Wood boring Safety

[MichaelinIA]

So recently one of my guys got a concussion :jawdrop: from drilling a top plate with a ship long auger bit and a straight fixed speed 1/2" drill. It bound up on something and nailed him good. He seems to be recovering well, but I'm wondering if there is a safer way to do this.

I was thinking about buying a Milwaukee super auger with the clutch. What do you guys use?

 

[JDB3]

Back when, in the 80's, I bought some drills with a clutch. The clutch just worked on high speed, not low. The guys that had these drills did not like them at all.

 

[Nutmegger]

So recently one of my guys got a concussion :jawdrop: from drilling a top plate with a ship long auger bit and a straight fixed speed 1/2" drill. It bound up on something and nailed him good. He seems to be recovering well, but I'm wondering if there is a safer way to do this.

I was thinking about buying a Milwaukee super auger with the clutch. What do you guys use?

Anything that has an extra side handle, besides the pistol grip.
Control with two hands is a must.
That, and a good footing, and some extra room around you to jump off to the side if something happens.
I also don't like locking the chuck in the "drill" mode. I'll clutch it all the way up to the max torque, but not to the locked "drill" position.

 

[cowboyjwc]

Standing on a ladder one time with a 4" hole saw drilling a shiplap ceiling for some light fixtures. Drill bound up, kicked back and I had the handle right at cheek level. It kicked back and I caught my self square in the jaw and actually ko'd and knocked myself off the ladder. I was laying on my back trying to get my bearings when I realized that I had no idea where the drill was. Luckily it had hung up on the nail I hit and was still hanging there.:ashamed1:

 

[mgookin]

Anything that has an extra side handle, besides the pistol grip.
Control with two hands is a must.
That, and a good footing, and some extra room around you to jump off to the side if something happens.
I also don't like locking the chuck in the "drill" mode. I'll clutch it all the way up to the max torque, but not to the locked "drill" position.

I'll concur on that. And if you place that extra side handle against a framing member before you pull the trigger, any torque from lock up will be transferred to the structure and that handle instead of the worker.

 

[K8MHZ]

I will certainly be interested in the replies, having been bruised and sprained by drill motors many times over the years. Even the battery powered ones are now balzy enough to rip themselves out of your hands.

A high torque motor and a large diameter hole, like a hole saw makes, is a recipe for disaster. I had one I couldn't hold while drilling a 4 inch hole. Being next to the wall, I figured I would just rest the side handle against the wall. That would keep the drill from spinning out of my hands when it bound up. NOT. It bound up and broke the handle off the drill and didn't slow down at all. Luckily, I was fast enough to let go before I got bit.

 

[K8MHZ]

I'll concur on that. And if you place that extra side handle against a framing member before you pull the trigger, any torque from lock up will be transferred to the structure and that handle instead of the worker.

We posted at the same time, but make sure the handle can handle the torque of the drill first.

 

[kingpb]

I'll concur on that. And if you place that extra side handle against a framing member before you pull the trigger, any torque from lock up will be transferred to the structure and that handle instead of the worker.

:thumbsup:

 

[ramsy]

Barrow the roofers air compressor and your mechanics pneumatic impact wrench, which wont bind on frozen lugs, but can sheer the lug bolts right off.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Still have a Hole Hawg from the 70's. Used a piece of 3/4" pipe to brace it. Using that with a 3 5/8" Selfeed bit in an older house with oak joists was cheap entertainment...

 

[__dan]

In 3/4", 7/8", and 1 1/8" Greenlee naileater type bits which is not exactly the same as a ship augur type. Some of the newer technology like the Lenox triple flute wood bits or Bosch Daredevil spade bits are good too. They are optimized for cordless drilling

Above that size you will want to change over to carbide tipped hole saws made for lumber boring, or the very good Milwaukee HSS tipped versions.

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-56-9085-10-Piece-Big-Hawg/dp/B0013WCSZ4

Drill motors, you need something with a long handle to greatly reduce torque kickback at the hand. Forget about tools with a second side handle. It's the first thing that gets discarded, no one uses them. I have a 36v Bosch cordless that will rip your hand off when drilling with the Big Hawg bits. The side handle is a PITA in awkward spots or for long reach.

This was the old standard in 700 rpm.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1630-1

The old Hole Hawgs would torque kickback because the handle was too short for the tool. The new Super Hawg is great and has a clutch, which you will be needing when going at it at 1200 rpm. The long handle makes the tool much safer and better reach. They put it on the market 25 years too late for me. Mines collecting dust.

This is the tool you want.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20

 

[rt66electric]

milwaukee 3ft 33deg extension

milwaukee 3ft 33deg extension

I use this - http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/miscellaneous/48-06-2860 -- and a smaller drill motor . I can stand flat footed and drill top plates.

 

[JFletcher]

Bit of an old post... but having been torqued off a ladder and hanging 6' in the air by a corded drill and nailbiter bit once or twice, there are some things I do to keep it from happening again:

~ use something like this:
http://www.toolup.com/Milwaukee-48-...ZGWesnbbs-sTlyOqSV3YhRmJSN3fSnipjAaApYd8P8HAQ

to drill from the ground and not a ladder


~ use the smallest bit possible (size and length).

~ cordless drills dont have the torque of corded ones, tho are better in small installs than lugging around a larger drill and cord. If they hang they generally are an inconvenience rather than an injury

~ use sharp bits and keep them perfectly perpendicular to the hole you are drilling.

~ If you're drilling thru more than one framing member, it helps with some bits to pull the drill out to clear debris.

~ this one is obvious, but wear safety glasses/dont look up when drilling overhead, lest you want a face full of sawdust/chips.

~ generally, there are less nails in top plates a bit away from a stud.

~ if nails arent a concern, tri-flute bits will drill quickly and leave clean holes. Splintering a stud with a crap drill bit then having the splinters get in the way of pulling wire/cable is a big pet peeve of mine.

Not a personal safety issue, but always check the other side of what you're drilling, just in case there is a FA pull box conduit inline with your drill path, or something. :roll:

A super hole hawg or equivalent is the best for heavy drilling thru wood. I dont think Ive ever seen a commercial plumber w/o one.

concrete drilling is much the same as above with special attention to keeping the drill level/plumb, and clearing debris. and if it jams, check to see if you hit rebar or broke loose a piece of aggragate in the hole.

 

[templdl]

I have a Milwaukee magnum 1/2" drill that you wouldn't in your wildest dreams use without using it two handed with the side handle. The thing is s bit bigger than a 3/8" Drill and can cause one to be over confident in that it can easily be used one handed. It has the capability of not only of breaking your wrist or arm but your body.

 

[kwired]

I have a Milwaukee magnum 1/2" drill that you wouldn't in your wildest dreams use without using it two handed with the side handle. The thing is s bit bigger than a 3/8" Drill and can cause one to be over confident in that it can easily be used one handed. It has the capability of not only of breaking your wrist or arm but your body.

Some cordless drills even have enough torque to do more injury then some may realize.

 

[Tony S]

Barrow the roofers air compressor and your mechanics pneumatic impact wrench, which wont bind on frozen lugs, but can sheer the lug bolts right off.

Then what?

If it’s seized that bad and you’ve sheared the head the only way is drill it out and re-tap.
Eeerrm, just a moment, we’re back where we started :slaphead:

 

[Tony S]

If using a hole cutter on sheet metal angle it slightly. The blade isn’t trying to cut on its full circumference so less likely to snag and believe it or not, it cuts quicker :thumbsup:

 

[romex jockey]

Be one with the drill


~Spock

 

[templdl]

Some cordless drills even have enough torque to do more injury then some may realize.

Ya, and using one hand while reaching as far as you can reach while standing on a ladder.

 

[qcroanoke]

"Not a personal safety issue, but always check the other side of what you're drilling, just in case there is a FA pull box conduit inline with your drill path, or something."

Always! My Dad taught me to always run your hand on the other side of what you're getting ready to drill. Bits don't care, they just keep churning away!