Old Habits

[DBoone]

What are some wiring methods you used in the past, when you first started out for instance, that you look back on and kind of regret? Maybe you were taught these methods but as you got more experienced you learned there was a better way. For me it would be twisting my EGCs together with linemans and leave one long, cut the rest, then hook to receptacle. My boss does it that way so I was taught that then I learned better and now I pigtail an EGC to the receptacle and use a wire nut. Not grounding switches... My boss still doesn't... I have since started to. Not grounding metal boxes... I wasn't taught to and honestly never even thought about it until recently and went and bought a bag of ground screws so I can ground any metal boxes I use.

 

[DBoone]

I thought I spaced my sentences properly but I guess not. Sorry for the paragraph. :slaphead:

 

[RLyons]

Device boxes I use ground crimps keep one wire long the rest cut...Junction boxes I wire nut grounds.
No back stabs!
Using good linesmans to hammer in boxes in tight spaces.
Leaving a little extra at overhead fixture locations as they tend to change.
Never put up a chandelier or other fixture which takes decision about height from floor without presence of homeowner in charge of making such decisions. :lol:

 

[PetrosA]

I used to twist the grounds together when making up a panel. I've since figured out that it's a really bad idea.

Using my lineman pliers to strip wire instead of a wire stripper.

Not paying attention to box fill.

 

[Ponchik]

...... bag of ground screws so I can ground any metal boxes I use.

Good idea.

But did you know you can buy regular 10-32 screws for the metal boxes? it does not have to be the green kind.

 

[macmikeman]

I am an old poop and I qualify to say this: I used to run aluminum romex into houses since that was what the boss gave us to install. We used scotch brand wirenuts back then and no antioxidant. I feel bad for the ones who bought those houses now, even though I was a first yr app. and had zero say in the matter. Hell, at the time I didn't know any better...

 

[ActionDave]

I used to twist wires together with my kliens before I wire nutted them, now I just jam the wire nut on and twist it with my kliens.

At one time I would use measurements and a torpedo level when making offsets and kicks in 1/2 and 3/4 emt, now I do it by eye. Actually, I have tossed my torpedo level to the bottom of my tool tray. I pull it out once in a while to see if it is broken, blow some dust off, and then toss it lightly back.

BTW, not grounding switches is not a problem if you are using metal boxes.

 

[ritelec]

I used to twist wires together with my kliens before I wire nutted them, now I just jam the wire nut on and twist it with my kliens.

Respectfully,

I had a bathroom and couple of beds going in and out last month on a service call..
I did locate a box that the wire nut "did the work" was loose and was falling off...

Was that your handy work ??

:- )

BTW, not grounding switches is not a problem if you are using metal boxes.

Sometimes I will ground the switch, sometimes not.
I know you didn't have to in the past, but didn't that change??

thanks..





Things I used to do that don't anymore....

Many moons ago.
I had to use a RX stripper to strip nm... Someone showed me to couple of squeezes and pull off sheath with pliers.. I cringed .
I may have a couple of old rusted strippers somewhere...now the pliers are the only way.. Thanks Phil.

 

[fmtjfw]

BTW, not grounding switches is not a problem if you are using metal boxes.

It is much more complicated than that:
The switch must be listed for grounding through the yoke screw.
You may have to remove at least 1 plastic yoke screw retainer.
The yoke may have to be in flat contact with the box.
There may be more requirements ....

(and the metal box needs to be effectively grounded.]

 

[Rewire]

trying to carry every tool I owned in my pouch.

 

[EV607797]

Running 10/2 BX (Type AC cable) or 10/2 Romex for electric dryers, wall ovens and cooktops in the late 1970s. My boss misunderstood that type SE cable was permitted for these applications at the time and assumed that this cable was the same as any other cable that provided two insulated conductors plus a ground. Even as a rookie, I knew that this was wrong, but I just did what I was told for many, many installations. I cringe to think of the numbers of them that may still be out there.

 

[cowboyjwc]

It is much more complicated than that:
The switch must be listed for grounding through the yoke screw.
You may have to remove at least 1 plastic yoke screw retainer.
The yoke may have to be in flat contact with the box.
There may be more requirements ....

(and the metal box needs to be effectively grounded.]

Actually that all changed.

 

[cowboyjwc]

trying to carry every tool I owned in my pouch.

When I was a maintenance electrician, I did the same thing. Pouch weighed over 15 pounds.

 

[John120/240]

When I was a maintenance electrician, I did the same thing. Pouch weighed over 15 pounds.

Ditto on the tool pouch. Standing on the top step of a walk up both sides 14 foot stepladder.

 

[DBoone]

Good idea.

But did you know you can buy regular 10-32 screws for the metal boxes? it does not have to be the green kind.

I did know that but these were cheap and so I grabbed a bag.

The requirement for a green screw is for devices correct?

 

[DBoone]

I used to twist wires together with my kliens before I wire nutted them, now I just jam the wire nut on and twist it with my kliens.

At one time I would use measurements and a torpedo level when making offsets and kicks in 1/2 and 3/4 emt, now I do it by eye. Actually, I have tossed my torpedo level to the bottom of my tool tray. I pull it out once in a while to see if it is broken, blow some dust off, and then toss it lightly back.

BTW, not grounding switches is not a problem if you are using metal boxes.

We only use plastic switch boxes and to be honest I don't see a switch yoke as "likely" to become energized. I guess the possibility that a metal cover could be used makes me kind of, sort of, see the reason for grounding but honestly if the installer even halfway does decent work a hot wire should not get loose energize anything. My opinion.

 

[electricman2]

Running 10/2 BX (Type AC cable) or 10/2 Romex for electric dryers, wall ovens and cooktops in the late 1970s. My boss misunderstood that type SE cable was permitted for these applications at the time and assumed that this cable was the same as any other cable that provided two insulated conductors plus a ground. Even as a rookie, I knew that this was wrong, but I just did what I was told for many, many installations. I cringe to think of the numbers of them that may still be out there.

I did a few like that too many years ago. Learned it from my uncle who was an electrician. Just didn't know any better.

 

[fmtjfw]

2011 & 2014 NEC

2011 & 2014 NEC

Actually that all changed.

404.9 Provisions for General-Use Snap Switches.
(B) Grounding. Snap switches, including dimmer and similar
control switches, shall be connected to an equipment
grounding conductor and shall provide a means to connect
metal faceplates to the equipment grounding conductor,
whether or not a metal faceplate is installed. Snap switches
shall be considered to be part of an effective ground-fault
current path if either of the following conditions is met:
(1) The switch is mounted with metal screws to a metal
box or metal cover that is connected to an equipment
grounding conductor or to a nonmetallic box with integral
means for connecting to an equipment grounding
conductor.
(2) An equipment grounding conductor or equipment
bonding jumper is connected to an equipment grounding
termination of the snap switch.
Exception No. 1 to (B): Where no means exists within the
snap-switch enclosure for connecting to the equipment
grounding conductor, or where the wiring method does not
include or provide an equipment grounding conductor, a snap
switch without a connection to an equipment grounding conductor
shall be permitted for replacement purposes only. A
snap switch wired under the provisions of this exception and
located within 2.5 m (8 ft) vertically, or 1.5 m (5 ft) horizontally,
of ground or exposed grounded metal objects shall be
provided with a faceplate of nonconducting noncombustible
material with nonmetallic attachment screws, unless the
switch mounting strap or yoke is nonmetallic or the circuit is
protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter.
Exception No. 2 to (B): Listed kits or listed assemblies shall
not be required to be connected to an equipment grounding
conductor if all of the following conditions are met:
(1) The device is provided with a nonmetallic faceplate
that cannot be installed on any other type of device,
(2) The device does not have mounting means to accept
other configurations of faceplates,
(3) The device is equipped with a nonmetallic yoke, and
(4) All parts of the device that are accessible after installation
of the faceplate are manufactured of nonmetallic
materials.
Exception No. 3 to (B): A snap switch with integral nonmetallic
enclosure complying with 300.15(E) shall be permitted
without a connection to an equipment grounding conductor