New Klein Screwdrivers with Steel Cap

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jmellc

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Location
Durham, NC
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Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
I am sure many of you have now seen the new Klein screwdrivers with a steel cap. Selling point is that they are durable and can stand up to hammering. I checked one with a meter though & found that the steel cap goes through to the blade.

PLEASE, if you decide to get one of these, take every precaution that you do not inadvertently pick up one for any live work. I will not get any because I know I would eventually get careless and do this. Please do not become a statistic. Our work is hazardous enough as it is.
 
I've got the stanley version and the flat blade is one of my most often used tools to be honest. I'm certain it has saved me at least 3 screwdrivers by now and all of my Kleins are completely intact at the back end of them. You're right though, they DO pose a hazard if used on live circuits. I'm a big advocate of using the right tool for the job and this tool has become a stalwart in my arsenal. When my Kleins do start wearing out I can take them back without have pounding or prying with them and have never had a problem getting a "fresh" screwdriver. And no I do not work for Stanley.
 
I am sure many of you have now seen the new Klein screwdrivers with a steel cap. Selling point is that they are durable and can stand up to hammering. I checked one with a meter though & found that the steel cap goes through to the blade.

PLEASE, if you decide to get one of these, take every precaution that you do not inadvertently pick up one for any live work. I will not get any because I know I would eventually get careless and do this. Please do not become a statistic. Our work is hazardous enough as it is.

Yes that is the Klein Demoltion screw driver #602-7DD. Everybody should have a beater

screwdriver on hand. Not to use to tighten screws but to hammer on, use as a pry bar etc.
 
I am sure many of you have now seen the new Klein screwdrivers with a steel cap... I checked one with a meter though & found that the steel cap goes through to the blade.


PLEASE, if you decide to get one of these, take every precaution that you do not inadvertently pick up one for any live work. I will not get any because I know I would eventually get careless and do this...
My boss is a second generation electrician. His dad worked hot all the time.

Interestingly, he stripped all the insulation off of his tools. "Learn to work it hot; don't rely on the insulation on your tools to keep from getting bit" was the way he thought it ought to be done.
 
I checked one with a meter though & found that the steel cap goes through to the blade.
They could make an insulating slip-on 'cup' to cover the end when you don't need to pound on it. Then, to prevent losing the cup they could tether it to the driver but the buyers may not go for that.
 
I didn't check mine but we were told the cap is isolated from the blade. Guess not
Now that my brain is remembering we were told it was connected to the driver so that it would be quite hard to destroy it. If it weren't the plastic would fall apart in time.
 
They could make an insulating slip-on 'cup' to cover the end when you don't need to pound on it. Then, to prevent losing the cup they could tether it to the driver but the buyers may not go for that.

I thought that insulated tools had a pair of overlapping triangles and the text 1000V IEC-EN 60-900.
Prior to that my Dad said 3 layers of scotch 33 made it insulated.
 
Knowing a tool is not insulated is safer than having an insulated tool IMO, here is a pair of my linemans that I used for years.

my_linemans.JPG


Roger
 
The Wera Chisel Drivers are made the same way. The easiest and safest way to go about it is to simply carry two. Use the Chisel Driver for chiseling/prying/tightening lock nuts and the normal drive for tightening screws.
 
Knowing a tool is not insulated is safer than having an insulated tool IMO, here is a pair of my linemans that I used for years.

my_linemans.JPG


Roger
I've met many people over the years who have said the same thing. Respectfully, I have always disagreed. In my opinion, it is similar to driving a car without a seatbelt because you feel that you will drive much safer that way.

You can stil drive (and do electrical work) safely with the seatbelt (insulation) on. The seatbelt (insulation) will provide an extra layer of protection.
 
Would a rubber table leg cap fit ?
If it does I'd think it has a pretty high dielectric breakdown voltage.

it is similar to driving a car without a seatbelt because you feel that you will drive much safer that way.
It's the opposite of a "moral hazard", where you drive more recklessly because you have a seatbelt, or airbags, or you're in a Hummer.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moral_hazard

I
t might work if the driver is the only source of danger.
 
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I've met many people over the years who have said the same thing. Respectfully, I have always disagreed. In my opinion, it is similar to driving a car without a seatbelt because you feel that you will drive much safer that way.

You can stil drive (and do electrical work) safely with the seatbelt (insulation) on. The seatbelt (insulation) will provide an extra layer of protection.

It is breakdowns in the insulation that you are trusting that end up getting you. Driving without seatbelts does not necessarily mean you will drive safer, it may make you pay more attention to things, when you are thinking about it, but if you do it enough you stop thinking about it and drive like you otherwise would anyway.
 
It is breakdowns in the insulation that you are trusting that end up getting you.
Exactly my point, it's not that I didn't work things hot, (see the field made stripper notch) the difference was I was not trusting insulation that could possibly have been damaged to keep me safe.


In todays world since hot work doesn't exist it doesn't matter anyways. ;)


Roger
 
I simply use my oldest most ragged screwdriver as a beater.

You want to use bare metal tools, that's up to you. Not for me.
 
Just how hard are some of us using screwdrivers as a punch or chisel? I tighten/loosen locknuts sometimes with them but I don't take full swing with a 2 pound hammer either. If I need to resort to that I am getting out a real punch or chisel.

Only times I can recall ever breaking a screwdriver was when the screwdriver was some cheap screwdriver and not a Klien, Ideal, or other similar priced and grade tools.
 
I made these a pair of strippers about 20 years ago, I just recently gave them to my son who is in the trade now. I was doing demo on a Montgomery Wards in Florida. Pulled apart a conduit in a wall that was stripped and cut the "dead" circuit......well it was dead after I cut it.:lol:
 

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