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Thread: Relocating a Pool Deck Box

  1. #1
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    Relocating a Pool Deck Box

    I had a call this past week to relocate a pool deck box for a customer with a gunite pool. She wanted to permanently remove the diving board and move the deck box into a nearby shrub bed. She had the pool guy remove the diving board and cut a 4" x 4" trench in the concrete decking to the shrub bed. The pipe coming out of the niche for the light was 3/4" brass and had a 90 degree elbow stubbing up through the footing for the diving board. The footing for the diving board was not demolished. I wasn't sure of the correct way to do this so, I did the following :
    • I cut the brass pipe to about 1 1/2" and cut a 3/4" slot in the end of that pipe
    • I then installed the new light fixture with a 25' cord into the niche and out of the end of the brass pipe
    • I then pulled the light cord along with a # 12 green wire through a piece of Carlon non-metallic seal-tight to the new deck box location
    • I drilled and tapped the brass pipe and bonded the green # 12 to the brass pipe
    • I then sleeved the flex PVC down into the brass pipe and sealed it with silicone caulking
    • The new concrete will be poured over the flex PVC and the chances of ever installing a new light (if necessary) is a shot in a million (I advised the customer before doing this)

    Does anyone have a better way of doing this (I don't think I'll run into this again in my lifetime but I'd like to know)? I know what I did is probably not absolutely Code compliant but I couldn't think of another way of doing this. I did not look down inside the niche but I'm assuming a #8 wire was used to bond it to the rebar of the pool shell. My intent was to make it as safe as possible. I also installed a new dead-front GFCI ahead of the pool light in the pool equipment area. The HO had it on a GFCI breaker about 100' away in the basement.

    Thanks in advance.

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    Did you ask the customer if she would be okay with a flush deck box?




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    I'm sure others can add or correct this. I believe a #8 is required to the light and keep the box 4" above the deck and 8" above the water line.
    I apologise I don't have my code book with me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by blkmagik21 View Post
    Did you ask the customer if she would be okay with a flush deck box?
    The alternative was to keep the deck box in place and put a planter over it - she didn't want that. Of course that would have been the easy way out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Knuckle Dragger View Post
    I'm sure others can add or correct this. I believe a #8 is required to the light and keep the box 4" above the deck and 8" above the water line.
    I apologise I don't have my code book with me.
    I'm guessing you would be correct if this were a new installation. However, I had to deal with the situation at hand. Installing a #8 inside a 1/2" flex PVC along with the SO cable from the light would have been a bear. That's why I re-bonded the brass pipe with the # 12.

    I was more interested in what others might have done differently than what I did in this same situation (Code compliant or not). Personally speaking, if this were my pool I would have chosen to put a planter over the deck box and been done with it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by goldstar View Post
    I'm guessing you would be correct if this were a new installation. However, I had to deal with the situation at hand. Installing a #8 inside a 1/2" flex PVC along with the SO cable from the light would have been a bear. That's why I re-bonded the brass pipe with the # 12.

    I was more interested in what others might have done differently than what I did in this same situation (Code compliant or not). Personally speaking, if this were my pool I would have chosen to put a planter over the deck box and been done with it.
    Why did you have to use 1/2 inch flex

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    Quote Originally Posted by david View Post
    Why did you have to use 1/2 inch flex
    I could have used 3/4" flex but I wanted to insert the pool end of the 1/2" flex down inside the existing brass 3/4" pipe that was stubbed up. Again, not sure I did the right thing but I thought it was the best solution at the time. In addition I wanted to re-use the existing metal deck box that had ALL 3/4" threaded hubs. I had to use a reducing bushing in the hub that the luminaire wire was in. BTW, the original installation did not have a # 8 installed. I'm guessing that the niche was bonded to the rebar during the original installation. The luminaire SO cable was # 16 and the wiring back to the pool equipment from the deck box was # 12 solid THWN (B-W-G) I believe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by goldstar View Post
    I could have used 3/4" flex but I wanted to insert the pool end of the 1/2" flex down inside the existing brass 3/4" pipe that was stubbed up.
    Quote Originally Posted by goldstar View Post
    BTW, the original installation did not have a # 8 installed.
    the # 8 copper wire type bond/ equipment ground is only required when the original brass Bond /equipment ground is not there

    Quote Originally Posted by goldstar View Post
    I'm guessing that the niche was bonded to the rebar during the original installation. .

    That is not for fault clearing and both are required . Think of the brass or # 8 AWG as a redundant fault clearing path like what is required in hospitals. The under water light fixture redundant ground / bond has a up sizing requirement for the portion of the branch circuit from the deck box to the nitch that you do not see in hospitals.

    edit Although the bonding grid is required to be connected to a #12 equipment ground to at least one branch circuit supplying the pool
    Last edited by david; 04-20-19 at 09:17 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by david View Post
    the # 8 copper wire type bond/ equipment ground is only required when the original brass Bond /equipment ground is not there




    That is not for fault clearing and both are required . Think of the brass or # 8 AWG as a redundant fault clearing path like what is required in hospitals. The under water light fixture redundant ground / bond has a up sizing requirement for the portion of the branch circuit from the deck box to the nitch that you do not see in hospitals.

    edit Although the bonding grid is required to be connected to a #12 equipment ground to at least one branch circuit supplying the pool
    The grid will, by default, be connected to the EGC when you land the bond wire on the lug of a pump motor or other equipment. The only place that I know of that directly says to connect the grid to the EGC is when using a double insulated pump motor with no EGC pin. I don't see anywhere that says bonding grid must be connected to a #12 EGC on at least one circuit supplying the pool.
    If you aim at nothing, you will hit it every time!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Little Bill View Post
    The grid will, by default, be connected to the EGC when you land the bond wire on the lug of a pump motor or other equipment. The only place that I know of that directly says to connect the grid to the EGC is when using a double insulated pump motor with no EGC pin. I don't see anywhere that says bonding grid must be connected to a #12 EGC on at least one circuit supplying the pool.
    I just want to make sure we're all on the same page. The niche is bonded to the EQBG via a #8 solid wire. The existing niche shell is metallic and WAS connected to the metallic deck box via a brass pipe. So, by its nature the deck box was essentially connected (or bonded) to the EQBG. Once I cut that deck box out and relocated it then it was no longer connected to the EQBG. Thus my reasoning for installing a # 12 wire between the brass pipe and the relocated deck box. Should it have been a #8 solid ? Maybe so but that will have to be a mortal sin I'll have to pay for if and when I get to heaven.

    This is a recent article that was published in April issue of EC Magazine :

    http://www.pceca.net/images/stories/...ming_pools.pdf

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