screw terminals vs push in on receptacles

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sean102478

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In one of the emails I received. For home electrical safety. It says to wrap the screws of the receptacle for less likelyhood of heat build up and electrical failure on receptacles instead of using the push in backs of the receptacle. But here's my question. If using the push ins is such an issue for safety, why is it then that virtually all can lights come with push in connectors, all receptacles (residential) and various other electrical devices come with them? They are UL approved so there shouldn't be any issues with using them. Even on commerical devices now. Ballasts come with them. Fans come with them. Somewhere, somebody is testing them to make sure they are safe right?
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
I have not seen many issues with the wago type connectors that come with the fixtures yet.
I have , however, seen lots of problems thru the years with the push in connection of the receptacles. The difference is the recep. is being used and moves around a bit ever time you plug into the device.

Over time the connection in the back goes bad. We may yet see problems with the wagos.

quick_connectors.jpg
 

mcclary's electrical

Senior Member
Location
VA
In one of the emails I received. For home electrical safety. It says to wrap the screws of the receptacle for less likelyhood of heat build up and electrical failure on receptacles instead of using the push in backs of the receptacle. But here's my question. If using the push ins is such an issue for safety, why is it then that virtually all can lights come with push in connectors, all receptacles (residential) and various other electrical devices come with them? They are UL approved so there shouldn't be any issues with using them. Even on commerical devices now. Ballasts come with them. Fans come with them. Somewhere, somebody is testing them to make sure they are safe right?


When you back stab a circuit full of receptacles,,,,you're feeding through each backstab. By the time you get to the end of the circuit,,,you've gone through several spring loaded connections (four connections per receptacle the circuit flows through),,,,count that up and it adds up quickly. Over time,,,these springs get weak due to heat and metal fatigue. They get hotter and hotter until they fail.
If the circuit has 10 receptacles,,,,that's 42 connections total in the circuit. That's like plugging together 21 short extension cords to get the load running. You think the ends of the cord would get hot?
Now,,,,the wagos on a light never see more draw than the light itself. You're not feeding through them
 
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480sparky

Senior Member
Location
Iowegia
Since 2000, receptacles have been limited to #14, you can't use the back-stabs with #12.


...................Now,,,,the wagos on a light never see more draw than the light itself. You're not feeding through them

So, how do you wire a room full of cans? Drop a line from each can down to the switch box or what?
 

mcclary's electrical

Senior Member
Location
VA
Since 2000, receptacles have been limited to #14, you can't use the back-stabs with #12.




So, how do you wire a room full of cans? Drop a line from each can down to the switch box or what?

daisy chain and pig tail,,if they're 2 port

If they're 4 port,,I assume they're meant to feed through. Although I see less and less factory 4 port for that reason. Almost all flourescents come with 2 port to prevent this.
 

480sparky

Senior Member
Location
Iowegia
daisy chain and pig tail,,if they're 2 port

If they're 4 port,,I assume they're meant to feed through. Although I see less and less factory 4 port for that reason. Almost all flourescents come with 2 port to prevent this.

Every can light I've seen with Wagos pre-installed have been 4-ports.

Maybe the fluorescents come with 2-port because they're the cheapest for the manufacturer to supply.
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
If you do residential those wagos that come with the can can carry a big load depending on the # of cans that are being controlled. In many situations the wagos don't have much load on them but neither do recep. in homes.
 

GeorgeB

ElectroHydraulics engineer (retired)
Location
Greenville SC
Occupation
Retired
If using the push ins is such an issue for safety, why is it then that virtually all can lights come with push in connectors, all receptacles (residential) and various other electrical devices come with them? They are UL approved so there shouldn't be any issues with using them.
The lights are terminating loads, no feed through. I'd be much more comfortable there than in receptacles with not only higher loads probable, but feed through wiring with more "splices" via push in.
Even on commercial devices now. Ballasts come with them. Fans come with them.
The back wired COMMERCIAL receptacles I have seen (I pretend to be an engineer, not an electrician, so my view is limited) have internal pressure plates, not spring loaded connections. That connection is what I use in control panels, and I am comfortable with it. Those spring loaded things getting more popular in terminal strips ... I prefer not, even with low currents.
 

jim dungar

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Wisconsin
Occupation
PE (Retired) - Power Systems
The mechanics behind a receptacle 'stab' connection and the ones used in a Wago? are totally different. Comparing the two is like comparing the operation of a diesel versus a gasoline internal combustion engine.

Push-in does not always equal a bad connection.
Think of a Square D I-Line breaker.
 

petersonra

Senior Member
Location
Northern illinois
Occupation
engineer
I don't have a major issue with the push in terminals. Believe it or not, they generally actually make a better connection, especially under vibration.

I am not overjoyed with the back stab connections on outlets, but they work fine, even if they look a bit cheesy.
 

garbo

Senior Member
push ins

push ins

The push in for receptacle is only good for a #14 coper wire. I questioned these when they first came out over 30 years ago. Why did no manufacturer ever came out with an approved push in for the ground wire. For the best results use a wire nut then at least 6 inches of tape around wire nut and wires. I never use the push in on receptacles. Found too many overheated wires due to them. tom grabowski
 

mcclary's electrical

Senior Member
Location
VA
The push in for receptacle is only good for a #14 coper wire. I questioned these when they first came out over 30 years ago. Why did no manufacturer ever came out with an approved push in for the ground wire. For the best results use a wire nut then at least 6 inches of tape around wire nut and wires. I never use the push in on receptacles. Found too many overheated wires due to them. tom grabowski



No offense Tom,,,,but nobodys taping wirenuts on a residence on my job. Why the tape?
 

480sparky

Senior Member
Location
Iowegia
The push in for receptacle is only good for a #14 coper wire. I questioned these when they first came out over 30 years ago. Why did no manufacturer ever came out with an approved push in for the ground wire. For the best results use a wire nut then at least 6 inches of tape around wire nut and wires. I never use the push in on receptacles. Found too many overheated wires due to them. tom grabowski

The only good that can come from taping wire nuts is the profit the manufacturers make.
 
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