Access to junction box under strip

[Dustin Foelber]

I am confused in regards to a correction I received for requiring my junction box under my strip light to be accessible? I have installed hundreds of vanity lights, wall packs, and other fixtures ceiling and wall mount fixtures where you have to remove light to access j box? Can someone clarify this code?
Thank you in advance for your input.

 

[charlie b]

First of all, it is "accessible." Take a look at the Article 100 definition of that word, and you will see what I mean. You can gain access to the wiring within the junction box without damaging the structure or the finish. Nothing requires it to be "readily accessible," a good thing, because the installation you described would not meet the definition of that phrase.

Secondly, 410.8 tells me the person who wrote that correction was wrong. That article requires you to be able to inspect the wiring without first having to disconnect the wiring. It does not say you have to be able to inspect the wiring without first moving the luminaire itself out of the way.

 

[iwire]

The section is 410.24( B)

410.24 Connection of Electric-Discharge Luminaire.

(B) Access to Boxes. Electric-discharge luminaires surface mounted over concealed outlet, pull, or junction boxes and designed not to be supported solely by the outlet box shall be provided with suitable openings in the back of the lumi-naire to provide access to the wiring in the box.

This is why many strip lights come with large KOs in them so you can access the box wiring through the back of the fixture.

 

[JFletcher]

My understanding was that the wiring has to all be brought into the surface mounted luminaire, unless there is the big KO for access like Bob mentioned. If you have, say, a 14/2 coming in, and another going out, and there are no big KOs for access, both cables/all wire would have to come into the light and connections made there - you couldnt have pigtails coming thru a pop-in bushing/NM clamp with the wirenuts/connections in the box. Basically, you can get to all the wiring w/o removing the light. that's not what 410.24(b) says, and I may be wrong.

 

[ActionDave]

I am confused in regards to a correction I received for requiring my junction box under my strip light to be accessible? I have installed hundreds of vanity lights, wall packs, and other fixtures ceiling and wall mount fixtures where you have to remove light to access j box? Can someone clarify this code?
Thank you in advance for your input.

I think the code reference iwire posted is the key. Did your install comply with the part in red?

410.24 Connection of Electric-Discharge Luminaire.

(B) Access to Boxes. Electric-discharge luminaires surface mounted over concealed outlet, pull, or junction boxes and designed not to be supported solely by the outlet box shall be provided with suitable openings in the back of the luminaire to provide access to the wiring in the box.

You are permitted to have junctions in a box buried by a light fixture but only if the junction box is the only thing holding the fixture in place.

 

[GoldDigger]

Is the OP's strip light an Electric Discharge Luminaire? If not the posted section is irrelevant. Fluorescent strip? Led strip? Linear incandescent? Strip of screw sockets?

 

[ActionDave]

Is the OP's strip light an Electric Discharge Luminaire? If not the posted section is irrelevant. Fluorescent strip? Led strip? Linear incandescent? Strip of screw sockets?

Odds are it has a ballast.

 

[iwire]

Is the OP's strip light an Electric Discharge Luminaire? If not the posted section is irrelevant. Fluorescent strip? Led strip? Linear incandescent? Strip of screw sockets?

It's a 'strip light' in my area that is electrician slang for a florescent fixture.

Besides, you would hope the inspector knows this.

 

[infinity]

It's a 'strip light' in my area that is electrician slang for a florescent fixture.

Besides, you would hope the inspector knows this.

When I read strip light I assumed the same so your original code section 410.24(B) is applicable. FWIW I still see the 75 year old installation method of a 1/2" chase nipple through the center KO and the fixture mounted over the box quite often in new construction.

 

[Dustin Foelber]

Still Confused. Please help

Still Confused. Please help

I am still confused on this one. The fixture comes with a 1/2 KO. Would code require I field modify all 500 lights to allow access to the box underneath? Seems like this would void UL. I have installed many lights that have a plate in the back that covers box yet requires supplementary anchors for mounting. Would this not be a violation as well??
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Hoping I do not need to take down 500 lights...

 

[iwire]

I am still confused on this one. The fixture comes with a 1/2 KO. Would code require I field modify all 500 lights to allow access to the box underneath? Seems like this would void UL. I have installed many lights that have a plate in the back that covers box yet requires supplementary anchors for mounting. Would this not be a violation as well??
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Hoping I do not need to take down 500 lights...

500, wow. Sorry.

It does not sound like these fixtures where designed to be supplied from a flush mounted box.

If you had left just a whip out and entered it directly into the fixture you would have been all set.

 

[Dustin Foelber]

They were the specified light in a parking structure with recessed branch circuitry rough. All conduit and back boxes were encased. Any exceptions I can make my case on????

 

[iwire]

They were the specified light in a parking structure with recessed branch circuitry rough. All conduit and back boxes were encased. Any exceptions I can make my case on????

So this is poured concrete? Ouch.

I don't know of any exceptions but I surly would have a talk with the inspector to see if a reasonable solution can be found.

Perhaps move the fixture off the box and feed the fixture with FMC or LFMC from a cover on the box?

Really reaching here but maybe just open the fixture, push the wiring into the box, use a 3" hole saw with a jury rigged pilot bit that fits snug in the 1/2" KO. Once drilled use a snap in bushing. Still at least 125 hours of work.

Still a pain but likely faster than pulling the fixtures down.

 

[ActionDave]

Really reaching here but maybe just open the fixture, push the wiring into the box, use a 3" hole saw with a jury rigged pilot bit that fits snug in the 1/2" KO. Once drilled use a snap in bushing. Still at least 125 hours of work.

Still a pain but likely faster than pulling the fixtures down.

Instead of using a pilot bit he could punch out a two and a half or three inch plywood template, teck screw that to the fixture and punch out the hole.

 

[iwire]

Instead of using a pilot bit he could punch out a two and a half or three inch plywood template, teck screw that to the fixture and punch out the hole.

Either way, I have gone both routes when trying to use a hole saw over an existing hole.

 

[ActionDave]

Either way, I have gone both routes when trying to use a hole saw over an existing hole.

Interesting, I've never tried bushing out a pilot bit and I've done about every jack leg fix there is.

I agree with you about talking to the inspector. My inspectors can helpful when you treat them like a human. I don't know how it is for the OP.