120/277v ballast

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jap

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I've been asked if an advanced intellavolt Ballast for an indoor flourescent troffer Fixtures could be wired at 208v.(2 phases to the input of the ballast).
I didnt see why not but,Being that I have always been in the situation to wire indoor fixtures 120 volt or 277 volt this was an odd question to me. I called the Advance Rep and they stated that it would be fine to use any voltage between 120 and 277,(208 or 240 inlcuded). The amperage chart on the ballast only indicated amperage draws at 120v or 277v not the other two.
Generally all outdoor lighting (HID or Otherwise) is wired 120,277,208,240 or 480 etc. but most indoor lighting I have ever wired was 120 or 277v not 208 or 240.
I dont know that I have ever wired an indoor flourescent fixture at 208 or 240. that wasn't HID. Is this odd to any one else ?
 
It sounds like your basic question is whether it's okay for both line conductors to be energized, meaning that the white wire is not connected to a grounded conductor.

I think it would work, but to be safe, I'd ask the rep for anything in print that says this is okay. There is a difference between "120v or 177v" and "120v through 277v."
 
The Ballast indicates 120 through 277v its just that I've never wired indoor troffers at any voltage other than 120 or 277v which both have neutrals.
But on HID Fixtures Indoor or out I have used all voltages to energize them.
 
LarryFine said:
Where would we be without our mad scientists toiling away in their laboratories day and night? ;)
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Mad/ crazy-yes:) scientist/ student-yes:) Tried 240v this afternoon and it worked also. Monday, I will access to 240/120 High leg delta and I am am going to test that combo also. Yes, I have too much time on my hands and I am bored.:grin:
 
Jumper, Are you using the same ballast for all these tests? I have heard that you can use a "used" ballast on the same or higher voltage but, if you put a ballast that was "burnt in" on 277V on a 120V, it would no longer work??? How about testing that theory while your at it?
 
While your testing stuff, try a straight 277 mag ballast on 240. A guy told me he'd been lighting his shop for years like that so I tried it one time. It worked.
 
Yeah, multi-volts work on any voltage but they don't work great on any voltage. We started using them for large retrofit jobs a few years ago and were unhappy with failure rate. Maybe they've improved. The multi's for can lights were really bad. Our local supplier took them off the shelf. That was about 3 years ago.
 
bobsherwood said:
Jumper, Are you using the same ballast for all these tests? I have heard that you can use a "used" ballast on the same or higher voltage but, if you put a ballast that was "burnt in" on 277V on a 120V, it would no longer work??? How about testing that theory while your at it?
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Two different ballasts, but I will test that scenario also. I will energize the fixtures for a day or so and then swap voltages

LarryFine said:
See to it, Igor! ;)
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Yes, Herr Doktor!:D

Ken In NJ said:
I assume that the ballast would also work on a straight 208 high leg, with a neutral ?
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Will know next week. Maybe a way to use those empty panel spaces in a 240/120 panel.

K2X said:
While your testing stuff, try a straight 277 mag ballast on 240. A guy told me he'd been lighting his shop for years like that so I tried it one time. It worked.
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Sorry, maybe later. The run of tests is on multi voltage electronic flourescent ballasts.
 
K2X said:
While your testing stuff, try a straight 277 mag ballast on 240. A guy told me he'd been lighting his shop for years like that so I tried it one time. It worked.
Click to expand...

I have seen it done on a 175W merc, does work just not well IMO as they seem to be dimmer then they should. (Killark haz. loc. fixtures in a scrapyard shop).
 
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