0-10v & Dimming Wiring

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Alwayslearningelec

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Pretty basic setup here.

Occupancy sensor is 24v .

Fixture has 0-10v integral dimming driver.

Don’t know exact wall switch type but obviously has to be dimmer.

Just not 100% certain on few wiring things.

1. I would need to have both power & 0-10v from fixture to the power pack?

2. Wire from dimmer switch would be what and ran to where? I believe I go from switch to power pack with line voltage but then I need to bring 0-10v wires from switch to side of power pack where I have the wires from the fixture and splice. Correct?

1712002762834.png
 
Check what was specified; it's hard to say what the design intent is without making some assumptions.

Assuming that this is a typical power pack, low voltage occupancy sensor and low voltage dimming switch, the wiring diagram should look like below (per Wattstopper lighting controls, but other brands are similar as long as they aren't digital).

Not sure what "RP;22" is supposed to mean, but hopefully it isn't a relay panel, and it's intended to power the fan coil unit. That switch also looks like an on/off switch, but maybe there are notes indicating that this room is supposed to have dimming capabilities.
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PD1972 said:
Check what was specified; it's hard to say what the design intent is without making some assumptions.

Assuming that this is a typical power pack, low voltage occupancy sensor and low voltage dimming switch, the wiring diagram should look like below (per Wattstopper lighting controls, but other brands are similar as long as they aren't digital).

Not sure what "RP;22" is supposed to mean, but hopefully it isn't a relay panel, and it's intended to power the fan coil unit. That switch also looks like an on/off switch, but maybe there are notes indicating that this room is supposed to have dimming capabilities.
View attachment 2570864
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Thanks. I agree it does look like an on off switch but that wouldn't make sense with a fixture that is 0-10v dimmable ...correct?
Wow.6.wires out of the dimmer switch?
 
Would you be able to have an on/off switch with a dimming fixture as in this scenario....or ...would that make sense? Obviously not I'd think.
 
Alwayslearningelec said:
Would you be able to have an on/off switch with a dimming fixture as in this scenario....or ...would that make sense? Obviously not I'd think.
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The low voltage switches associated with power packs and occupancy sensors should be on/off/raise/lower so it should be able to turn the fixture on/off. If it looks like it only has two buttons, the expectation would be that on/off is a double press versus raise/lower which would be holding down the paddle.

You don't need light reduction controls in every instance so dimming may not be a requirement.
 
PD1972 said:
The low voltage switches associated with power packs and occupancy sensors should be on/off/raise/lower so it should be able to turn the fixture on/off. If it looks like it only has two buttons, the expectation would be that on/off is a double press versus raise/lower which would be holding down the paddle.

You don't need light reduction controls in every instance so dimming may not be a requirement.
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That's a little counterintuitive to me. If I have a fixture with a 0-10v dimming driver shouldn't it be controlled by something that enables it to be dimmed and not on/off?
 
Alwayslearningelec said:
Pretty basic setup here.

Occupancy sensor is 24v .

Fixture has 0-10v integral dimming driver.

Don’t know exact wall switch type but obviously has to be dimmer.

Just not 100% certain on few wiring things.

1. I would need to have both power & 0-10v from fixture to the power pack?

2. Wire from dimmer switch would be what and ran to where? I believe I go from switch to power pack with line voltage but then I need to bring 0-10v wires from switch to side of power pack where I have the wires from the fixture and splice. Correct?

View attachment 2570861
Click to expand...
That does not look like a dimer switch symbol to me. As others have said a 0-10V dimming ballast comes standard on a lot of fixtures. Are you sure dimming is required in this room or on this project? If so, look at a cut sheet of the make and model of the occ. sensors and switches you are providing. Typically the manufacturer will have wiring diagrams for almost all scenarios and switching schemes.
 
PD1972 said:
Many times new LED fixtures come with 0-10V dimming as the default. Just because it's there doesn't mean it needs to be used.
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How would you know whether it's an option vs a requirement? I have eight 100w LED's (that have the pink/purple tails) to install for a customer, so I'm assuming I would go with a 1000w dimmer. However the 1000w dimmers I have found do not have the 10v connections, and the 10v dimmers I have found seem to tap out at 450 watts. Wiring diagram that came with the lights is useless. Says to use a 10v dimmer "if it's required," so not really sure how to navigate that one. I have no clue whether it's required or not.
 
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gazellah said:
How would you know whether it's an option vs a requirement? I have eight 100w LED's (that have the pink/purple tails) to install for a customer, so I'm assuming I would go with a 1000w dimmer. However the 1000w dimmers I have found do not have the 10v connections, and the 10v dimmers I have found seem to tap out at 450 watts. Wiring diagram that came with the lights is useless. Says to use a 10v dimmer "if it's required," so not really sure how to navigate that one. I have no clue whether it's required or not.
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They make a module that has 0-10 input to multiple 0-10 outputs. Big Orange uses them on their stores. They turn the lights off and on with contactors. The thing is, manufacturers are very conservative on how many fixtures can go on one 0-10 output.
 
gazellah said:
I have eight 100w LED's (that have the pink/purple tails) to install for a customer, so I'm assuming I would go with a 1000w dimmer. However the 1000w dimmers I have found do not have the 10v connections, and the 10v dimmers I have found seem to tap out at 450 watts. Wiring diagram that came with the lights is useless. Says to use a 10v dimmer "if it's required,"
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I think you are a little confused.

If you were putting the dimmer in the line side supplying the fixtures then you would indeed need a 120 volt dimmer capable of handling 1000W.

But you are using fixtures that have 0-10V dimming. You would use a 0-10V low voltage dimmer connected to the gray/violet leads. A 0-10V dimmer does not connect to line voltage. You can use CL2 wiring or luminary cable that has the line voltage and the CL2 low voltage conductors all in one.

As a side note, if you leave the gray/violet conductors from a fixture unconnected and just cap them off, the fixture will be at full brightness just like any other fixture that doesn't have 0-10V dimming. However, if you connect the gray/violet conductors together, the fixture will turn off. So, this provides a convenient way of using low voltage wiring to connect a simple switch to turn fixtures on and off without dimming.

-Hal
 
hbiss said:
I think you are a little confused.

If you were putting the dimmer in the line side supplying the fixtures then you would indeed need a 120 volt dimmer capable of handling 1000W.

But you are using fixtures that have 0-10V dimming. You would use a 0-10V low voltage dimmer connected to the gray/violet leads. A 0-10V dimmer does not connect to line voltage. You can use CL2 wiring or luminary cable that has the line voltage and the CL2 low voltage conductors all in one.

As a side note, if you leave the gray/violet conductors from a fixture unconnected and just cap them off, the fixture will be at full brightness just like any other fixture that doesn't have 0-10V dimming. However, if you connect the gray/violet conductors together, the fixture will turn off. So, this provides a convenient way of using low voltage wiring to connect a simple switch to turn fixtures on and off without dimming.

-Hal
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Hal you said you can use luminary cable(which I'm familiar with) for the switch but you also said the switch would not get line voltage.
 
hbiss said:
I think you are a little confused.

If you were putting the dimmer in the line side supplying the fixtures then you would indeed need a 120 volt dimmer capable of handling 1000W.

But you are using fixtures that have 0-10V dimming. You would use a 0-10V low voltage dimmer connected to the gray/violet leads. A 0-10V dimmer does not connect to line voltage. You can use CL2 wiring or luminary cable that has the line voltage and the CL2 low voltage conductors all in one.

As a side note, if you leave the gray/violet conductors from a fixture unconnected and just cap them off, the fixture will be at full brightness just like any other fixture that doesn't have 0-10V dimming. However, if you connect the gray/violet conductors together, the fixture will turn off. So, this provides a convenient way of using low voltage wiring to connect a simple switch to turn fixtures on and off without dimming.

-Hal
Click to expand...
They actually go to whatever setting programmed from the factory, usually around 10%, unless ordered to go to 0% from the factory. Residential fixtures may go to 0% though.
 
I have a situation that a office has an occupancy sensor switch existing and wants a 0-10v dimmer installed to control 2 new 0-10v dimmable fixtures. Can I just fish 18-2 to the dimmer and tie into the fixtures. Or do I have to try and fish luminare cable down the wall.
 
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