Garbage Disposal / Dishwasher Circuit

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Duncan8943

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I've got a 20A 120VAC circuit feeding a two gange duplex receptacle box--ran this with 12-2W/G. One receptacle is for the dishwasher. The other receptacle is for the Garbage disposal. The problem is that I accidentally ran 14-2W/G from the receptacle box to the switch box for the garbage disposal.

I know the inspector is going to want me to replace the 14-2W/G in the switch leg with 12-2W/G. I thought about changing the breaker to a 15A, but I know the inspector doesn't like mixing 15A breakers with #12 Wire. He is afraid that some electrician will come along in the future and change the 15A breaker to a 20A breaker--no realizing that there is #14 wire in the circuit.

Since the garbage disposal has an overload device built in, does this give me a way out? The loads are as follows:

6.2A Garbage Disposal
2.1 A Dishwasher Motor
8.3A Dishwasher Total (Motor plus Heating Element)

Is there a section of the code that offers me a way out of my problem?
 
....... I thought about changing the breaker to a 15A, but I know the inspector doesn't like mixing 15A breakers with #12 Wire. He is afraid that some electrician will come along in the future and change the 15A breaker to a 20A breaker--no realizing that there is #14 wire in the circuit........

Putting #12 on a 15a breaker is perfectly legal............ and the inspector needs to be educated.
 
Not sure about your situation but 210.19(A)(3) Exception 1 allows something similar for ovens and cooktops. I wouldn't lose any sleep over what you did but the AHJ may.
 
I've got a 20A 120VAC circuit feeding a two gange duplex receptacle box--ran this with 12-2W/G. One receptacle is for the dishwasher. The other receptacle is for the Garbage disposal. The problem is that I accidentally ran 14-2W/G from the receptacle box to the switch box for the garbage disposal

You should be OK, but do you have a hard time distinguishing the color yellow with white?
 
If you can convince the homeowner to get a "batch feed" disposal you can remove the switch and you won't have that problem.
 
As others have said, putting #12 conductors on a 15 amp breaker is code compliant and is done often, particularly for voltage drop considerations. In a case such as yours where the presence of #14 conductors may not be obvious to someone replacing the circuit breaker, especially if the length of the run is short so that it is obvious that the #12 isn't there for voltage drop reasons, It may be helpful to someone maintaining the installation in the future if you were to place a note on the breaker schedule indicating the presence of #14 conductors downstream in the circuit. There is no code requirement for the note.
 
I agree with the others and the inspector obviously does not understand this ruling. Wires are often upsized for voltage drop etc. Sometimes the inspectors are concerned that someone will replace the 15 with a 20 amp. Many inspectors will make a compromise if you mark the #12 in the panel that it must be connected to a 15 amp breaker. Although not required it is not a bad idea.
 
Fixed the problem

Fixed the problem

I just cut the drywall and replaced the ~4 ft piece of wire with #12. I took the easy way out. Thanks for everyone's input though. One solution that I thought of was to put one of the fuse/receptacle combos that are made into a faceplate under the sink. This would let me put a 15A fuse in the garbage disposal circuit. I haven't went through the code to see if that would be ok. It would definitely protect the #14 wire.
 
Every circuit feeding countertop receptacles. The refrigerator may be on a dedicated 15 amp cir. Look at 210.52(B)

Just to clarify a little more, the refrigerator or receptacles not covered by 210.52 are about the only exceptions, otherwise all the receptacles in kitchens, dining rooms, breakfast rooms, pantry, or other similar rooms are required to be on a SABC which must be a 20 amp cirucit.
 
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