Led 2x4 amps

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electricalist

electricalist

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dallas tx
Do multi tap light amps change by voltage.
On one of our jobs we're putting LED 2x4 lights. I briefly opened one and it says 1.4 amps.
An f-bay is about 1 amp.
What am I missing?
 
electricalist said:
Do multi tap light amps change by voltage.
Click to expand...
Yes.
On one of our jobs we're putting LED 2x4 lights. I briefly opened one and it says 1.4 amps.
An f-bay is about 1 amp.
What am I missing?
Click to expand...

F-bay with 1 amp is probably F32T8 x 4 @ 120v.

Watt = V x A x PF. The PF can not exceed 1. For commercial use fixtures, it's close nuff to 1.0. for residential use only fluorescent fixtures or :lol: ED fixtures, it can be 0.5-0.6

When you take a 120-277v anything fixture and plug it in a 120v outlet and measure the amps, then into a 240v outlet and measure the amps, it will be about half on 240v.
 
6 lamp t5 @ 50 watts each ? 277. 1.08 amps
That's less than the LED light and that means more circuits not less. Doesn't work out to save money.
 
Do you have the specs on the fixture ?
1.4 is higher than what I usually see but your lumens output may be a lot higher.
 
augie47 said:
Do you have the specs on the fixture ?
1.4 is higher than what I usually see but your lumens output may be a lot higher.
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electricalist said:
6 lamp t5 @ 50 watts each ? 277. 1.08 amps
That's less than the LED light and that means more circuits not less. Doesn't work out to save money.
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300 watts is what the lamps consume but the input to the ballast is likely higher as you have losses in the ballast. Those are lost as heat. Plus any power factor will increase volt amps but power is still same.
 
Generally speaking the customer says were gonna go with LED lights ( these in op) and save money.
How is that when it's gonna take more circuits , more labor and material and the light probably cost a lot more.
 
I think a call to the Lithonia rep would be in order. The spec sheet shows a maximum input watts of 70.3 +/- 10%
 
electricalist said:
Generally speaking the customer says were gonna go with LED lights ( these in op) and save money.
How is that when it's gonna take more circuits , more labor and material and the light probably cost a lot more.
Click to expand...
Contracting rule number one......it doesn't matrer how much the job costs, it doesn't matter how much the job is worth, it only matters what it is worth to the customer.
 
The drawings called for 1 circuit for 48 2 x4 s. So we cord connected one to 120 v and it pulled .7 . were gonna feed them 277 . We did pit a call to verify. He just called and said input voltage does not change amps. Thanks augie . Now the engineers need to figure out what's going on.
 
8 lights per row pull about 5 amps. They have 2 drivers per light so 2 drivers 1 on 2 diff lights was not hooked up ,,they will be e lights . they were fed 120v. 14 drivers. 5 amps. I have no idea why it says 1.4 amps on the light.
 
Fluorescent fixtures are like that too. Look at the UL label and compare to the ballast label. The current rating is not the same.

Your label only shows the main model and does not specify the sub-model. Yeah, email Lithonia ask what values to use for ampacity determination.
 
Electric-Light said:
Fluorescent fixtures are like that too. Look at the UL label and compare to the ballast label. The current rating is not the same.

Your label only shows the main model and does not specify the sub-model. Yeah, email Lithonia ask what values to use for ampacity determination.
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Ty sir.
My opinion is something got 're submitted as well as other details. Prints call for 1 ckt @ .35 amps per light. That value is .6 to .7. Double. Then the e lights came in a diff box ( model emergency light)but are the same as the other lights. The biggest thing is no paper work in any light ,,just the light and a spec sheet that there really no way of verifying the lights are what's specified.
There's more to this my instincts tell me.
 
electricalist said:
Ty sir.
My opinion is something got 're submitted as well as other details. Prints call for 1 ckt @ .35 amps per light. That value is .6 to .7. Double. Then the e lights came in a diff box ( model emergency light)but are the same as the other lights. The biggest thing is no paper work in any light ,,just the light and a spec sheet that there really no way of verifying the lights are what's specified.
There's more to this my instincts tell me.
Click to expand...

Go ahead and call if you're ready to take the blame that you heard and understood wrong. :cry: :sick:

Email is not the same as a phone call. It can be printed out, re-read as many times as they please. Some "dumb ass kid who don't know better" is not a valid excuse they can use when your emailed questions include order data, product photos, box photos etc.

Things like "specifications subject to change without notice" are there to cover their rear. If you ask questions in a way that relates to your specific shipment and they get it wrong and something's gotta be redone, they know they're not gonna get out of it easy.
 
sparkyrick said:
Just wire one up and take a current reading
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That's what I did.
When I would get to the end of each row I would put my amp probe on it and see what it's doing per row, then check next row then again with combined rows just in case we need to make a decision, well have all the numbers.
 
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