Kitchen hoods

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Tudmutt

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Iowa
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Electrician
Currently on my 1st project as a Journeyman and I have never delt with kitchen hoods before and was wondering if I could get some guidance please. I have alot of shunt trip breakers associated with the outlets I need shut off during a fire. Not sure how I can tie these in with the control panel in the ansul system ansul system.
 
First:
The usual rules are, when there's a system trip:
The exhaust fan must come on or stay on.
The make-up air fan must turn off or stay off.
All electricity under the hood must lose power.
Electric gas valve: exhaust on, gas reset button.
Mech. gas valve: T-stat w/10-minute exhaust.
Horn/strobe or building alarm connection.

Second:
Is this a new or existing kitchen?
Is this a new or existing fire system?

Third:
Many shunt-trip breakers can not have their tripping coils continuously energized.
One way around this is to get the tripping power from something that will lose power.
 
Last edited:
LarryFine said:
First:
The usual rules are, when there's a system trip:
The exhaust fan must come on or stay on.
The make-up air fan must turn off or stay off.
All electricity under the hood must lose power.
Electric gas valve: exhaust on, gas reset button.
Mech. gas valve: T-stat w/10-minute exhaust.
Horn/strobe or building alarm connection.

Second:
Is this a new or existing kitchen?
Is this a new or existing fire system?

Third:
Many shunt-trip breakers can not have their tripping coils continuously energized.
One way around this is to get the tripping power from something that will lose power.
Click to expand...
It's new construction
 
Okay. It's tough to design a system from a distance, but I'll try.

Tell me:
1. Are you THE electrician, or are you working under someone?
2. Is this a designed system, with contactors matching the fans?
3. Has anything been run yet, or is construction just starting?
4. Are switches supplied? Which ones? Exhaust, intake, lights?
5. Is there any gas under either hood, or all electric appliances?
6. Are the appliances hard-wired, or are there any receptacles?
7. Is there a building alarm system? Does this system tie into it?

More questions will likely follow your responses.
 
It looks like you are in extremely capable hands with Larryfine, so I will just drop these couple suggestions that has saved me many hours of work in the past as a foreman, and has greatly helped the foremen that I now manage.
If you have enough loads underneath the hoods that require shunt trip breakers, consider asking your PM to work with the engineer to redesign these loads into 1 panelboard with 1 main shunt trip breaker. You can procure a 30ckt panelboard with a shunt trip Main loaded with breakers for the same or less than an equal amount of Contactor positions.
This will save you some time and possible confusion with field wiring of the shunt trip coils across many branch breakers.
It will also allow you to install GFCI breakers as needed for your cord & plug equipment.
Lastly, we had a local supplier recently suggest a device called the shock block for 3 phase ground fault protection in lieu of 3P/50’s and 60 gfci cutler hammer/Eaton breakers that aren’t even manufactured.
 
LarryFine said:
Okay. It's tough to design a system from a distance, but I'll try.

Tell me:
1. Are you THE electrician, or are you working under someone?
2. Is this a designed system, with contactors matching the fans?
3. Has anything been run yet, or is construction just starting?
4. Are switches supplied? Which ones? Exhaust, intake, lights?
5. Is there any gas under either hood, or all electric appliances?
6. Are the appliances hard-wired, or are there any receptacles?
7. Is there a building alarm system? Does this system tie into it?

More questions will likely follow your responses.
Click to expand...
1)yes I'm the lead electrician on this project.
2) it appears to be a designed system
3)yes,I ran power to the ansul system control panel and wires from my shunt trip breakers to the ansul system control panel. There's another hood that's 20ft away that has a built in whip with 2 wires for the hood lights,im assuming that also goes to the control panel.
4)I don't have any switches
5)I have 4 outlets total 2 under each hood.and it's gas,I know I have to hit the gas valve from the control panel.
6)system has its own alarm system I believe..

I'm trying to upload the wiring diagram but the file is to large for this website.
 
Tudmutt said:
Control panel that's attached to the ansul system.
Click to expand...
In my experience there will be a hood control panel which is provided separate from the ansul cabinet, i wouldn’t call the cabinet where the ansul bottles live a control panel per se.
In my area captiveair is the big name for kitchen hoods/CP’s
 
I'm with Sra328 about consolidating the shunt feature in a panel with a main shunt. If you do, make sure the exhaust fan doesn't wind up on this panel! Power the shunt coil from one of the devices being shut down. This means putting two hots at one of the breakers; make sure that it's listed for putting two conductors under one screw.
 
gadfly56 said:
I'm with Sra328 about consolidating the shunt feature in a panel with a main shunt. If you do, make sure the exhaust fan doesn't wind up on this panel! Power the shunt coil from one of the devices being shut down. This means putting two hots at one of the breakers; make sure that it's listed for putting two conductors under one screw.
Click to expand...
Which it is an easier and efficient way to do it, and I’ve seen it done that way, the OP may have to run it by the engineer for approval. He doesn’t want to come back on his own dime and change it to how the drawings show it. Shouldn’t be an issue though.
 
Tudmutt said:
There's another hood that's 20ft away that has a built in whip with 2 wires for the hood lights,im assuming that also goes to the control panel.
Click to expand...

If there’s a remote hood there should also be a whip for the thermocouple that needs to connect to the control panel.

Tudmutt said:
I have 4 outlets total 2 under each hood.and it's gas,I know I have to hit the gas valve from the control panel.
Click to expand...

Your gear seems to be already setup with the required shunts but as an fyi you don’t have to shunt all electric power, only that to heat-producing equipment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sra328 said:
If you have enough loads underneath the hoods that require shunt trip breakers, consider asking your PM to work with the engineer to redesign these loads into 1 panelboard with 1 main shunt trip breaker.
Click to expand...
This is a good idea if the breakers are not already in place.
 
Tudmutt said:
3)yes,I ran power to the ansul system control panel and wires from my shunt trip breakers to the ansul system control panel. There's another hood that's 20ft away that has a built in whip with 2 wires for the hood lights,im assuming that also goes to the control panel.
Click to expand...
A single pair of wires, either a switch loop or a hot and neutral, depending on the control box, should suffice for all of the shunt-trips.

4)I don't have any switches
Click to expand...
Then you need to decide where to put them and whether the make-up should be switched with the exhaust or separately, unless set by the control box.

5)I have 4 outlets total 2 under each hood.and it's gas,I know I have to hit the gas valve from the control panel.
Click to expand...
Each needs to lose power along with the hard-wired appliances.

The gas valve should also be just two conductors.

6)system has its own alarm system I believe..
Click to expand...
So you'll probably have a horn/strobe to install.

I'm trying to upload the wiring diagram but the file is to large for this website.
Click to expand...
A photo of the terminal strip and of the wiring diagram should be good enough.
 
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