Roped in to wiring my FIRST pool ! ? ! ?

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davedottcom

Senior Member
2-Part Question here guys!

Part-1) The underwater niche light is 120Volts! :shock:
http://www.americanbestpoolsupply.com/Pool_Light_homepage.htm
It's a Jandy JL 120-100

The only code I find on lights over 15 volts is 680.33 (B) which is for cord & plug connected lights. That doesn't sound like it applies to this!

Can someone point me in the right direction please! :?


Part-2) Is it necessary for ANY part of the #8 Bonding to be Continuos back to the panel?

Thanks in advance,

Dave[/b]
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
The niche for the fixture gets bonded to the lighting deck box with a #8. This can be stranded, the only time that a part of the pool bonding is permitted to be stranded. Don't forget the potting compound on the termination of the bonding conductor in the niche. You need to read all of 680.23.

Is it necessary for ANY part of the #8 Bonding to be Continuos back to the panel?

No
 

hey_poolboy

Senior Member
Location
Illinois
Electrick is right... The first one is fun. If you have a good relationship with the inspector(s) they can often be very helpful.

Work with a builder that uses only fiber-optic lighting and it makes life much easier.
 

davedottcom

Senior Member
Allow me to clarify!
I'm wiring (1) pool. My first and last! :lol:

I have been looking over 680 for awhile but I'm just concerned about the 120V light. I'll put it on a GFCI brkr and bond the niche with a #8... just wondering if anything else is required?

And as far as the bonding for the poolstructure, I'm just wondering if the #8 has to be continuos all the way back to the panel or if multiple bonding jumpers are permitted?

Thanks again,
Dave
 

davedottcom

Senior Member
Thanks Trevor!

Is there anywhere else besides 680.33(B) in the NEC that addresses a 120 volt underwater light?
 

hey_poolboy

Senior Member
Location
Illinois
The bonding (as I recall ) does not need to be one continuous conductor.
We always do it continuous though. Just make sure you hit your handrails, ladders, wire mesh or rebar, any electric cover equipment, pump, heater, and light niche.

Don't forget to land on any volley-ball, or basketball jigs that may be installed poolside as well.
 

suemarkp

Senior Member
Location
Kent, WA
Occupation
Retired Engineer
davedottcom said:
Allow me to clarify!
I have been looking over 680 for awhile but I'm just concerned about the 120V light. I'll put it on a GFCI brkr and bond the niche with a #8... just wondering if anything else is required?

Make sure you use a listed pool light deck box.
If you use PVC conduit for this, you have to upsize the EGC to #8 insulated from the panel to the pool light deck box.
No splices in the EGC (from panel to deck box) except for a few limited exceptions.
Bond the pool light niche on both the front and back to the bonding grid -- the back goes to the pool structure grid and the front one goes to the deck box. There will most likely be a green wire in the pool light fixture cord, and this also terminates in the deck box.
 

davedottcom

Senior Member
Mark,
I am using 1" pvc for the light but I'm not using a deck box. The pipe is going to go directly to the panel, about 70' away where it will be fed from a GFCI brkr. (The light has a 100' cord!) :D
I am planning on pulling a #8 solid along with the pool light cord. The outside of the niche is already bonded to the structure.
There are No Handrails, or diving boards, or ladders, or screen enclosure to bond! :D

Thanks,
Dave
 

curt swartz

Electrical Contractor - San Jose, CA
Location
San Jose, CA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Dave

Please review 680.23 and 680.24. You need to connect the raceway from the pool light to a listed swimming pool junction box. Running the raceway directly to the panel is not acceptable.


680.23(B)(2) Wiring Extending Directly to the Forming Shell Conduit shall be installed from the forming shell to a junction box or other enclosure conforming to the requirements in 680.24. Conduit shall be rigid metal, intermediate metal, liquidtight flexible nonmetallic, or rigid nonmetallic.

680.24 Junction Boxes and Enclosures for Transformers or Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters

(A) Junction Boxes A junction box connected to a conduit that extends directly to a forming shell or mounting bracket of a no-niche luminaire (fixture) shall meet the requirements of this section.

(1) Construction The junction box shall be listed as a swimming pool junction box and shall comply with the following conditions:

(1) Be equipped with threaded entries or hubs or a nonmetallic hub
(2) Be comprised of copper, brass, suitable plastic, or other approved corrosion-resistant material
(3) Be provided with electrical continuity between every connected metal conduit and the grounding terminals by means of copper, brass, or other approved corrosion-resistant metal that is integral with the box
 

davedottcom

Senior Member
Hi Curt,
680.23(B)(2) Wiring Extending Directly to the Forming Shell

Bare with me here, like I said, it's my first time! :oops:
To me that sounds like wires that are being "hard wired" in the forming shell.
(B)(3) Talks about fixtures that are supplied by a flexible cord or cable...

I'm not sure if I'm reading into this wrong or not but I don't think the cord from the light is considered "wiring extended to the forming shell"

But, lets say I'm wrong and you're right...I could put the "pool J box" just below the panel. Run the pvc into it and then directly into the panel.
But what would that solve?

I'm not following this! :?

Dave

editted to read (B)(3)
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
As Curt said you must install the deck box. The box must be listed for it's use. One reason is that a wet niche fixture will have water in it. If you ran a conduit underground into the house under the panel the pool may actually drain out through your conduit.


If you use PVC conduit for this, you have to upsize the EGC to #8 insulated from the panel to the pool light deck box.


Where does it say that you need the #8 back to the panel? The EGC from the panel is required to be #12 or larger not #8. Look at 680.23(F)(2). The #8 is from the niche to the deck box.
 

davedottcom

Senior Member
So the deck box acts like a "valve" so to speak!? Not letting water past that point?

But, the fact that the pvc will turn 90* straight up for about 3 ft into the bottom of the outdoor panel should guarantee the same thing! Water can not go "Up" any higher than the water level of the pool, correct?

Dave
 

davedottcom

Senior Member
LawnGuyLandSparky said:
How would you legally terminate the multi-conductor cable inside a panel? Normally you couldn't even install that cable in conduit.

Well, how about bringing the "shell" pipe to a pvc box mounted on the wall next to the panel, put a water proof switch & cover in it and then run pipe to the panel.

I should add that I'm working under the 2002 NEC!!!

2002 680.23(B)(2) says, conduit shall be installed from the forming shell to a suitable Junction box or other enclosure located as provided in 680.24.

2002 680.24 says the jbox must be listed and labeled "For the Purpose" so if it's not installed In the deck it wouldn't need to be listed for use in a deck.

In other words if I used a regular pvc (bell box) mounted on the wall next to the panel That particular box would be listed for That particular use.

680.24(A)(2) (a) & (b) give minimum requirements for distances away from pool and water level which it would conform to both Vertical & Horizontal spacings.

I appreciate ALL of your comments, please continue!
:)

Dave
 
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