2 outlets on single 220v circuit

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rookie4now

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I have a client that is removing a washer and gas dryer. They are installing a Bosch Axxis washer which indicates 12a 220V 3-prong, and a dryer that indicates 220v 12a 4-prong. It would be fairly easy to add a second outlet onto the existing 30a circuit and have one outlet for the dryer and one for the washer on the same circuit. The only problem I see is that the individual appliances may want 15a protection. Any thoughts?

thank you.
 
rookie4now said:
I have a client that is removing a washer and gas dryer. They are installing a Bosch Axxis washer which indicates 12a 220V 3-prong, and a dryer that indicates 220v 12a 4-prong. It would be fairly easy to add a second outlet onto the existing 30a circuit and have one outlet for the dryer and one for the washer on the same circuit. The only problem I see is that the individual appliances may want 15a protection. Any thoughts?

thank you.
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As you said, the individual appliances may [most likely] would require 15- to 20A maximum OCP.

The two receptacles to be installed for this application would both have to be rated 30A per 210.21 [Table 210.21(B)(3)] - now you'd prob. have to change out the cord caps to match up the receptacle(s) - but back to the OCP....mfr. would prob. require max OCP of 15/20.
 
rookie4now said:
I have a client that is removing a washer and gas dryer. They are installing a Bosch Axxis washer which indicates 12a 220V 3-prong, and a dryer that indicates 220v 12a 4-prong. It would be fairly easy to add a second outlet onto the existing 30a circuit and have one outlet for the dryer and one for the washer on the same circuit. ....
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I can't help with your question any more that dana has, but I do have a curiousity question:

With the two appliances showing "220V", are they also 50 Hz?

Pretty rare to see a nameplate with "220V" on anyting made for the US market in the last 50 years.

ice
 
iceworm said:
I can't help with your question any more that dana has, but I do have a curiousity question:

With the two appliances showing "220V", are they also 50 Hz?

Pretty rare to see a nameplate with "220V" on anyting made for the US market in the last 50 years.

ice
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I'm using 220 generically. The actual range is 208-240.
 
You could use the existing circuit as a feeder to a new panel and add the outlets with appropriate over-current protection.
 
augie47 said:
You could use the existing circuit as a feeder to a new panel and add the outlets with appropriate over-current protection.
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That would be a good suggestion but if the washer dryer is in a finished room it may not be a suitable one aesthetically. If it is easy to add a circuit then why not do it right.
 
augie47 said:
You could use the existing circuit as a feeder to a new panel and add the outlets with appropriate over-current protection.
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This may be an easier option depending on what exists to run a new cable. Also the existing 30 amp circuit would need to be 4 wire.
 
dana1028 said:
The two receptacles to be installed for this application would both have to be rated 30A per 210.21 [Table 210.21(B)(3)]
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Remember reading about 220v receptacles in England with build it breakers, but no longer comes up in google.
 
If there is an existing washer & gas dryer, and as stated a 30 amp receptacle then why not just change existing receptacles to 220 3 wire & 220 4 wire (again if the existing 30 amp is a 4 wire feed) ...
 
Just make the circuit a feeder.

Local overcurrent protection can be easily provided using a Square D QO200TR disconnect ($12) and replacing the included switch with a QO215 breaker ($8) at each appliance.
 
Are you sure you need 2 circuits for this equipment? All of the Bosch units I have run across have a 14-30 (30 amp 120/240 volt) cord and plug on the dryer. On the back of the dryer there is a receptacle to plug the washing machine into. These units are desigend to be installed in existing laundry areas with out modifications to the exsiting electrical.

I just looked at all 6 units at the Bosch web site. They all state that the washing machine plugs into the dryer. The dryer requires a 30 amp 4-wire receptacle.
 
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renosteinke said:
Just make the circuit a feeder.

Local overcurrent protection can be easily provided using a Square D QO200TR disconnect ($12) and replacing the included switch with a QO215 breaker ($8) at each appliance.
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If you alter the disconnect, then I think it wouldn't be a listed device anymore.

That is what I was told the last time I tried to do exactly this.

I'll bet Square D sells a device with overcurrent protection, and would rather sell you that.
 
Why not just add a fused disconnect (the kind that uses cartridge fuses) for each device ? This wouldn't require altering any device. So the existing 30-amp circuit is run to both disconnects, and then use 15 amp fuses in each disconnect. It seems silly to me to run a new circuit when there's already enough copper going from the main panel to the laundry area. The only issue I see with this is if the washer or dryer specifies a "breaker size" as opposed to "breaker or fuse size" or "fuse size" then (as I understand it) you've got to have a breaker rather than a fuse.
 
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