Wiring generator with auto start

[bjp_ne_elec]

Got a service call to look at a generator that had to be moved. Turns out the original LP vendor hooked up the generator too close to house. There was only about a one foot space. New LP vendor comes in, and good for them, want it corrected before they replace existing tank.

There are two 14/2 circuits and then the 50 amp circuit that the generator will be feeding. The original electrical job was evidently not inspected as I find the 3 wire 50 amp and the two 15 amp (one is a 240 volt and the other is a 120 volt) all stuffed in a piece of sealtite and the end inside the basement is not terminated in to a JB) Should have taken pics, but did not.

The 240 volt circuit is for remote sensing the utility power at the generator, and I need to check the installation guide to see what other circuit is for, but it was not powered when I checked it. The one sensing utility power was actually hot. Should each of these 15 amp (actually fused at 2 amps in the control panel) have a disconnecting means at the outside, near generator?

Another question I have is how you guys configure the outside wiring. I was thinking of putting a WP trough on the outside face of the house and then, bringing in the 8/3 and the two 14/2 Romex in to the back side of the trough, and then just running a 1" PVC to the generator. The trough would allow me to pull everything together, allow me to make up joints ( 14/2 needs a place to make up joints), and then connect to the gen.

If anybody has some pics of how they lay something like this, I'd love to see them.
Thanks

 

[shortcircuit2]

What brand is the gen-set? I have used PVC j-boxes on the side of the house to change wiring methods. I don't put disconnects for the wiring to the generator. Kohler wants the control wiring in a separate conduit than power. They also specify shielded cable.

 

[bjp_ne_elec]

It's a Generac.

 

[goldstar]

Need more info but :

• Generac & B & S specs say they can be located 18" from the residence but 5' away from windows.
• If you choose to lock the enclosure on the generator where the breaker is, it will require a (unlocked) disconnect to be located on the house
• If the unit is Generac and it's an "essential circuits" unit it will have come with an outdoor connection enclosure. Inside that enclosure are terminal lugs and a Molex connector for the sensing wires. That gets cpoupled up with the pre-manufactured whip on the xfer panel.
• If it's a "whole house system" the conduit is run direct to the xfer switch and wired direct (unless the generator is remotely located and you need the disconnect)
• In either case with these two mfr's you can run the sensing and control wires in the same whip. Generac requires 6 wires. B & S requires 2 separate pairs of wires. The control circuit has to be twisted pair but in all cases has to be the same insulation rating as the power wires.

I believe I'm correct but if someone knows otherwise please say so.

 

[kwired]

• If you choose to lock the enclosure on the generator where the breaker is, it will require a (unlocked) disconnect to be located on the house

I don't do a lot of generator installs, but I do have a current Generac that I am supposed to connect for a customer. The main lid of the generator enclosure is lockable on this one but there is another access door with no lock to the circuit breaker handle on this particular unit. I do recall others in the past that have the breaker under the main cover, maybe they have redesigned?

 

[kwired]

Got a service call to look at a generator that had to be moved. Turns out the original LP vendor hooked up the generator too close to house. There was only about a one foot space. New LP vendor comes in, and good for them, want it corrected before they replace existing tank.

There are two 14/2 circuits and then the 50 amp circuit that the generator will be feeding. The original electrical job was evidently not inspected as I find the 3 wire 50 amp and the two 15 amp (one is a 240 volt and the other is a 120 volt) all stuffed in a piece of sealtite and the end inside the basement is not terminated in to a JB) Should have taken pics, but did not.

The 240 volt circuit is for remote sensing the utility power at the generator, and I need to check the installation guide to see what other circuit is for, but it was not powered when I checked it. The one sensing utility power was actually hot. Should each of these 15 amp (actually fused at 2 amps in the control panel) have a disconnecting means at the outside, near generator?

Another question I have is how you guys configure the outside wiring. I was thinking of putting a WP trough on the outside face of the house and then, bringing in the 8/3 and the two 14/2 Romex in to the back side of the trough, and then just running a 1" PVC to the generator. The trough would allow me to pull everything together, allow me to make up joints ( 14/2 needs a place to make up joints), and then connect to the gen.

If anybody has some pics of how they lay something like this, I'd love to see them.
Thanks

One circuit is like you said probably 240 volt sensing circuit, the other is probably 12 volt DC for starting the unit. Unless they put an inverter on it to make it AC all that is available during an outage is the unit's battery voltage, and that is what it will depend on for starting.

 

[goldstar]

[/LIST]

I don't do a lot of generator installs, but I do have a current Generac that I am supposed to connect for a customer. The main lid of the generator enclosure is lockable on this one but there is another access door with no lock to the circuit breaker handle on this particular unit. I do recall others in the past that have the breaker under the main cover, maybe they have redesigned?

Correct. The top cover on the Generac is lockable but only has the controls there. The side panel hosts the breaker and it comes with a separate lockable tab that's installed in the field that I don't even tell the customer about. I never install them.