0-10V Dimming Again

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jap

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Can 300v rated CL3 Speaker wire be used for the Purple and Grey connection from a wall switch to a dimmable LED Fixture?
I only ask because I have some of that laying around.

I touched on this before but never got a good feeling about it.

The Power and the 0-10v dimming leads share the same compartment in the Fixture with no divider.
The Wall Dimmer has the 120v power, switchleg and purple and grey dimming leads coming out of it.

MC Cable is daisy chained to 4 fixtures and a 12/4 MC cable is ran down to the switch.

Can CL3 2 conductor cable be pulled fixture to fixture and down the wall into the existing switch box and be legal?


Not sure where the dividing line is between sharing 120v and Low Voltage cable in the same enclosure where there is no divider or if that's even acceptable at all.


JAP>
 
How would your dimmer wiring be routed into the fixture ?
 
augie47 said:
How would your dimmer wiring be routed into the fixture ?
Click to expand...

The dimmer leads (Purple and Grey) are under the same quick access cover that's on top of the fixture for the power leads with no divider.
They come directly from the ballast also.

JAP>
 
I have not ever found a good answer either. I know that southwire makes an mc cable with 0-10v dimming conductors but is that the only option. Why can't we use 14/4 or 12/4. That is what I did. I actual ran a Class 2 cable and 14/4. We ended up just using the 14/4.
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
Take a look at 725.136(D).
Click to expand...

So evidently, I can use the 1/2" ko next to the power entrance conductors as long as after I strip the outer sheath back, I keep the CL3 "Conductors" at least 1/4' away from the power wires at the fixture and in the 4 square box in the wall where the dimmer will be.

The cable will more than likely be run above the layin ceiling ziptied to the existing MC between the fixtures then fished down the wall and into the exisitng Switch outlet box.

Just seems odd.

JAP>
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I have not ever found a good answer either. I know that southwire makes an mc cable with 0-10v dimming conductors but is that the only option. Why can't we use 14/4 or 12/4. That is what I did. I actual ran a Class 2 cable and 14/4. We ended up just using the 14/4.
Click to expand...

This is an existing situation.
The lights are on a standard wall occupancy sensor at the present time.
The lights are dimmable but they did not bring the dimming leads from the fixtures down to the switch in the wall.
Now they want them dimmed.

I really don't want to take loose what's already there.
Would rather just add the 0-10v wiring that was left out originally.

If I need to I'll 3/8" flex to each fixture with a #16 or so thhn Purple and Grey to each fixture and down the wall if I need too.
But seems I can just run a 2 conductor 16 guage cable or the like down the wall and to each fixture.

Everything is in standard 12/2wg MC cable.

JAP>
 
AS best I understand Art 725, your plan seems to be compliant. The only unanswered question in my mind is how do you confirm the power supply is a listed Class 3 supply. The few dimming system that I have inspected were Class 1 or Class 2.
 
jap said:
So evidently, I can use the 1/2" ko next to the power entrance conductors as long as after I strip the outer sheath back, I keep the CL3 "Conductors" at least 1/4' away from the power wires at the fixture and in the 4 square box in the wall where the dimmer will be.

The cable will more than likely be run above the layin ceiling ziptied to the existing MC between the fixtures then fished down the wall and into the exisitng Switch outlet box.

Just seems odd.

JAP>
Click to expand...
Yes, that is how I read the section I cited.
 
On a new install I'd seriously consider using it.
To me it would pay not to have to worry about it.

JAP>
 
jap said:
So evidently, I can use the 1/2" ko next to the power entrance conductors as long as after I strip the outer sheath back, I keep the CL3 "Conductors" at least 1/4' away from the power wires at the fixture and in the 4 square box in the wall where the dimmer will be.
Click to expand...

This sounds compliant. Keeping the 1/4" space in the wall box seems silly when the device it connects to has both Class2 and line voltage connections.
 
infinity said:
This sounds compliant. Keeping the 1/4" space in the wall box seems silly when the device it connects to has both Class2 and line voltage connections.
Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly. That's why I mentioned stripping the outer sheath as short as possible.
The wirenut covering up the "Conductors" leaves the eggs somewhat back in their basket although someone coming along behind me would probably wonder why I did that in the 1st place.

JAP>
 
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