LED diod test

Status
Not open for further replies.
electricalist

electricalist

Senior Member
Location
dallas tx
Customer has has a graffik eye. Phpm pa interface to led fixture.
Previous contractor istalled and fixtures arent working.
I didnt find the drivers to be dimmable so they may be burnt up. Im trying to find out who makes the fixture so i can determine what the correct driver needs to be.
Is it safe to assume the diods are or ok or is there a method to test them. On small led tape a 9 v.batt will light them up.
 
You have a problem, most LED lights come self contained.

In that there are no replacement transformer/ballast for you to change out.
They don't sell them for service or change ability.

Some and most depending on the style type of modern LED's come now with a fourth wire for dim ability of that fixture, if that is a required aspect.
 
These drivers are what i would call external. I can open the fixture and access them.
6c079d1c3179cd6917a7407f38367622.jpg

They are hard wired coming into the fixture and the driver output plugs into a 12/24 v lead that goes into where the diods are
 
If you can figure it out, more power to you!

Noting that you can't find the manufacture, isn't it still just a poke in the dark?

Yes you may well figure it out, but because there was a dimmer involved do
they want a dimmer again? Solving a problem is not always the desired
(customers) solution, No?

I don't do service work and always ponder the my hand holding capacity!
 
Yes they wanted them dimmed. I have the driver info but reverse engineer it to find the dimmable version may be no easy task. Somebody at that bldg has to know where the lights came from. I think i can make it all the way it should have been providing the diods are still useable
 
electricalist said:
Customer has has a graffik eye. Phpm pa interface to led fixture.
Click to expand...
What was in the place of these new decorative lights? Those are Lutron controls meant for two wire power line by controlling the hot like household dimmers.

I didnt find the drivers to be dimmable so they may be burnt up. Im trying to find out who makes the fixture so i can determine what the correct driver needs to be.
Is it safe to assume the diods are or ok or is there a method to test them. On small led tape a 9 v.batt will light them up.
Click to expand...

How many fixtures are connected? Are you getting power at the fixture? If the fixtures are 120v, test with an incandescent lamp.
You could convert them over to T5 or T8 fluorescent lamps using Philips Advance Mark 10 or Osram Sylvania Quicktronic Powersense dimming ballasts which the PHPM-PA should work with. Lutron no longer makes TuWire for linear lamps so those are probably the only two viable options.


electricalist said:
Yes they wanted them dimmed. I have the driver info but reverse engineer it to find the dimmable version may be no easy task. Somebody at that bldg has to know where the lights came from. I think i can make it all the way it should have been providing the diods are still useable
Click to expand...
Well, post that, dummy. Drivers are not standardized like HID ballast ANSI codes and many are proprietary. Some are constant current, some are constant voltage and there's no standardization. Some are non-isolated and run the LEDs in a long chain and drive them off of 230v DC like Cree LED bulbs.
 
What does post that,dummy mean?
It seems simple enough. The drivers arent dimmable,lutron said get the fixture specs and they ll tell me the compatible driver, but they only sell to the public 2 types, but would be glad to tell me what i need to buy drivers from a local led supply house
 
electricalist said:
What does post that,dummy mean?
It seems simple enough. The drivers arent dimmable,lutron said get the fixture specs and they ll tell me the compatible driver, but they only sell to the public 2 types, but would be glad to tell me what i need to buy drivers from a local led supply house
Click to expand...

It meant post the driver info, as much as possible. You said you have the "driver info". The more info I have, the more likely I am able to guess the specs.. or basically the same thing Lutron told you. Have you ruled everything out? Bypass the controls and plug the fixture directly into an outlet with an extension cord. (if it's 120-277v rated or the system is 120v). Could be that the controls are locking out to prevent damage or it already got damaged.

If you get it working, or you find another fixture that is working, measure the voltage and amperage at the output under load and report back. Some are current regulated some are voltage regulated, representing the two types Lutron sells to the public. However, fixtures don't necessarily stick to standard voltage or amps. At the worst, LEDs can overheat and start a fire. Do you have access to actual LED elements?
 
100v-277v .50/60 hz .27-37 output volts.1500 ma output current. 1300-1500 avaliable output current .88%@ 110 v effeciency. .99@110v pf 55w max output power
 
electricalist said:
100v-277v .50/60 hz .27-37 output volts.1500 ma output current. 1300-1500 avaliable output current .88%@ 110 v effeciency. .99@110v pf 55w max output power
Click to expand...

That's all the information you need.
You need a 1,500mA CC type, not one bit higher or you'll have friodes.
The voltage range needs to least cover the range above.

But you want to reengineer the system to be dimmable, right? Light Emitting Decoration supply house can probably find something that fits what you want. Dimming does increase the chance of creating interference though, especially if the fixture was never meant to be dimmed and didn't have shielding with dimming in mind.

Least Economic Designs :lol:
 
Last edited:
They are in conference rooms and were supposed to go back on a day when theyre not in use and what the light requires. I called about a dimmable version of the non dimmable and they said there 40 that fit that range
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top