11/32 Inch quick change adapter?

TwoBlocked

TwoBlocked

Senior Member
Location
Bradford County, PA
Occupation
Industrial Electrician
So we do a lot of 3/8"-16 drilling and tapping for installing grounding servit posts. Saw that Champion has a combo bit for quick change impact guns. So I bought a few to try them out. Turns out that for their 3/8 inch drill/tap, the quick change hex shaft is 11/32 inch, not the usual 1/4 inch !!! Never heard of such a thing ...

Any idea where to find an adapter so I can use this bit in a 1/4 inch impact gun? Yeah, I know, I can put it in an impact drill or use a 1/4' quick change with a drill chuck, but that kinda defeats the purpose of having a bit that is quick change to start with.
 
TwoBlocked said:
So we do a lot of 3/8"-16 drilling and tapping for installing grounding servit posts. Saw that Champion has a combo bit for quick change impact guns. So I bought a few to try them out. Turns out that for their 3/8 inch drill/tap, the quick change hex shaft is 11/32 inch, not the usual 1/4 inch !!! Never heard of such a thing ...

Any idea where to find an adapter so I can use this bit in a 1/4 inch impact gun? Yeah, I know, I can put it in an impact drill or use a 1/4' quick change with a drill chuck, but that kinda defeats the purpose of having a bit that is quick change to start with.
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Never saw one myself. Maybe use an 11/32" socket?
 
TwoBlocked said:
Yes, but the tool is shaped just like a 1/4" quick change bit, only 11/32". But what in the heck would it quick change into? (Uh, it's the weekend. Surely to be some "quick change into ... " comments)
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I have no idea, but I would just put a drop of super glue in an 11/32" socket and be done. That way it would come out in the future easy enough to replace and you wouldn't have to go looking for any specialty tool like an oddball quick change.
 
TwoBlocked said:
Yes, but the tool is shaped just like a 1/4" quick change bit, only 11/32". But what in the heck would it quick change into? (Uh, it's the weekend. Surely to be some "quick change into ... " comments)
Click to expand...
Could it be a 9mm hex instead, as inferred in post 3?
 
Well, I got a 1/4" quick change impact and also a 3/8" square drive impact. I ordered a couple 3/8" drive 11/32 deep impact sockets, and we'll see. I don't really want to set this up with the more powerful 3/8" impact gun, though. See, I get different "helpers" that aren't provided / don't have their own tools. They break a lot of stuff ...
 
For my drill-N- taps I use a 1/2" Jacobs keyed chuck, and don't tighten it, fully tight. which allows the bit to spin, if it binds on the chips, in the hardened chuck jaws, preventing breakage of the expensive tap, off in the expensive work piece.
I don't use impact tools for drilling and tapping. The tooling is too expensive for that kind of treatment.

I have used Regal drill-n-taps for many years with this method, they are hard and brittle and will break easily if driven abusively, but can last a very long time if used with care and a few drops of cutting oil.

I would expect that Champion ones jump up to the 11/32" shank at the 3/8-16 size and above, is because the 1/4" quick change hex shank would break off at the reduced shank area, in the chuck, with the torque that is required.

I used to break the standard drive ones off when using them, till I learned to use the drill chuck as the torque limiter. Especially on the smaller sizes.
I haven't broke one off in several years, once I learned to use the keyed chuck for torque control.


This is another set I have to adapt taps to square drive components for extra reach or tight spaces. They have an internal O-ring for tap retention. Could be useful if you wanted to use your 3/8" impact to drive your taps.

www.lislecorp.com

70500 Tap Socket Set

For Use in Restricted Areas.
www.lislecorp.com www.lislecorp.com
 
MTW said:
For my drill-N- taps I use a 1/2" Jacobs keyed chuck, and don't tighten it, fully tight. which allows the bit to spin, if it binds on the chips, in the hardened chuck jaws, preventing breakage of the expensive tap, off in the expensive work piece.
I don't use impact tools for drilling and tapping. The tooling is too expensive for that kind of treatment.

I have used Regal drill-n-taps for many years with this method, they are hard and brittle and will break easily if driven abusively, but can last a very long time if used with care and a few drops of cutting oil.

I would expect that Champion ones jump up to the 11/32" shank at the 3/8-16 size and above, is because the 1/4" quick change hex shank would break off at the reduced shank area, in the chuck, with the torque that is required.

I used to break the standard drive ones off when using them, till I learned to use the drill chuck as the torque limiter. Especially on the smaller sizes.
I haven't broke one off in several years, once I learned to use the keyed chuck for torque control.


This is another set I have to adapt taps to square drive components for extra reach or tight spaces. They have an internal O-ring for tap retention. Could be useful if you wanted to use your 3/8" impact to drive your taps.

www.lislecorp.com

70500 Tap Socket Set

For Use in Restricted Areas.
www.lislecorp.com www.lislecorp.com
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Thanks, it does get me to thinking.

Like, what's worse than breaking a tap in a hole? Breaking it and you can't get it out! That's one reason I was willing to get the 3/8" drill-n-taps with a 1/4" shank. I would expect that when it breaks, it would do so at the shank, and leave enough tap to get it out of the hole. Then to find out that they went up a size on the shank - jokes on me ! Hahaha !

Yes, taps are expensive, but the real expense is the time of a tech in the gas industry when he finally gets to a site and has a tool in his hand. Drives me crazy when a guy gets to that point and then starts fussing around.

Something I remember seeing is using a hand drill with a torque limiter. But an impact with different settings can do that too.

What I'd REALLY like to do is get away from the servit posts and use compression rings to terminate the grounding wires and install them with self-threading bolts. It just isn't how it's done ...
 
I tried to help, but I can't fix what help you use. Likely neither will any tooling if they are unwilling to become proficient at it.
The only fix I know for that is, making them supply their own tooling, and giving them a set price for the job at hand.
Labor and tap extractor tooling is likely to be even more expensive.
 
MTW said:
I tried to help, but I can't fix what help you use. Likely neither will any tooling if they are unwilling to become proficient at it.
The only fix I know for that is, making them supply their own tooling, and giving them a set price for the job at hand.
Labor and tap extractor tooling is likely to be even more expensive.
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Sometimes the answer is to schedule the tasks to give them jobs that don't matter too much if they screw up. I think some guys, if you put them in a round room with a bowling ball would: mate with it, break it, and lose it!
 
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Did a couple holes with the Champion 3/8" drill-n-tap. What worked well was a battery operated hand drill on slow, but with the hammer drill selected. Didn't feel it was straining of binding or anything.

I still wonder what the heck this 11/32" quick change shank is all about.
 
TwoBlocked said:
Did a couple holes with the Champion 3/8" drill-n-tap. What worked well was a battery operated hand drill on slow, but with the hammer drill selected. Didn't feel it was straining of binding or anything.

I still wonder what the heck this 11/32" quick change shank is all about.
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Hammer drill setting is definitely not a good idea for drilling or taping metal. Its designed for masonry.
 
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