0-10 volt wiring for 2x4 fixtures

[T74]

Does anyone have experience with wiring 2x4 fixtures for 0-10 volt dimming.

I was planning on using MC-PCS, which is MC with the two dimming wires in it (purple and gray)

Problem is that the j box for the light fixtures has separate sections for line voltage and dimming. Do I have to run separate cables?

 

[Little Bill]

I've never ran "all in one cable", I've always just ran separate power and low voltage conductors. I don't know for sure how you would handle this with a single cable and two compartments. Since the wires would be inside the light, I would think you could just separate the wires and run to each compartment of the JB.

 

[nrgdarrel]

I have and I ran a separate cable. Dimming was a afterthought. I also could not find a dimmer that matched the fixture, ( even after calling the mfg rep). I just installed a standard toggle switch and it dims about 70%
The same as a $100.00 dimmer. Also no more than 8 50 watt fixtures per switch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LarryFine]

See my suggestion in your other thread.

 

[dpcarls1598]

In the fixtures I have ever used, the center divider snaps out. This way you have a separate compartment for class 1 and 2 and a single compartment for class 1 when needed. I’ll bet the divider snaps or breaks out for that purpose.

 

[hbiss]

This LED 0-10V dimming thing is really getting to be a ridiculous. Everybody, manufacturers and including the NEC needs to get their act together and standardize.

There is no reason there can't be a KO in that partition for the LV dimming conductors (covered with the sheath) to pass through into LV compartment when using luminary cable.

If it is removable, take it out and throw it away. Splice your LV leaving the sheath on the purple and gray within a couple of inches of your splice or connection. Just push the line and LV conductors to separate sides.

You have work to do, not worry about stupid Code things that nobody can understand.

-Hal

 

[hillbilly1]

Some fixtures it is in the same compartment as the driver, which can be a problem if the dimming loop cable is not rated for the line voltage. I always pull the dimming wires outside of the fixture and splice there. Using 4 conductor cable might give issues with induced voltage on the dimming input, it’s 0-10 vdc, so it might give some flaky dimming results. Don’t know how resistant the driver would be to that.

 

[LarryFine]

See my suggestion in your other thread.

While a PITA, you could loop a short length of MC sheath with two wires in it from one section to the other.

 

[hbiss]

I assume you mean out a KO in the line voltage side, around the outside and back in a KO in the LV side? Would you use an NM connector in the line side KO? Have to close it up, no?

-Hal

 

[LarryFine]

From what I can see, each compartment has three KOs. I meant bring your 4-cond MC in one KO on the line side, using a standard 3/8" MC connector. Then, using two more MC connectors and a length of MC sheath that's been stripped off of of the MC, feed the control wires to the LV side. If you strip the 4-cond. long enough, you won't need to make joints in the LV wires.

No NM connector.

 

[ActionDave]

I would move the divider out of the way. There is not going to be any separation on the other end where the dimmer hooks up so why have it on the light fixture.

 

[hbiss]

From what I can see, each compartment has three KOs. I meant bring your 4-cond MC in one KO on the line side, using a standard 3/8" MC connector. Then, using two more MC connectors and a length of MC sheath that's been stripped off of of the MC, feed the control wires to the LV side. If you strip the 4-cond. long enough, you won't need to make joints in the LV wires.

No NM connector.

The sheath I was talking about was the outer blue PVC covering on the purple and gray LV conductors that actually provides the separation from the line voltage conductors. I would end the MC in the line voltage compartment then bring the sheathed purple and gray back out and around like you suggest. That's why I suggested an NM connector to close down on it.

But I'm of the school that says all that is unnecessary. Just make your connections in the box as I said above and Dave says also.

-Hal

 

[hillbilly1]

The sheath I was talking about was the outer blue PVC covering on the purple and gray LV conductors that actually provides the separation from the line voltage conductors. I would end the MC in the line voltage compartment then bring the sheathed purple and gray back out and around like you suggest. That's why I suggested an NM connector to close down on it.

But I'm of the school that says all that is unnecessary. Just make your connections in the box as I said above and Dave says also.

-Hal

Which manufacture is doing this? The ones I have installed do not have a sheath, they are loose just like a ballast wire with quick connects on the ends.

The sheath I was talking about was the outer blue PVC covering on the purple and gray LV conductors that actually provides the separation from the line voltage conductors. I would end the MC in the line voltage compartment then bring the sheathed purple and gray back out and around like you suggest. That's why I suggested an NM connector to close down on it.

But I'm of the school that says all that is unnecessary. Just make your connections in the box as I said above and Dave says also.

-Hal

The last couple I done did not have a sheath, just wires off the driver just like a ballast.

 

[hbiss]

Which manufacture is doing this? The ones I have installed do not have a sheath, they are loose just like a ballast wire with quick connects on the ends.

The last couple I done did not have a sheath, just wires off the driver just like a ballast.

No. This is the conductors in the luminary cable. The purple and gray are wrapped together with a blue PVC jacket then placed in the cable with the THHN line voltage conductors. This PVC jacket is what provides the barrier between the LV and line voltage conductors in the cable. When you remove the armor of the MC you still have the purple and gray still wrapped up and still providing a barrier if you utilize it.

-Hal

 

[hillbilly1]

So it is a fixture with a whip then? The 2x2 and 2x4 fixtures that I have hooked up, has the power and dimmer wires wrapped with a bread tie, and pull out together with the access plate, just like the old two ballast flouresents.

 

[Little Bill]

So it is a fixture with a whip then? The 2x2 and 2x4 fixtures that I have hooked up, has the power and dimmer wires wrapped with a bread tie, and pull out together with the access plate, just like the old two ballast flouresents.

I think you're still not understanding. They are talking about MC cable that also contains the 2-conductor cable. The cable has it's own sheath/outer cover inside the MC sheath.

 

[hillbilly1]

I think you're still not understanding. They are talking about MC cable that also contains the 2-conductor cable. The cable has it's own sheath/outer cover inside the MC sheath.

Oh, ok! Now I get it! I've never used that particular type of cable. Always used seperate low volt cable.