :happyyes: we'll never get 'er done :lol:

Also, what if you have a metal water pipe electrode. It requires a supplemental electrode, too. If a rod electrode, 250.53(D)(2) says t must comply with 250.53(A)... so does that mean there has to be a supplemental ground rod to the supplemental ground rod?
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
While the wording has changed, it still amounts to not being required if the "first" ground rod is 25 ohms or less to ground.

...and regarding the wording, how shall we interpret "single"? If you think about it, every correctly-installed ground rod is a single ground rod :happyyes: we'll never get 'er done :lol:

Also, what if you have a metal water pipe electrode. It requires a supplemental electrode, too. If a rod electrode, 250.53(D)(2) says t must comply with 250.53(A)... so does that mean there has to be a supplemental ground rod to the supplemental ground rod?

Yup, if you look at the new wording for the supplement to the ground rod a water pipe is not on the list. :)
 

Hv&Lv

Senior Member
Location
-
Occupation
Engineer/Technician
Yes I agree, two rods would be the easiest and the CEE wouldn't require any supplmentation.

The only reason I bring up ufer is the rods are there already on a monolithic pour. it is actually easier for me to tie to the rods on these slabs than to forget it and have to drive two rods. (I dont own a tester...)
Granted, most houses arent slab-on-grade
 

Smart $

Esteemed Member
Location
Ohio
Yup, if you look at the new wording for the supplement to the ground rod a water pipe is not on the list. :)
I wouldn't expect it to be on the list... because the water pipe electrode is already required to have a supplemental electrode... and IMO a water pipe electrode can never supplement a rod electrode... it will always be the other way around.

But then a metal frame electrode is also required to have a supplemental electrode... and it is on the list. So do we have to install three in that case... :blink:

IMO it is written in an unclear manner. IMO, you should only have to install two ground rods if there is no other electrode present (or the first is 25 ohms or less to ground :angel:).
 

jxofaltrds

Inspector Mike®
Location
Mike P. Columbus Ohio
Occupation
ESI, PI, RBO
The only reason I bring up ufer is the rods are there already on a monolithic pour. it is actually easier for me to tie to the rods on these slabs than to forget it and have to drive two rods. (I dont own a tester...)
Granted, most houses arent slab-on-grade

I don't see a slab as meeting the requirements of a ufer (CEE). I assume you mean in the footer of the monolithic pour

Do you think about:

(B) Electrode Spacing. Where more than one of the electrodes
of the type specified in 250.52(A)(5) or (A)(7) are
used, each electrode of one grounding system (including
that used for strike termination devices) shall not be less
than 1.83 m (6 ft) from any other electrode of another
grounding system. Two or more grounding electrodes that
are bonded together shall be considered a single grounding
electrode system.

Also.
How do I do this with a city water supply using copper?
 
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