120/240V Safety Switch with Neutral

[Npstewart]

A friend of mine called me for some help to wire a safety switch (Pull out type) that powers a 120v pool pump (its an older pump).

Most of the safety switches say "240 volt" on the shelf, but there was a single one that said "120/240". He bought that one but called me first. I never really seen a safety switch labeled as 120/240 so I asked him to open it to see if there was a neutral bus isolated from the case and ground bus but it was sealed so couldn't open it.

I started to look into the code to see if this was mentioned but couldn't find anything. With that said, I don't see why it wouldn't work to just hook up the incoming neutral to the "Load" and the neutral to the pump on the "Line" terminal.

There's a single copper plate that connects the loads and the pull out is designed to disconnect everything simultaneously, even if you were to pull at an angle. Essentially it can only be inserted directly straight into the safety switch.

Just curious if this is in the code anywhere so I know for future reference and to satisfy curiosity.


PS: As I was typing this I came across NEC 430.105. Pretty sure its legal...

 

[jap]

I never break a neutral in a disconnect.

JAP>

A friend of mine called me for some help to wire a safety switch (Pull out type) that powers a 120v pool pump (its an older pump).

Most of the safety switches say "240 volt" on the shelf, but there was a single one that said "120/240". He bought that one but called me first. I never really seen a safety switch labeled as 120/240 so I asked him to open it to see if there was a neutral bus isolated from the case and ground bus but it was sealed so couldn't open it.

I started to look into the code to see if this was mentioned but couldn't find anything. With that said, I don't see why it wouldn't work to just hook up the incoming neutral to the "Load" and the neutral to the pump on the "Line" terminal.

There's a single copper plate that connects the loads and the pull out is designed to disconnect everything simultaneously, even if you were to pull at an angle. Essentially it can only be inserted directly straight into the safety switch.

Just curious if this is in the code anywhere so I know for future reference and to satisfy curiosity.


PS: As I was typing this I came across NEC 430.105. Pretty sure its legal...

And why would you want to do that?

JAP>

 

[Npstewart]

He ended up installing a motor rated toggle switch. The question is just so I know for the future, and because im curious why they make and advertise a safety switch rated for 120/240 if you cannot use it for 120v, unless you switched the neutral.

 

[jap]

I wouldn't switch the neutral at all.

Was just questioning landing the incoming neutral on the load and the neutral to the pump on the line.

JAP>

 

[retirede]

He ended up installing a motor rated toggle switch. The question is just so I know for the future, and because im curious why they make and advertise a safety switch rated for 120/240 if you cannot use it for 120v, unless you switched the neutral.

You are not required to switch the neutral. What leads you to think otherwise?

 

[Eddie702]

What is wrong with switching the neutral? If I recall correctly you can switch the neutral as long as the ungrounded conductors are also switched.

 

[Little Bill]

You could wire it to switch the neutral as it would disconnect at the same time as the hot. You could also just tie the neutrals together and just put the hot line/load on the disconnect.

 

[ptonsparky]

I see no reason why you should not disconnect the neutral of a 120 volt, in this case, motor load.

 

[augie47]

May not b the case in his switch but I note in some manufacturer catalogs a switch with a 120/240 rating has a neutral bar (isolated) where as the switches with a 240 rating (only) have no neutral bar.

 

[jap]

I was always taught, "Though shall not switch the neutral unless specifically required to".

Jap>

 

[xformer]

May not b the case in his switch but I note in some manufacturer catalogs a switch with a 120/240 rating has a neutral bar (isolated) where as the switches with a 240 rating (only) have no neutral bar.

Cant all electric equipment rated for 240V be used on systems of less than 240V? I know this could be a waste of money but isnt is allowed?

 

[jap]

Cant all electric equipment rated for 240V be used on systems of less than 240V? I know this could be a waste of money but isnt is allowed?

I think it may be an option offered to get it with or without an insulated neutral bar.

Jap.

 

[ptonsparky]

I was always taught, "Though shall not switch the neutral unless specifically required to".

Jap>

MWBC would be the main reason, otherwise switching the hot and neutral at the same time should not be an issue.

 

[jap]

MWBC would be the main reason, otherwise switching the hot and neutral at the same time should not be an issue.

Switching the neutral is not common practice.

Not even on a MWBC.

Oh well,,, to each his own.

Jap>

 

[ptonsparky]

Switching the neutral is not common practice.

Not even on a MWBC.

Oh well,,, to each his own.

Jap>

It is not a common practice. Especially not on a MWBC.

Disconnecting both leads to the OPs motor will not cause an issue of any kind.

 

[jap]

It is not a common practice. Especially not on a MWBC.

Disconnecting both leads to the OPs motor will not cause an issue of any kind.

Are you saying most are disconnecting the neutral on MWBC's ?

I beg to differ.

Jap>

 

[Little Bill]

Are you saying most are disconnecting the neutral on MWBC's ?

I beg to differ.

Jap>

That's not how I read/took him.

 

[jap]

That's not how I read/took him.

Me either after I read back.

I think we're on the same page.

Jap>

 

[jap]

I'd rather someone default to never switching a neutral, and, only switch a neutral when it is required to be switched.

Rather than switch a neutral as their common practice when there is no need or reasoning to do so.

Jap>