Tricks for too large a hole in sheetrock

[bjp_ne_elec]

Have a job where one of the holes is too large in the height of the Sheetrock opening. There is a metal stud to one side and it looks like the guy before me hacked the box off the stud. They want a receptacle in that location but the ears won't catch so that I can hold the OWB with Madison clips. I tried to put a screw through the side of the box into the stud but it just sucks the box in as the screw is obviously going it at an angle due to the fact you don't have a straight in shot due to the box.

I have used the Smart Box on wood studs in this situation when I have a Romex job so was wondering if there was something similar to this for working with metal studs and running MC.
Thanks

 

[JJWalecka]

Have a job where one of the holes is too large in the height of the Sheetrock opening. There is a metal stud to one side and it looks like the guy before me hacked the box off the stud. They want a receptacle in that location but the ears won't catch so that I can hold the OWB with Madison clips. I tried to put a screw through the side of the box into the stud but it just sucks the box in as the screw is obviously going it at an angle due to the fact you don't have a straight in shot due to the box.

I have used the Smart Box on wood studs in this situation when I have a Romex job so was wondering if there was something similar to this for working with metal studs and running MC.
Thanks

Did you try putting the ears on the side of the box and use a medium size plate.

Or Glue a block the right depth on the back side of the wall, screw through the back of your box to that block.*

Or I have seen people use expand foam (fire rated I hope) to hold a box.

 

[bjp_ne_elec]

JJWalecka - did not even realize the ears could be moved to the side - that might do the trick. Also, love the block idea. Thanks for the reply. Now I don't have to get someone in to do kidding and painting!

 

[dhalleron]

Or Glue a block the right depth on the back side of the wall, screw through the back of your box to that block.*

I've done this by screwing the box to the piece of wood first and then using the madison clips, jiffy hangers, holdems, battle ships or whatever they are known as to hold the box in. I did this when the top ears didn't have drywall to stop it from falling into the wall. The wood stopped it at the right depth and the hangers held it in place.

I might try the glue idea sometime. Liquid nails might be good but there is dry time involved. I did use the the foam trick before and I'm pretty sure I didn't think about it being fire rated.

 

[Fulthrotl]

Have a job where one of the holes is too large in the height of the Sheetrock opening. There is a metal stud to one side and it looks like the guy before me hacked the box off the stud. They want a receptacle in that location but the ears won't catch so that I can hold the OWB with Madison clips. I tried to put a screw through the side of the box into the stud but it just sucks the box in as the screw is obviously going it at an angle due to the fact you don't have a straight in shot due to the box.

I have used the Smart Box on wood studs in this situation when I have a Romex job so was wondering if there was something similar to this for working with metal studs and running MC.
Thanks

depends on what the wall treatment is gonna be....
if it's a finished wall, that isn't gonna get painted,
that cuts down on the options....

if the steel stud has the face against the side you are on,
i'd slide in a metal remodel box, lose the battleships,
drill three pilot holes near the front of the box, and
use pan head screws to mount it.

if it's a totally snarfy mess, i'd do the same thing with
a 4SD combo box, with a 1/2" 2 gang ring and a mid
size plate, and they get a quad.... :happyyes:

if the stud faces the wrong way, i'd get a 5" long piece
of stud, slide it in on the other side, put a couple screws
thru pre drilled holes, and let it float. the box will
index it and keep it from shifting.

a 6" magnetic screw gun tip will get you there.

btw, bowers makes a 3 1/2" deep metal cut in box that
uses battleships. they are great. they are all i ever use.
you can stuff a GFCI in, with wire nuts behind it.

and it touches the sheetrock on the other side, so it's
more stable.

 

[MJW]

It seems like they used to make a thin metal c clip that was made for this situation. I couldn't find it with a quick google search but maybe someone will remember who made it or what is was called.

 

[Riograndeelectric]

Arlington makes a steel one box that screws onto a stud the same as a plastic one box.




http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/fan-and-fixture-boxes/steel-one-box-outlet-boxes/F101S

 

[220/221]

This is all you need






I'd slip in some backing, screw thru the drywall to secure it, screw the box to the backing and patch the dwall screw heads and whatever of the hole is still showing. The 15 min mud will be dry enough to trim out in less than 5 minutes.

I like recep boxes really secure.