Mounting to asbestos tile

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JJWalecka

Senior Member
Location
New England
Question regarding old asbestos tile...which is mounted as shingles on the side of a house. I was told by someone that it is tough to mount to.

Is it hard like cement? Would a regular wood screw be installed easily without a pilot hole? Can I staple to it with a hammer easily?
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
Drilling that stuff is like drilling in rock and it can be pretty brittle so it may crack if your using a hammer drill. Definitely need a pilot hole and obviously you don't want to create any dust.
 

Knuckle Dragger

Master Electrician Electrical Contractor 01752
Location
Marlborough, Massachusetts USA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
It can be brittle. Avoid hammering directly against it.
A holesaw can cut through it no problem. Similar in ways like Hardie Backer but much more brittle if that helps describe it.
I would pre drill holes for screws or use a self tapping screw.
I would say no to banging Staples in to. Maybe predrill then tap in GENTLY if you must use them.
One more thing.
The bits you use should be sharp and will probably be one timers.
Remember it is asbestos.
 
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drcampbell

Senior Member
Location
The Motor City, Michigan USA
Occupation
Registered Professional Engineer
Is it something like this: http://www.gaf-weatherside.com/ ?

It's basically fiber-reinforced fine-aggregate concrete. You can drill it with a hammer drill and a masonry bit, but it's thin and cracks easily.
You might be able to mount something lightweight to it with sheet-metal screws with a really aggressive thread. For larger stuff, such as a meter box, you'll need to drill through the siding and fasten to the sheathing. Install something soft, such as rubber washers, on the siding and don't tighten the screws all the way.
 

sameguy

Senior Member
Location
New York
Occupation
Master Elec./JW retired
I'm not sure I would touch asbo. tiles in this law suit days.
It is fragile, cracks, chips, breaks, but I have (back in the good old days) used Red Heads, K6, plastic anchor, drilled holes in it. I would today use a spray bottle with water to keep it moist and ~hand bag each cut/drill hole; if I was going to do it.
 

Besoeker3

Senior Member
Location
UK
Occupation
Retired Electrical Engineer
I'm not sure I would touch asbo. tiles in this law suit days.
Agreed. Here in UK, only those qualified, licensed specialists and suitably attired are permitted to handle asbestos. Rightly so in my opinion.

My dear wife, who is from "Gone With The Wind" country thinks the US legislation on asbestos is similar.

Asbestos related diseases are slow to display symptoms and can reduce life expectancy.
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Aside from asbestos handling issues - drill holes and put fasteners through and into the sheathing behind it. It is likely to crack if you don't.
 

JJWalecka

Senior Member
Location
New England
Drilling that stuff is like drilling in rock and it can be pretty brittle so it may crack if your using a hammer drill. Definitely need a pilot hole and obviously you don't want to create any dust.


So a really sharp drill bit...not on hammer.... going slow....is the way to go?
 

JJWalecka

Senior Member
Location
New England
Aside from asbestos handling issues - drill holes and put fasteners through and into the sheathing behind it. It is likely to crack if you don't.

Instead of clipping the low voltage cable...with clips or Staples to the asbestos tiles....I wonder if a epoxy would work to adhere the clips to the asbestos?
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
I can't believe that, coming from New England you have never worked with this stuff. All electrical trades should know it. Starting in the late 40's asbestos fortified fiber cement board was made into shingles. (I'm not sure of the percentage of asbestos.) The idea was that it was maintenance free and fire proof. It replaced wood siding- (it was the aluminum or vinyl siding of the day). Originally it was 1/8" thick. Then in the 60's, 1/4" thick product was introduced. I believe the asbestos was eliminated. Today we have Hardi Board and others that comes in lengths and is installed like lap siding.

To drill or make a hole in ANY of it you need a masonry bit or a carbide grit hole saw.

Like I say, I don't know the percentage of asbestos in the early stuff but you should wear a dust mask because you are creating dust. That would be any 1/8" thick stuff. The shingles themselves are not classified hazardous. I, as a homeowner, can remove them and put them out with the trash. However, a contractor removing them must be certified and dispose of them properly.

Any 1/4" thick stuff you can assume has no asbestos.

-Hal
 

PaulMmn

Senior Member
Location
Union, KY, USA
Occupation
EIT - Engineer in Training, Lafayette College
The asbestos/cement siding is thin, I'd say between 1/8" and 1/4". It is brittle. Think of it as a cracker-- it will shatter, pieces will break off if you drill or bump against it with a sharp elbow!

It's generally not considered a hazard if it is not disturbed! But any drilling, removal, etc. needs to be handled by licensed asbestos guys.
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
The asbestos/cement siding is thin, I'd say between 1/8" and 1/4". It is brittle. Think of it as a cracker-- it will shatter, pieces will break off if you drill or bump against it with a sharp elbow!

It's generally not considered a hazard if it is not disturbed! But any drilling, removal, etc. needs to be handled by licensed asbestos guys.

Did you read any of what I said above??

-Hal
 

growler

Senior Member
Location
Atlanta,GA
Question regarding old asbestos tile...which is mounted as shingles on the side of a house. I was told by someone that it is tough to mount to.

Is it hard like cement? Would a regular wood screw be installed easily without a pilot hole? Can I staple to it with a hammer easily?


I doubt if you can mount anything much to the tile because it wouldn't hold much.

You will have to drill through it and mount to a stud or maybe a plywood backboard.
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
Getting back to the original question. OP says he needs to fasten LV wiring to the shingles. What kind of wiring or cable? Cable TV/satellite installer material suppliers stock several alternatives that work well on those shingles.

https://www.thesatelliteshop.net/installation-supplies-clips-c-1105_1110.html

I use the GC12BLK with a pilot hole to hold RG-6 directly to asbestos shingles. If necessary use a longer screw if you need to go into the sheathing.

Coming from a telecom background, I have many different size one-hole straps, the smallest will hold a #12 THHN ground wire to a wall.

-Hal
 

JJWalecka

Senior Member
Location
New England
I can't believe that, coming from New England you have never worked with this stuff.
Well... believe it ?

Almost exclusive commercial experience on my end


I appreciate the time everyone took to provide feedback

I ended up buy a tile bit. I'm sure I'll be alright...just didn't want to walk into it blind.
 

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drcampbell

Senior Member
Location
The Motor City, Michigan USA
Occupation
Registered Professional Engineer
... I wonder if a epoxy would work to adhere the clips to the asbestos?
Not if it's painted or dirty, which it usually is. The epoxy can't hold any more firmly than the underlying adhesion of the paint to the siding.

So a really sharp drill bit...not on hammer.... going slow....is the way to go?
No, a masonry bit and hammer drill. It's abrasive and a sharp bit won't stay sharp long. Delicate pressure and high rpm; it's brittle and will shatter easily. Drill/cut it as if it were window glass.

On the other hand, it'll resist just about everything except breakage. Fire, moisture, termites, fungus, ...
Ever see a house with vinyl siding when the neighboring house had a fire? Looks like a hot-fudge sundae that's been out in the sun.
 
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