Fixed electric space heaters

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tlsa98

Member
If I was redoing this I might use 8 and 60 amp disconnects.

The job may have been legal but it is right at the edge and it did fail already.

Ok sounds good. But if I measure the length oh the #10's and they are over 25ft I would be required by code to redo the entire job and put each heater on it's own breaker right?
 

augie47

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee
Occupation
State Electrical Inspector (Retired)
From the pictures, the heat damage and darkened fuse ends definitely look like a poor connection, possibly in the switch itself. (Are they turned off/on often ? )
As pointed out by the back and forth discussion, the situation is such that if the actual current draw per phase is nameplate (24.4) then the 1.25% requirement takes you just over the 30 amp limit.
I think we are caught been the fact that the install has been working for 20 years and the fact that it actually not Code (by a half amp or so).
No doubt a #8 wire, 60 amp disconnects and 35 amp fuses would be the best route to assure a Code compliant and trouble-free install. Often that is a "hard sell" after 20 years of operation.
 
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augie47

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee
Occupation
State Electrical Inspector (Retired)
Ok sounds good. But if I measure the length oh the #10's and they are over 25ft I would be required by code to redo the entire job and put each heater on it's own breaker right?
Not necessarily.. you could lengthen the #6s (shorten the taps to less than 25').
If you go that route, I would increase the taps to #8s just to reduce any problems.
 

tlsa98

Member
From the pictures, the heat damage and darkened fuse ends definitely look like a poor connection, possibly in the switch itself. (Are they turned off/on often ? )
As pointed out by the back and forth discussion, the situation is such that if the actual current draw per phase is nameplate (24.6) then the 1.25% requirement takes you just over the 30 amp limit.
I think we are caught been the fact that the install has been working for 20 years and the fact that it actually not Code (by a half amp or so).
No doubt a #8 wire, 60 amp disconnects and 35 amp fuses would be the best route to assure a Code compliant and trouble-free install. Often that is a "hard sell" after 20 years of operation.

Not a hard sell because I only have to convince myself as to what to do! I just needed help from you guys because the article 424 rules and the tap rules are a bit confusing to me. I certainly appreciate all the help I'm getting. You guys have much more nec expertise than I.
 

tlsa98

Member
Not a hard sell because I only have to convince myself as to what to do! I just needed help from you guys because the article 424 rules and the tap rules are a bit confusing to me. I certainly appreciate all the help I'm getting. You guys have much more nec expertise than I.

Hey everyone, good morning, I just got to the plant this morning and have looked at this installation, 1 heater is 15 to 20 feet away from the jbox where the #6 ends and the other heater is 50 feet away. Both of those 30 amp disconnects look exactly the same on the line side. Red plastic arc guards are melted, the first couple inches of insulation of the line side #10's is melted and the top of those 30 amp fuses are burned looking. So now that I know the 25 tap rules weren't followed here would I be ok to leave both heaters fed from that 1 60 amp breaker at the main panel and just run #6THHN all the way to both heaters plus upgrade the 30 amp fused disconnects to 60 amp?
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Hey everyone, good morning, I just got to the plant this morning and have looked at this installation, 1 heater is 15 to 20 feet away from the jbox where the #6 ends and the other heater is 50 feet away. Both of those 30 amp disconnects look exactly the same on the line side. Red plastic arc guards are melted, the first couple inches of insulation of the line side #10's is melted and the top of those 30 amp fuses are burned looking. So now that I know the 25 tap rules weren't followed here would I be ok to leave both heaters fed from that 1 60 amp breaker at the main panel and just run #6THHN all the way to both heaters plus upgrade the 30 amp fused disconnects to 60 amp?

To meet code minimum, first heater is close enough for tap rule to work and only needs to have 8AWG conductor and a 35 amp fuse minimum. Second heater either needs overcurrent protection relocated, or 6 AWG like you suggest.
 

tlsa98

Member
To meet code minimum, first heater is close enough for tap rule to work and only needs to have 8AWG conductor and a 35 amp fuse minimum. Second heater either needs overcurrent protection relocated, or 6 AWG like you suggest.

Ok Thanks again!!!
 
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