ASHRAE Receptacle Control

[BrianMuir]

Hi guys,
There is a closed thread of a similar name, where the OP posted that the 2010 ASHRAE standards require 50% of receptacles in an office space to be controlled. At the time this was completely off my radar. However, our local codes have adopted this version of ASHRAE as of December 2013, so I am forced to design under these codes.

I believe most of you share my view that the cost of the controls and the environmental impact of producing the controls outweighs any benefit from this design rule, especially considering how easy it is to circumvent... via power bar. Nevertheless, during the construction process I put my stamp on a piece of paper that states the building is in full compliance, so what can I do but comply, comply, comply. And raise my fees a bit.

In case you are not aware of the standard, step or full dimming must be provided also if the office contains more than two fixtures.

I could not find other posts dealing with the topic, which surprises me a bit. I know ASHRAE 2010 has been adopted by many states and just about all of Canada. Is everyone ignoring these clauses?

In the old posting there are no solutions offered. Some responders had the sensible idea of putting receptacles under occupancy switch control, but the fatal flaw in that idea is that occupancy switches are not rated for receptacle loads. Believe me, I have tried all the vendors including Wattstopper, Leviton, Lutron.... This isn't to say that there are no solutions. The problem is that the "room controllers" offered to completely comply with ASHRAE 2010 in an a private office cost about $400 per office when you add up all the parts. There is also the control panel route, and these can be fairly cost effective on large buildings, but for a small building with just a few offices, it falls down. ASHRAE requires a documented commissioning of those systems, akin to a fire alarm verification. What fun!

The solution i am aiming towards consists of regular wall vacancy switch, a 0-10V dimmer control (for use with lay in LED featuring 0-10 input), and a relay with coil on the lighting circuit and contacts switching the receptacles. This will be fully compliant at about half the price of the network room control approach.
I have approved parts for the first two items but the third one has me stuck.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a reliable and reasonably priced relay that would live comfortably in one third of a triple gang box? I'll take one in a double gang box if I can find one. It needs to be 120V coil, 120V contact, 15A rated, ULC approved, reliable, and easy to wire up. The ultimate product would be be packaged much like a decora device c/w with blank cover (or better still a little LED indicator).

(Well, the ultimate product would be a combination dimmer, 0-10V relay, o/c but I got laughed at when I suggested this to a major control outfit, so I am not holding my breath on that one)

Also, I heard about a split receptacle with half green (for the switch side) but it seems that this is just a rumor. If you know of a supplier post that please, and save the contractors on my projects the joyous job of labeling the damn things.

If you have other approaches to "solving ASHRAE" then please post back.

If there is widespread non compliance I would like to hear about that also. Perhaps this rule can be pushed out of next version of ASHRAE if enough of us put up a stink.

thanks

 

[Ragin Cajun]

Most of these so called energy saving codes are now trying to squeeze blood out of a turnip.

Typical of the enviro wacko mindset. Simple, inexpensive means get the bulk of energy savings. The rest of the savings are very marginal.


The inescapable fact of deminishing returns applies very quickly.


Calif. long has done way off the deep end. Be it ego, ignorance, short term financial gain, or plain stupidity, the out of control codes have to be stopped.

Now, to your real problem. I don't know what to do myself. The issue reaches other areas, HVAC; the controls become horrible and expensive and the unit life goes to pot. They are reducing light levels to get the "savings" but now people are getting headaches, etc. because of very poor lighting. Examples abound.

What you have proposed is likely as good a "solution" as any. Whatever "solution" one comes up long term maintenance will be a nightmare!!!

You have hit upon a real sore point.

By the way, LED's have a long way to go before they meet any real ROI. But, that's another story! The snake oil salesmen are out in force! Don't get me started!!!

Obviously I got up on the wrong side of the bed early this AM. Tin foil hat on.

RC

 

[augie47]

For a similar situation I used some A-B solid state realys..(I'd have to research for cat #). They were about 1-1/2" square and 1/2 deep and I fastened them to the back of a standard switch box and they took up little room.

 

[Smart $]

Haven't really been window shopping lately, but I am of the impression that some vacancy detectors/occupancy sensors are rated for 15A. Why bother with a relay controlled by the lighting sensor when you can just put in a single-gang sensor for receptacles?

 

[dkidd]

Here are just two links Google came up with.

http://www.bertbrain.com/saving-energy/wifi-controlled-receptacles-plug-load

http://www.wattstopper.com/products...t/room-controllers/lmpl-101.aspx#.Uw9GUPMo6JA

 

[dkidd]

Here is an article on Wattstopper

http://controltrends.org/2011/10/ne...-90-1-2010-the-easy-way-to-control-plug-load/

 

[gar]

140227-0832 EST

friendlyfire:

I know nothing about ASHRAE and therefore I need some background.

But first I will give a part #. Opto-22 has been in the solid-state relay business for a very long time, possibly 40 years. A relay that might work for you is a 120A25 at a list price of $32, see http://www.opto22.com/site/pr_details.aspx?cid=4&item=120A25 . Allied Radio now Allied Electronics, and Newark both stock the part. For your application I don't like the exposed terminals.

Some broad comments. An electro-mechanical relay, that is using metal contacts, has a very low voltage drop under full load compared to virtually any known solid-state relay. For normal on-off switching, for example, no phase shift control or high cycle rates, I don't think a solid-state relay is a good choice. On the other hand a continuously powered coil type relay also wastes power in the coil. However, a mechanically latched relay, such as the GE RR series, has no standby power loss and retains its state under loss of line power.

I can see the value of switched receptacles when I want them. I designed my living room with two separately switched receptacles, but seldom are these used in the off state. Also have one outside receptacle switched. All switched loads in my house are with RR relays. I think the count is close to 50 relays. In 47 years I have had very few relay failures, possibly 3 or 4. Never had a burned out coil because of the control circuit design I used. The failures were mechanical bi-stable state problems of the snap blade. Probably because of mechanical stress from the plug-in busbar gang boxes I used. Sometime ago GE dropped that option.

The new design of RR relays has the high voltage (power side) terminations recessed, compared to the very exposed terminals on the Opto-22 relay. Note, the RR relays are controlled by low voltage low power coils. Most Opto-22 relays are low voltage DC controlled, but the one referenced above is line voltage AC controlled.

What is the logic required in a typical office for these required ASHRAE switched receptacles? How many separate circuits, and receptacles per circuit? As a user why would I want switched receptacles in my office? Would any of these receptacles be on motion or occupancy sensors? If so, then why?

.

 

[Gregg Harris]

140227-0832 EST

friendlyfire:

I know nothing about ASHRAE and therefore I need some background.

But first I will give a part #. Opto-22 has been in the solid-state relay business for a very long time, possibly 40 years. A relay that might work for you is a 120A25 at a list price of $32, see http://www.opto22.com/site/pr_details.aspx?cid=4&item=120A25 . Allied Radio now Allied Electronics, and Newark both stock the part. For your application I don't like the exposed terminals.

Some broad comments. An electro-mechanical relay, that is using metal contacts, has a very low voltage drop under full load compared to virtually any known solid-state relay. For normal on-off switching, for example, no phase shift control or high cycle rates, I don't think a solid-state relay is a good choice. On the other hand a continuously powered coil type relay also wastes power in the coil. However, a mechanically latched relay, such as the GE RR series, has no standby power loss and retains its state under loss of line power.

I can see the value of switched receptacles when I want them. I designed my living room with two separately switched receptacles, but seldom are these used in the off state. Also have one outside receptacle switched. All switched loads in my house are with RR relays. I think the count is close to 50 relays. In 47 years I have had very few relay failures, possibly 3 or 4. Never had a burned out coil because of the control circuit design I used. The failures were mechanical bi-stable state problems of the snap blade. Probably because of mechanical stress from the plug-in busbar gang boxes I used. Sometime ago GE dropped that option.

The new design of RR relays has the high voltage (power side) terminations recessed, compared to the very exposed terminals on the Opto-22 relay. Note, the RR relays are controlled by low voltage low power coils. Most Opto-22 relays are low voltage DC controlled, but the one referenced above is line voltage AC controlled.

What is the logic required in a typical office for these required ASHRAE switched receptacles? How many separate circuits, and receptacles per circuit? As a user why would I want switched receptacles in my office? Would any of these receptacles be on motion or occupancy sensors? If so, then why?

.

ASHREA 90.1 is requiring the 50% controlled for non occupied loads that are consuming energy when not needed, lighting, computer terminals, drinking fountains etc.

The sad part is that it addresses a very low volume of the actual electrical consumption worldwide.

63 % of the electricity produced is consumed by refrigeration and comfort cooling. There is very little requirements for HVAC contractors to comply with eliminating the wasted energy that comes from over sizing equipment and the lack of commissioning requirements to set up the equipment to perform as the manufacture has designed.

 

[BrianMuir]

Hi guys,
Thanks for the replies. I think I have tracked down a 20A capable relay that accepts a O/C input. This would power the office lights and 1/2 each of four duplex receptacles. Hubbell UVPP. It looks to be in the range of $30. Each office will require a manual override switch and if more than two fixtures some method of multi-level control. For that I am looking at LED lay in with 0-10V dimming input.

Addressing a few points above:
- As I tried to express clearly in the original post I have not found any wall o/c sensors rated for receptacle loads, thus the relay idea.
- The Omron part is a good idea, but the exposed contacts are a problem. Thanks for the suggestion!
- Gregg, completely agree that these receptacles are lighting loaded. However, I kind of like the idea of powering down computer monitors completely when room vacant. And maybe stuff like local printers and the like...
- I like LED over fluorescent in an office environment. About 50% more expensive when lamp costs considered. No bulbs to replace and dimmable. Also we are finding that we can design to 30FC with a lay in and it is perceived by user like 40fc+ with fluorescent. IMHO fluorescent is dying fast for office applications!
FF

 

[GoldDigger]

.... However, I kind of like the idea of powering down computer monitors completely when room vacant. And maybe stuff like local printers and the like...

A good idea and could be useful, but most monitors these days incorporate a low power sleep mode which they can enter under computer control or simply when they are not getting new display content written to them.
Actually turning off the power can cause the computer to lose contact with the display or printer with possible adverse effects on the system defaults and any software applications which are still running.
And for some ink jet printers, according to the manufacturer's instructions an uncontrolled shut down, such as loss of input power rather than turning off the built-in switch, will cause the printer to go through a start up cycle including head cleaning and other operations which deplete the consumables levels and will probably end up costing you more money than the standby mode power consumption of the printer.

For laser printers, as with copiers, there will be a delay in startup as the fuser element comes up to temperature.

 

[Ragin Cajun]

A good idea and could be useful, but most monitors these days incorporate a low power sleep mode which they can enter under computer control or simply when they are not getting new display content written to them.
Actually turning off the power can cause the computer to lose contact with the display or printer with possible adverse effects on the system defaults and any software applications which are still running.

I have also run into the issue of turning off a monitor and screwing up the desktop. Took time to straighten things up. Isn't "time" "Money"???

I am sick of these "looney bins" coming up with "solutions" to saving energy but only screwing things up! I sure don't remember any "public comment" period on these stupid code requirements. Obviously some people don't have anything useful to do! The "code business" is out of control.

Rant off.

RC

 

[fmtjfw]

I have also run into the issue of turning off a monitor and screwing up the desktop. Took time to straighten things up. Isn't "time" "Money"???

I am sick of these "looney bins" coming up with "solutions" to saving energy but only screwing things up! I sure don't remember any "public comment" period on these stupid code requirements. Obviously some people don't have anything useful to do! The "code business" is out of control.

Rant off.

RC

How does turning off a monitor screw up the "desktop"?
Please enlighten me.

 

[Smart $]

How does turning off a monitor screw up the "desktop"?
Please enlighten me.

Shouldn't actually screw up the desktop.. as in corrupt the operating system. However, modern operating systems communicate with displays to obtain resolutions, color rendering capabilities, and other data through the video driver and hardware. I suppose it is possible for the operating system, if left running while the display is de-energized for an extended period, to reset to a default graphics mode, perhaps losing customized settings for the display in the process.

 

[Ragin Cajun]

"Bingo".

Try turning off one of your monitors (I use two) and you have a mess.

RC

 

[Smart $]

"Bingo".

Try turning off one of your monitors (I use two) and you have a mess.

RC

Not always. A fair number of variables are involved. I have a two monitor system that I turn one monitor off all the time without problem. My video card's software (more than just the driver) also provides the ability to store custom settings.

 

[dfmischler]

A relay that might work for you is a 120A25 at a list price of $32, see http://www.opto22.com/site/pr_details.aspx?cid=4&item=120A25 .

After reading the OPTO-22 120A25 data sheet it looks like you would need a pretty good heat sink to handle 15 amps at 120 volts. Thermal ratings graphs are on page 5 of the data sheet. The third graph from the top applies to the 25 amp models. They have another series with integral heatsinks, but they cost about three times as much.